I'm close to pulling the trigger to order the parts for Zaph's all metal system but have a few questions first...
1.) I see these are very nearly the same as his SR71's, Which version is better and what are the differences?
2.) Instead of placing these speakers on stands I was going to make 10" speaker boxes to set them on, to give the system more oomph down low. The plan is to make the monitor boxes sealed (~8L) and put the H1209's in a sealed box as well (~40L). They match the rest of the system cosmetically (assuming I make the "all metal system"). In doing research I see a few people really like these in sealed boxes.
3.) the monitors will be bi-amped with the subs so the crossovers will be electronic (~100Hz).
I'd appreciate any input on this before I order all the parts. So...
- does this sound like a reasonable plan?
- any changes you would make?
- am I being an idiot?
1.) I see these are very nearly the same as his SR71's, Which version is better and what are the differences?
2.) Instead of placing these speakers on stands I was going to make 10" speaker boxes to set them on, to give the system more oomph down low. The plan is to make the monitor boxes sealed (~8L) and put the H1209's in a sealed box as well (~40L). They match the rest of the system cosmetically (assuming I make the "all metal system"). In doing research I see a few people really like these in sealed boxes.
3.) the monitors will be bi-amped with the subs so the crossovers will be electronic (~100Hz).
I'd appreciate any input on this before I order all the parts. So...
- does this sound like a reasonable plan?
- any changes you would make?
- am I being an idiot?
Hi Ryan,
I have built a set of L18's and they are very good speakers. I'm not sure why you would want to modify the design. Essentially you would be building a new set of speakers and would need to adjust everything.
I have not built the other set of speakers you mentioned so I can't offer a comparison. I'll just repeat that the L18's are very good and I am quite pleased with them.
A picture is here:
Good luck and I hope it works out for you!
Regards,
I have built a set of L18's and they are very good speakers. I'm not sure why you would want to modify the design. Essentially you would be building a new set of speakers and would need to adjust everything.
I have not built the other set of speakers you mentioned so I can't offer a comparison. I'll just repeat that the L18's are very good and I am quite pleased with them.
A picture is here:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Good luck and I hope it works out for you!
Regards,
Ed,
Thanks for the reply. I kind of thought better about this, like you say it's essentially a 'new' speaker and I'd have to adjust everything and right now that is over my head. I wanted to add the 10" to that set because I didn't think a single 6.5" driver would satisfy me for cranking some hard rock once in a while. I decided to go with his waveguide TMM's, which I have been eyeing for quite some time. They sound closer to what I'm looking for and I don't need to reinvent anything.
I think I'm better off making a design exactly form plans the first time through so I can hopefully learn from that and make more educated decisions for myself in the future.
BTW. nice looking speakers... I gotta learn how to veneer!
Ryan
Thanks for the reply. I kind of thought better about this, like you say it's essentially a 'new' speaker and I'd have to adjust everything and right now that is over my head. I wanted to add the 10" to that set because I didn't think a single 6.5" driver would satisfy me for cranking some hard rock once in a while. I decided to go with his waveguide TMM's, which I have been eyeing for quite some time. They sound closer to what I'm looking for and I don't need to reinvent anything.
I think I'm better off making a design exactly form plans the first time through so I can hopefully learn from that and make more educated decisions for myself in the future.
BTW. nice looking speakers... I gotta learn how to veneer!
Ryan
I agree, this is a sweet soundimg speaker.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I , too am building the all metal 2 way. I'm about 95% done, The box is finished ,the xo are assembled and mounted to the box, the tweeter is mounted as well as the terminals, But I only lack the woofers, Which are also ready to mount as soon as they arrive.
It is generally accepted , But not always true , that metal cone, being much stiffer than paper and plastic , have better bass and midbass reproduction and can handle more power. This is why I choose to build this instead of the sr71, Out of curiousity.
Well, I sure would find out soon.
It is generally accepted , But not always true , that metal cone, being much stiffer than paper and plastic , have better bass and midbass reproduction and can handle more power. This is why I choose to build this instead of the sr71, Out of curiousity.
Well, I sure would find out soon.
I have built both the SR71 and the L18 design. They are both very good speakers, but slightly different. The L18 I think is a little more detailed, and is a little better with rock. The SR71 does better with bottom end (I think) and is a little smoother and less forward. Better for background music than the L18 design. Below are pics of both:
s7horton said:I have built both the SR71 and the L18 design. They are both very good speakers, but slightly different. The L18 I think is a little more detailed, and is a little better with rock. The SR71 does better with bottom end (I think) and is a little smoother and less forward. Better for background music than the L18 design. Below are pics of both:
I'm surprised that you say the SR71 has better bottom end. The L18 is very solid down low and I certainly don't find them to be forward. This is a very good design for sure.
Wow , Those are very nice looking speakers, Truely high end lookind, I wish I had a wood finishing skills like yours.
I made my Own box on my L18/tbfcg too, THough my wood working skill is good, The finish is paint and dont look even remotely good as yours, The color of the box on my L18/Tbfcg is deliberately irritating orange. Will post pics on these board as soon as it is done.
I made my Own box on my L18/tbfcg too, THough my wood working skill is good, The finish is paint and dont look even remotely good as yours, The color of the box on my L18/Tbfcg is deliberately irritating orange. Will post pics on these board as soon as it is done.
I built 5 L18 last year to go with my new 7.1 receiver.
Great project, like them a lot. I have no carpentry skills but managed to finish them with veneer. Look ok, they are my 4 foot speakers, from at least 4 feet they look great.
I had a pair of 30 year old speakers, 2 feet tall with 10" woofers and tweets in them. Set the 2 front L18's on them, disconnected the tweets and used the back 2 receiver channels to drive them as subs.
I'll probably replace these "sub" drivers with either real subs, maybe daytons, or maybe L26's.
In any case, with these make shift subs, movie watching is a whole new experience. Music, depends upon what I'm listening too, but I find I leave these "subs" on all the time.
Good luck with your project.
Great project, like them a lot. I have no carpentry skills but managed to finish them with veneer. Look ok, they are my 4 foot speakers, from at least 4 feet they look great.
I had a pair of 30 year old speakers, 2 feet tall with 10" woofers and tweets in them. Set the 2 front L18's on them, disconnected the tweets and used the back 2 receiver channels to drive them as subs.
I'll probably replace these "sub" drivers with either real subs, maybe daytons, or maybe L26's.
In any case, with these make shift subs, movie watching is a whole new experience. Music, depends upon what I'm listening too, but I find I leave these "subs" on all the time.
Good luck with your project.
I'm sure if you put the L18 specs into WinISD the max SPL (based on Xmax I'm sure) would give you a good idea. Only a guess but I'm sure this design would use full BSC or close to it so subtract about 6dB off what WinISD tells you. Mind you this would be for physical/electrical limitations of the driver.... what compression and distortion tells your ears may be quite a bit lower than what number you get with WinISD.
On the Zaph page there are frequency response graphs. Based on that I judge some 82dB, and this is confirmed by the l-pad on the tweeter (some 9dB of attenuation). Max SPL is based on the base efficiency (82dB) and the input voltage, you run out of xmax at 95dB and hit the max excursion at slightly more than 100dB.
Ralf
Ralf
Learn what BSC is. Quoting from the Zaph page: This crossover has about 5 dB of baffle step compensation. So 88 - 5 = 83dB. This speaker is meant to be on stands far from walls and boundaries.
The tube correction circuit does nothing on the SPL and only flattens the impedance, and is useful for valve amplifiers only (for solid state you can leave it out). Easy load for an amplifier usually is referred to the phase of the impedance instead of the module of the impedance itself.
Ralf
The tube correction circuit does nothing on the SPL and only flattens the impedance, and is useful for valve amplifiers only (for solid state you can leave it out). Easy load for an amplifier usually is referred to the phase of the impedance instead of the module of the impedance itself.
Ralf
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