Hello gang,
First time poster, short time follower.
Sorry for the newbie questions, but hopefully someone here would be able to help me out with tips on starting my first DIY projects.
I need a better sound system for my computer then the current Creative POS 2.1 speakers that it has. Mainly listening to music and some light playing around with Logic audio. I've been thinking of building a Gainclone and making some nearfield monitors builds from this site.
Other route would be to buy the Behringer B2030A for 269EUR. I don't mind spending a bit more on the DIY if it means I end up with a better sounding system than the Behringers. Have heard the older Genelecs where these were copied from and they're a tad too analytical for my liking in terms of enjoying music.
So, how well can my DIY spent money compare against the Behringers in terms of sound quality? Don't want a separate sub, so would like something with a semi-decent low range. Also, if you can suggest speaker plans that I should look at, that would be much appreciated. They will be on my desk, so very short listening range.
Thanks for your input!
First time poster, short time follower.
Sorry for the newbie questions, but hopefully someone here would be able to help me out with tips on starting my first DIY projects.
I need a better sound system for my computer then the current Creative POS 2.1 speakers that it has. Mainly listening to music and some light playing around with Logic audio. I've been thinking of building a Gainclone and making some nearfield monitors builds from this site.
Other route would be to buy the Behringer B2030A for 269EUR. I don't mind spending a bit more on the DIY if it means I end up with a better sounding system than the Behringers. Have heard the older Genelecs where these were copied from and they're a tad too analytical for my liking in terms of enjoying music.
So, how well can my DIY spent money compare against the Behringers in terms of sound quality? Don't want a separate sub, so would like something with a semi-decent low range. Also, if you can suggest speaker plans that I should look at, that would be much appreciated. They will be on my desk, so very short listening range.
Thanks for your input!
How big can the speakers get? For near-field use a 1-way will have significant advantages over a multi-way (ie you can't get far enuff away from a multi-way for it to integrate)
I have designed the uFonken specifically for computer use. By themselves they are bass shy... if you can afford the room, the mFonken (about the size of LS3/6A) has better bass.
As to amps i'd suggest that a gainclone would clean up on the Beringer (that going completely on the perception of Beringers attitude of quantity over quality)
For either of the speakers i mentioned 5-20W would be sufficient (the little one needing more power)
dave
I have designed the uFonken specifically for computer use. By themselves they are bass shy... if you can afford the room, the mFonken (about the size of LS3/6A) has better bass.
As to amps i'd suggest that a gainclone would clean up on the Beringer (that going completely on the perception of Beringers attitude of quantity over quality)
For either of the speakers i mentioned 5-20W would be sufficient (the little one needing more power)
dave
I too would suggest the mFonkens and would definately pair it with an amp6basic from www.41hz.com. For computer/general use it would be very hard to beat the sound quality of such a system at any reasonable price or size.
I to am interested in making some speakers for my computer. I have been looking at purchasing the M-Audio AV40 but a DIY set is more up my ally. I would rather have a set i built myself then bought off a shelf.
But heres where my noobness comes in. Ive been an installer in the Car Audio industry for 6years now and i still dont understand y the use of a tweeter with a midrange isnt more commonly used on this site. Do the fullrange setups really sounds that much better than a midrange with a tweeter?
Most of my listening is mp3 quality while im surfing the net or playing xbox. But im an audiophile at heart and am missing that beautiful full sound while im sitting at my computer.
Just wanna tag along with this post if thats ok.
But heres where my noobness comes in. Ive been an installer in the Car Audio industry for 6years now and i still dont understand y the use of a tweeter with a midrange isnt more commonly used on this site. Do the fullrange setups really sounds that much better than a midrange with a tweeter?
Most of my listening is mp3 quality while im surfing the net or playing xbox. But im an audiophile at heart and am missing that beautiful full sound while im sitting at my computer.
Just wanna tag along with this post if thats ok.
tigh4life said:
All the fullrange converts will say yes (even if they add a tweeter way high up (ie like most of the car co-axes, just look at the size of the cap crossing over the tweeter and do the math)
The multi-way guys will say a midbass + tweeter is better (many of them haven't heard a good FR (but then of course i'd say that, i'm a Fullranger -- althou i worked hifi for a long well, and am well familiar with and have owned many multiways)
In this case we are talking about nearfield where you just can't get far enuff away from a multiway for the 2 sepaerate acoustic sources to gel...
dave
Try a pair of MarkAudio Alpair 10 drivers (in Finland www.audioparts.fi is selling them). They are quite pricey though. TB W4-1320SB (or whatever is latest version) also look fine (lack a little bit in upper registers though, maybe not a problem in comp use).
ebogga said:
No don't do that, you'll get reflection from the desktop and a notch in FR.
Better build tilted box with the front tilted back at some angle (adjustable with a pair of screw adjusters like the ones used with table legs would be even better). The driver should be quite close to desktop, though you better put a mouse matt or something in front of it to damp the reflections. Table top will also give an extra dB or two boost for the lowest frequencies.
E: Regarding drivers also this new TB might do the job:
http://www.spectrumaudio.de/breit/tangband/tangbandW51611SA.html
planet10 said:
So let me understand this correctly. If my budget was only $30-40 i could build a better sounding speaker than the AV-40's?
The ol Delco paper cone x9's. Hook one up to 120v and see what it does then. Thatll brighten up your day!
I liked to see peoples face when i show them what exactly a bose speaker is made of and why the dealership charges them $400 to replace a single speaker!
tigh4life said:
The speaker... you'd still need an amp (but even a $10 thrift store find is likely WAY better).
$200 retail wit amps, so they are likely paying less than $10 in total for the drivers. Looks to be a thin injected moulded cabinet, with money spent on jewlery... as long as you paid attention to what you were doing, it shouldn't be hard.
And don't you dare connect one of those GM Delcos to 120VAC... it would be a shame to let the smoke out of such a nice driver (everytime i find a air at a garage sale for $2 or $5, i think some schmuck likely spent over a $100 to replace them with some tri-axial that didn't sound as good)
dave
planet10 said:
Wow, so I'm not the only one who thinks those old delcos arn't bad? lol, my first speaker I ever built back in highschool was using a pair of those 6x9's, mainly because it's what I had. The cabinet is completely the wrong size because I didn't know any better, but recently I pulled them out of storage, took the back off the cabinets, and discovered they didn't sound half bad that way! Here they are sitting on top of my Sansui 4 ways (good for playing loud!)...
-Justin
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tigh4life said:
TRhe mFonken (with FE127eN) is a giant killer (if i do say so myself) -- from our comparisons directly to a set of Rogers LS3/5A, a step above (and more efficient). The design gives up bass and a little bit of openness to get the small size. If you could live with a full-size Fonken that is a step up, but it is over 4x the volume.
dave
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