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#21 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Novi, Michigan
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Crossover parts are in the mail as we speak.
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#22 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
http://www.abbotpaint.com/itemdetail...branet%204-1/2 |
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#23 |
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diyAudio Member
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Thanks, that stuff looks quite interesting. So how bad of an idea would it be to sand these things best I can for now. Seal them up, do a good but not obsessive job leveling them out, and then doing a good, but again, not obsessive job painting them the satin black, with the idea that I will go back and redo the finish better at a later date when its warmer outside and I'm less busy with school.
First, does going this route create any irreversible effects on the cabinet making a more perfect finish impossible? Second, while I know I may not be so motivated to refinish them once they are finished, is there any other reason why I can't. |
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#24 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Illinois
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I went a bit of a different route when it came to filling in the pocket screw holes. They make hole plugs, the common brand being Kreg. Glued these in, sand flush and the fill and sand before paint.
My finish was quite different than normal. I used the truck bed liner. I didn't spend nearly the time as normal preping for a painted finish. I would recommend to anyone else considering the truck bed liner to spend the proper time for surface prep. |
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#25 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Front Row Center
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My 2 cents ,,
Formica , yes Formica the cabinet , this will give you a perfect flat surface to paint .. You can sand edges to be flushed with yours. then prime with a poly finish , sem-prime for eg, you will have a rock hard surface ... Sand and then paint with dupont for eg. This will give you a perfect finish and it is the most cost effective way to do painted finishes , like a Piano finish ... Regards , |
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#26 |
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diyAudio Member
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I would think this would suffer from the same problems as the wood idea. First, it won't bend around the roundovers on the speaker cabinet, so you wouldn't be covering the most important area. Second, it won't adhere to the cabinet any better, and thus will still benefit from a vacuum press. In the event that it does start to come lose, I would also think its resonance would be less than desirable.
As mentioned earlier though, it was just a thought on my part, and I won't be doing any of that. Right now I'm just taking the time to fill all the holes and imperfections before sanding again. I've been using bondo in the large openings, including repairing the damaged panels. I'm using the surfacing putty for the smaller and finer imperfections such as the glue joints around all the corners. While they were all pretty tight, I figure it can't hurt to spread some putty around all the edges to get them as clean and smooth as possible before sealing. |
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#27 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Front Row Center
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Formica will bond well and won't bleed like veneer , even foil back veneer does this to a degree .
In your case the formica should have been applied , then the box edges would have been beveled after applying the formica. To formica , would have saved you tons of " body Work " and would have required less sealing to paint... remember to scuff and sand where it meets your rounded edges. The sem prime will seal and build up nicely for you sand to a perfect finish . Granted where you are now with your beveled edges and " body work " you are better off just poly-sem priming the wood , sand and paint , as you have already started in this direction .. Formica Finish is what used to be done in the industry to speed up painted finishes and yes pre-laminated MDF was used to do this in construction . |
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#28 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Paris
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Hi
Here are some advices on how to fix a veneer on a cabinet with rounded edges: http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...ackyard&page=7 These are some sort of JBL L300 clones Unfortunately the veneer "direction" it has to be the same as the rounded edges, so you cannot have all the edges rounded.
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#29 |
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diyAudio Member
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putting veneer on rounded edges like that is no problem. This speaker has every edge rounded over creating spherical corners. It's this "Ball" at each corner that can't be readily veneered. Look at my pictures to see what I mean. It's really not a big deal though.
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#30 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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One way is to mount hardwood lists on all edges, sand it even, then do the veneering, and make the roundings after that...but not so easy with those large rounding
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| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| F1 or F2...which should I build for an Abbey | audionut | Full Range | 3 | 28th June 2009 03:56 AM |
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