Matt's Gedlee Summa Abbey Kit Build

[gedlee]

Mike

Did the shipping boxes show any damage? How do you think the corners got damaged?

[sploo]

Originally posted by gedlee
I recommend epoxy too. But the West system is just a brand, go to US Composites http://www.shopmaninc.com/. They have a great epoxy at a very reasonable price. Use a microballon or talc filler and you can make a paste which works very very well.

Yeah, they (US Composites) do some great stuff - but I think the shipping to the UK would be somewhat pricey. Epoxy is an amazing and versatile product, but d*mn it's messy to use. Maybe I'm just messy!

Originally posted by R-Carpenter
Have any of you guys consider or tried Unibond 800?

From what info I can find, it looks like a good glue. Couldn't immediately find a UK outlet for it though. Story of my (DIY) life - there are so many useful and interesting products in the US that you just can't get here.

[gedlee]

I'm sure that there must be an outlet for raw epoxy in the UK somewhere. It is very messy if you don't thicken it. I always do. You can even get a paste that won't run at all. Talc works best I find. Once thickened you can apply it quit easily. Don't get the fast cure stuff though as the mixing can take some time when its thick and the thickeners seem to speed up the cure.

[djarchow]

Originally posted by gedlee


I would think that what one would want for veneer would be quite different that what one would want for joints.

Actually Unibond is a very good glue for joints as well. However so is regular Titebond. On the plus side, Unibiond makes for a very rigid glue line and has a very long open time (both of which makes it great for veneering). It also doesn't contain the water found in PVA glue which means less swelling of the joint, especially on the endgrain.

On the negative side though, it is more expensive for general woodworking compared to PVA glue, and requires a very long clamp time (4-8 hours) with lots of pressure. Not to mention it doesn't cure well below 70 degrees. Also since you have to mix the resin with a catalyst, it isn't nearly as convenient as regular PVA either.

So while Unibond does make for strong woodworking joints, it is much better suited for cold pressing veneer in a vacuum press where the rigid glue line, and long open time are much more important.

Regards,

Dennis

[a.wayne]

Originally posted by gedlee
Mike

Did the shipping boxes show any damage? How do you think the corners got damaged?

Like this !

http://break.com/index/ups-man-throws-package.html

[tinitus]

I was actually expecting he would throw it over the fence...that little drop doesnt do it...sometimes they may even run the forktruck into it...or parcels can be all over the place inside the van

[R-Carpenter]

Originally posted by djarchow


Actually Unibond is a very good glue for joints as well. However so is regular Titebond. On the plus side, Unibiond makes for a very rigid glue line and has a very long open time (both of which makes it great for veneering). It also doesn't contain the water found in PVA glue which means less swelling of the joint, especially on the endgrain.

On the negative side though, it is more expensive for general woodworking compared to PVA glue, and requires a very long clamp time (4-8 hours) with lots of pressure. Not to mention it doesn't cure well below 70 degrees. Also since you have to mix the resin with a catalyst, it isn't nearly as convenient as regular PVA either.

So while Unibond does make for strong woodworking joints, it is much better suited for cold pressing veneer in a vacuum press where the rigid glue line, and long open time are much more important.

Regards,

Dennis

Hi, Dennis.
Guys here are hell bend on having to paint miter folded and butt jointed MDF boxes, not veneer them (either because they can't, don't want to or it just can't be done nicely like in this case) and have no joint movement. This is why I suggested Unibond. It is designed for a very thin and rigid glue line.
Perhaps Dr. Gedlee will consider changing the exterior appearance of the cabinet and have a veneered version for a higher price? It would eliminate lots of work for a DIY, bring higher price and make more appealing cabinet?

[gedlee]

Originally posted by R-Carpenter
Perhaps Dr. Gedlee will consider changing the exterior appearance of the cabinet and have a veneered version for a higher price? It would eliminate lots of work for a DIY, bring higher price and make more appealing cabinet?

You know if someone wants to pay the money to do this then great, I'll bite. People are just not willing to pay extra for this kind of upgrade. People who buy my speakers are interested in the best sound, not the best appearance. Pay a premium to get a lessor sound quality? I just don't see that happening.

The thing to do if you want the cabinets in wood is to cut off the radi, and glue in a solid piece of wood. Then radius it and finish off with veneer. This is perfectly doable, I've done it. But it is not worth the extra work and cost IMO. You can only do this to the sides of course because the waveguide is not going to be veneered by anyone of only resonable capability. You have to cut the baffle from a solid piece. Again, been there, done that, won't do it again.

[bear]

pjpoes,

I sent you an email via diyaudio.com, did you get it?
Please reply via my website, if you would?

Thanks,

_-_-bear

[pjpoes]

Hey Bear, sorry, my email was wrong, an old one that is no longer current. I didn't realize I had never updated it. I will send you an email via your site.

I'm not in NY anymore either I'm afraid, I've moved to Lafayette Indiana for Graduate school, so my location is wrong too.

quick update, I have primed the cabinets inside and out with the Zinser bins. The first coat was hand painted on with a brush. It's been cold again, and I was unable to spray in the garage. Since I will be sanding it anyway, I figured it was no big deal. It worked quite well, sealing the wood and covering very well.The hardest part is the work inside.