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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 11th January 2009, 02:54 AM   #21
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Handling backed veneer (either paper or wood backed) can be easily done with the iron on method and PVA glue. Raw veneer is a different animal and will typically not work successfully with the iron on method. It requires a series of cauls and/or a vacuum press. Yellow glue works in both of these applications, if handled correctly.
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Old 11th January 2009, 03:29 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by s7horton
Handling backed veneer (either paper or wood backed) can be easily done with the iron on method and PVA glue. Raw veneer is a different animal and will typically not work successfully with the iron on method. It requires a series of cauls and/or a vacuum press. Yellow glue works in both of these applications, if handled correctly.

Depending on the type of the veneer in case of raw is chosen. Unibond 800 or Urea resign is a proper glue either way but yellow glue will do fine for most of the stable veneers like Oak or flat cut Mahogany. Maple is know to turn pink after sometime if yellow glue is used for raw veneer.
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Old 11th January 2009, 04:32 PM   #23
kyrie48 is offline kyrie48  United States
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For the "first build", I'd suggest building a couple "test boxes"... most would learn alot from just that, and as a big plus, you'll have a pair of boxes to test different drivers and combinations. Don't glue the baffle on, so you can change/build new ones if needed... use screws, clamps, whatever, to hold in place. I'd also try some different methods of removing stock from around the baffle's back where the midwoofer/woofer mounts, to allow proper "breathing". Also very important; place your test boxes up higher off the floor, so you can hear a more accurate example of what your speakers can do.
Simple stuff can often be very important for the first few builds.

TTYL, kyrie
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Old 17th March 2009, 09:16 PM   #24
badman is offline badman  United States
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Default Re: Re: oh yeah

Quote:
Originally posted by chrisb

The moisture cured polyurethane glues are definitely stronger, and have the advantage of filling small gaps, but are a messy pain in the donkey. They require careful clamping to avoid swelling, particularly in the case of large panels requiring cross bracing, as well as needing an overnight cure time if you want to avoid gummy mess when sanding off the inevitable squeeze out.

Woodworker Monthly or some other woody print rag did a glue test.

Yellow glue outperformed PU on strength.
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