now why on earth would you want to do that?
some misguided notion of time alignement perhaps
and if you do, have you anyway of quantifying the result rather than just using your ears?
may I suggest an alternative? cut a hole in the baffle and mount the tweeter on a separately mountedpeice of timber or something suitable behind it surround the opening with thick felt so you dont have any reflections off the hole edge. make the felt at least .5" thick! also bear in mind the tweeter was designed with the face plate so by removing it you may be introducing some undesirable response anomalies the only other thing I can suggest is to check out the AUDAX website I had a pair of neodium tweeters made by them which is part of their range all it is is just the dome and magnet assembly with the terminals on the back I forget the part # but it should be there, I just sold mine on ebay, I HAD good success mounting it from thr rear of the baffle firing through a hole not much bigger than the dome itself the hole was radioused all around to offer a short horn like flair to correctly load the dome from about 1.5 k through to about 10kHz where it drooped according to audax's response curve
by doing this the response flattened down nicely, much better than the others audax make with integral face plate i had the curve till a short while ago but passed it on to a fellow speaker manufacturer to use in some future model
REGARDS TO ALL, TJB
Print screen tutorial in 6 easy steps.
1. Theres a button called "print screen" on your keyboard.
2. Press it, open MS Paint, and press ctrl-v.
3. Then if it asks to make the bitmap larger, click yes.
4. Crop the relevant part of the whole picture.
5. And then click on File > save as.
6. Select jpeg or gif.
1. Theres a button called "print screen" on your keyboard.
2. Press it, open MS Paint, and press ctrl-v.
3. Then if it asks to make the bitmap larger, click yes.
4. Crop the relevant part of the whole picture.
5. And then click on File > save as.
6. Select jpeg or gif.
well...I've drawn them without the tweeter and woofer's lips overlapping, but I've didn't draw bracing either. In other words, this cabinet is not final and is open for suggestions. So please, tear it apart. This is just some thing to start from.
My goal is a moderately well damped, solid, decent looking, and simple to construct enclosure with an f3 of around 35 (which this box attains). I don't really know where to put bracing, or how to place the drivers optimally on the baffle. What I have should be fine, but if anyone has some fun tweeks, let me know.
Thanks!
-andy
My goal is a moderately well damped, solid, decent looking, and simple to construct enclosure with an f3 of around 35 (which this box attains). I don't really know where to put bracing, or how to place the drivers optimally on the baffle. What I have should be fine, but if anyone has some fun tweeks, let me know.
Thanks!
-andy
For the cleanest cut, you can use your router. Flush mount the tweeter, tape it up, and then cut the rabbet for the woofer. A carbide bit will cut right through plastic or aluminum. Depending on the tweeter, you may need a shim/spacer to hold the router base high enough that it doesn't hit the dome. Alternatively, to avoid damaging the tweeter, you may be able to remove the faceplate and mount it temporarily for the cut.
Mounting for time alignment or polar response
Either way this begins to look like a coax. You get a very organized bubble (and time alignment). Kinda cool. It might be worth the compromize to mount the tweeter on a thin steel bar as though it were a coax - in front of the center of the woofer. Obviously you'd get some reflections and lose some time alignment because the tweet would be in a different plane.
I mostly seen polar patterns are needed to engineer coverage - usually are not a big problem in home installations. Coax designs are used for time alignment, even coverage, and to save space, I think.
Either way this begins to look like a coax. You get a very organized bubble (and time alignment). Kinda cool. It might be worth the compromize to mount the tweeter on a thin steel bar as though it were a coax - in front of the center of the woofer. Obviously you'd get some reflections and lose some time alignment because the tweet would be in a different plane.
I mostly seen polar patterns are needed to engineer coverage - usually are not a big problem in home installations. Coax designs are used for time alignment, even coverage, and to save space, I think.
I like catapult's idea, i was thinking of something along those lines. After some consideration, I may simply mount the tweeter in the fasion that I have shown above. It would be simpler, and I can't really imagine 1/2" more space between the woofer and tweeter making all that much of a sonic difference. Am I wrong?
However, I do need some advice on the box, so I'm going to start a new thread for that.
Thanks,
-andy
However, I do need some advice on the box, so I'm going to start a new thread for that.
Thanks,
-andy
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.