Taking a "bite" out of a tweeter - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 11th April 2003, 05:51 AM   #11
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: New York
well...I've drawn them without the tweeter and woofer's lips overlapping, but I've didn't draw bracing either. In other words, this cabinet is not final and is open for suggestions. So please, tear it apart. This is just some thing to start from.
My goal is a moderately well damped, solid, decent looking, and simple to construct enclosure with an f3 of around 35 (which this box attains). I don't really know where to put bracing, or how to place the drivers optimally on the baffle. What I have should be fine, but if anyone has some fun tweeks, let me know.
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Old 12th April 2003, 03:59 AM   #12
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Planet Earth
For the cleanest cut, you can use your router. Flush mount the tweeter, tape it up, and then cut the rabbet for the woofer. A carbide bit will cut right through plastic or aluminum. Depending on the tweeter, you may need a shim/spacer to hold the router base high enough that it doesn't hit the dome. Alternatively, to avoid damaging the tweeter, you may be able to remove the faceplate and mount it temporarily for the cut.
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Old 12th April 2003, 04:31 AM   #13
TheoM is offline TheoM  United States
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Ohio
Default Mounting for time alignment or polar response

Either way this begins to look like a coax. You get a very organized bubble (and time alignment). Kinda cool. It might be worth the compromize to mount the tweeter on a thin steel bar as though it were a coax - in front of the center of the woofer. Obviously you'd get some reflections and lose some time alignment because the tweet would be in a different plane.

I mostly seen polar patterns are needed to engineer coverage - usually are not a big problem in home installations. Coax designs are used for time alignment, even coverage, and to save space, I think.
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Old 13th April 2003, 04:25 PM   #14
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: New York
I like catapult's idea, i was thinking of something along those lines. After some consideration, I may simply mount the tweeter in the fasion that I have shown above. It would be simpler, and I can't really imagine 1/2" more space between the woofer and tweeter making all that much of a sonic difference. Am I wrong?

However, I do need some advice on the box, so I'm going to start a new thread for that.
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