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Old 24th November 2008, 11:30 AM   #11
AMV8 is offline AMV8  United Kingdom
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Hi

My experience is that the T27 goes with the B139/B110 better than the Celestion HF1300 does. Also if you use the T27 I do not think that you really need the super tweeter as the T27 goes very high on its own.

Don
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Old 24th November 2008, 06:55 PM   #12
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Default transmission line

Hi Don
You may be correct in what you say but i am trying to emulate the original design as close as possible at the moment and then improve on it.It is my intention to replace the 8ohm hf1300 with 2 x 16ohm hf1300s in parallel.I have listened to this setup in the ditton 25s and they are superb for upper mid range speakers, i wll then turn my attention to the b110 for a further improvement.

Tony
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Old 24th November 2008, 08:00 PM   #13
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Default Re: transmission line

Quote:
Originally posted by tonysherwin
It is my intention to replace the 8ohm hf1300 with 2 x 16ohm hf1300s in parallel.
Bad idea. The spacing of 2 is way too far apart at those frequencies to avoid combing. In the Ditton this causes a muddled HF (the HF1300s don't get anywhere near the midrange)

You'd be streets ahead to just replace the tweeters with a single modern tweeter -- even a modest modern tweeter can handily outperforn the tweeters of the day.

dave
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Old 18th May 2010, 05:06 AM   #14
cdfac is offline cdfac  United States
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is there still a plan for the RSPM or SACM cabinets floating around? i've looked and can't really find anything useful. i've got the spare drivers to do a 3-way speaker like this, and i was thinking of modeling it after the SACM form factor. i'd appreciate any help i can get here, thanks!
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Old 4th May 2011, 04:26 AM   #15
mikemac is offline mikemac  Australia
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Default IMF question

This is an old thread but i am interested in building some thing more substantial than my Kef duettes. I have some scandyna a-25's and no partner so a very large transmision line like the one in planet-10's post sound like the go.
I have some questions: Am i to understand that i build the cabinets, use my seas woofer and a suitable mid range driver ( i have some fostex fe-103's??) and then mount an external tweeter, build cross over and bob's your uncle.
I am pretty savvy with electronics but a complete innocent with acoustics so any thoughts or suggestions would be very much appreciated
Michael
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Old 4th May 2011, 05:13 AM   #16
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If one assumes that the old scandyna is similar to the current variation the line Scott & i did for the world design lit should work fine. With FE103 (or any number of 3 or 4" FRs) a tweeter is optional. If you leave off the tweeter and do an active XO you'd be in your comfort zone
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Old 4th May 2011, 05:43 AM   #17
mikemac is offline mikemac  Australia
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Thanks for that. I am keen to get on with this. i will be back to get some advice on the xo design. let u know what happens
michael
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Old 5th May 2011, 01:58 AM   #18
mikemac is offline mikemac  Australia
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One very last thing, does any one have a ply cutting plan for the above mentioned Viking TL? It would be much appreciated. Kind regards Michael
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Old 15th May 2011, 12:28 AM   #19
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Gone are the days of the Fried transmission line kits designed by Bud. The new company has left out the DIY.
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Old 28th December 2011, 03:28 PM   #20
krigby is offline krigby  United States
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I have been searching for a good TL cabinet design for a 3-way active speaker system for a while and the Pro9 looks like a good candidate.

I have a pair of Mark Audio CHR70's and a pair of Fostex FE126En's laying around. I was thinking I might use either of them (preferably the MA's) for the mids.

My vision is to use the miniDIGI/DSP/AMP combo in 2.1 mode, but that means I am going to need some really efficient woofers since the miniAMP only delivers 20 watts.

Any thoughts on this concept? Any suggestions on bass drivers for the 3-way Pro9 cabinets?
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