Right now the closest contender is the Peerless 811647 HDT 100 horn loaded dome tweeter. http://www.d-s-t.com.au/data/Peerless/811647.pdf
It is a good product for the low price, but it may or may not break if the DIY party speakers were played to 120Db, which corresponds to 100W system power. This is the maximum rated power for the Peerless, which is basically a tricked up hi-fi dome tweeter. How do ordinary dome tweeters hold up near maximum rated continuous system power?
The plus for the Peerless is that it is an established brand so it cant sound bad (if not good), and soft dome tweeters have smoother response and inoffensive (im guessing). At least compared to a cheap no name titanium compression driver at the electronics shop.
Any other solutions I may not have thought yet (DIY or ready made)?
It is a good product for the low price, but it may or may not break if the DIY party speakers were played to 120Db, which corresponds to 100W system power. This is the maximum rated power for the Peerless, which is basically a tricked up hi-fi dome tweeter. How do ordinary dome tweeters hold up near maximum rated continuous system power?
The plus for the Peerless is that it is an established brand so it cant sound bad (if not good), and soft dome tweeters have smoother response and inoffensive (im guessing). At least compared to a cheap no name titanium compression driver at the electronics shop.
Any other solutions I may not have thought yet (DIY or ready made)?
Providing you've got clean power up to and beyond 100W, so your not ever feeding a clipped signal, then it should be fine. The crossover will limit the power effectively going to the tweeter, where the woofer may be using 100W the content above 2.5khz may only require an average of 10W-20W, peaks may be of 100W but these arn't an issue here 
The baffle step will also make the tweeter louder than the woofers in effect, by 6db, then the tweter requires only 1/4 of the power because of this alone. Unless your woofer is 106db efficient and you won't be using a pad on the tweeter?
The baffle step will also make the tweeter louder than the woofers in effect, by 6db, then the tweter requires only 1/4 of the power because of this alone. Unless your woofer is 106db efficient and you won't be using a pad on the tweeter?
Dr.EM said:Providing you've got clean power up to and beyond 100W, so your not ever feeding a clipped signal, then it should be fine. The crossover will limit the power effectively going to the tweeter, where the woofer may be using 100W the content above 2.5khz may only require an average of 10W-20W, peaks may be of 100W but these arn't an issue here
The baffle step will also make the tweeter louder than the woofers in effect, by 6db, then the tweter requires only 1/4 of the power because of this alone. Unless your woofer is 106db efficient and you won't be using a pad on the tweeter?
The speaker in my head would be 70cm wide dipole(18" woofer), and its shoved near a wall. So I don't think i need baffle step compensation, I'm not aiming for perfection. Of course, I was referring to 120Db system.
Im not sure if you are aware, but the 100W rating already takes assumes the tweeter is crossovered. The tweeter is probably 15-20W by itself. Is it still fine? Has anyone run 100W through their 2 way hi-fi systems and not a hitch?
They get very expensive, if from a trusted/quality brand. Otherwise a cheap unknown compression driver from the local electronics chain (Altronics).RobWells said:
With the existence of compression drivers, it'd be absolutely ridiculous to even consider "hi-fi" tweeters for this design IMO. You probably think they don't sound as good because you've never heard one implemented correctly. Most diffraction horns sound awful IMO, and this is pretty much always how they're used in high output professional loudspeaker systems. If used correctly in a design for personal use, they can easily beat the pants off any little inefficient tweeter toys out there in every aspect. Whenever you're interested in coming up with any loudspeaker system.. instead of using a compression driver because you think you have to, try to base the design on the fact that you WILL use a compression driver, always. It works!.. IF done correctly, which is extremely critical.
brucemck2 said:
lol that is $450USD, probably $800AUD if its sold here in Australia. The Peerless would be 1/20th the price of that thing.
Besides the Peerless, I have a few cheap chinese made ebay compression drivers in mind. driver #1 driver #2
I'm hoping they are as good as Eminence's no-frills offerings; since some Eminences are imported from China I beleive (their ASD1001 compression driver is).
Sadly the particular hi-Vi is not sold here, and even then because of its wide horizontal dispersion; not a good match for the dispersion pattern of the rest of the speaker.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
eminence
Tested by K&T low thd was the same quality as others how are 10 times more expensive.
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