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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
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When making big subwoofer cabinets t nuts & insert nuts r used.
HI hv attached the picture of the 3 different type of inserts used in box making. Which is better among this? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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I would expect all of these to work adequately.
The two with the 4tang arrangement may need pilot holes if the board is particularly hard. Some grades of MDF (HDF?) seem to always bend the tangs. All of them are inserted from the back and very effectively clamp the board between Tnut and driver frame.
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regards Andrew T. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Blackstone VA
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You might check out the PartsExpress site, they have the "T" nuts with an extra tang for additional grab.
Pete |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Could you get these T nuts in India. |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
All three could work, but as said the tangs can bend over. The kind in the middle is my preferred type, but I augment the holding power by putting a drop of epoxy in the hole before press fitting the insert nut. I don't like the screw in kind (not shown) because they never go in orthogonal to the work piece without setting up a jig and using the drill press to screw them in. Which...is annoying. -Scott
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www.stuffscottbuilt.com |
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#6 |
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Did it Himself
diyAudio Member
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I use the screw in type and while it's difficult to get them square if you screw from the back after the cabinet is built, I had no problem just putting them in by hand with an allen key to the panel before it was glued to the box. This was with MDF, it's probably harder with plywood.
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www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: near london
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Hi
I would expect them all to work. However in practice I use a nut with a plastic insert and glue that to the cabinet. If I can not use that I use a very small amount of car gasket compound and add it to the bolt thread to stop the nuts working loose with use. Don |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: So. Cal.
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Hi mhtplsh,
Here is an approach that I used http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=29922 . You can see the end results for me and some additional commentary here http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=29968 . HTH Mike |
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#10 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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The one in the is not actually a t-nut, it is called a threaded insert. These are more reliable than a t-nut. I'll only use a t-nut in an application where i can get at both sides without removing the device it is holding (only 1 experience with having to find a way to remove a driver after the t-nut spins loose was convincement enuff)
When installing these i use 1 or more sacrificial bolts & some washers to slowly pull the t-nut or threaded insert into position. This ensures a square fit and a more secure installation. dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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