Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Multi-Way

Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 31st March 2003, 02:28 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: USA
Default car amplifier for home sub?

Would it be an ok idea to use a car amplifer like the cheap Pyramid Arctic PB101 (15-30000Hz, 2x120W@4-ohm) as an amplifier for a home sub? With the proper step down tranny, of course. The sub would have a low pass of 100Hz, 12dB/octave. Is this ok? The sub can only take 115W MAX anyway into 8-ohms. Could I parallel both channels of the amp onto the sub? I don't want to risk bridging it, but is it ok to parallel? I already have a 440W 12" sub and just want something to be a lesser counterpart, and want to spend way under $100. So far, total is around $50, minus amp, which would be around $30 more for this. I can build my own for the same price, but I figured if I can get somethign already built and heatsinked for less, in its own box, why not do it? Would it work ok?
  Reply With Quote
Old 31st March 2003, 02:37 PM   #2
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: USA
Would a 12VDC@1.2A power transformer be adequate for a car amp?
  Reply With Quote
Old 31st March 2003, 03:06 PM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Mars
Car amplifiers work on low voltage DC and draw high current.

A simple 75w x 2 @ 4 ohm car amp that is not 2 ohm stable
will be fused at 15 amperes.

Look at your amplifier's fuse rating to get a ballpark on
what you need. 1.2A is not even close to be enough.

12VDC x 1.2A = 14.4 watts
  Reply With Quote
Old 31st March 2003, 03:32 PM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Bath, UK
thylantyr is right - you need plenty of current for a car amplifier. You might be able to use an old PC power supply as these have reasonable high current rating on the 12v rail (I believe PC PSU is rated at 12v @ 16A continious).

A PSU intended for PC wil be a noisy switcher, but car amps use switching supplies internally to boost their supply rails anyway.

Nice one,
David.
  Reply With Quote
Old 31st March 2003, 06:11 PM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA area
Look on ebay for some Astron supplies....good quality, high amps.
  Reply With Quote
Old 1st April 2003, 06:12 AM   #6
sangram is offline sangram  India
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: India
Actually, you can use the little transformer to check how much voltage the car amp actually runs on (open up the amp and check voltages at the rails), and then build a nice 400 VA supply for it.

Or run off car batteries. The small transformer will make a nice charger.
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd April 2003, 10:25 PM   #7
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: England, cambridge
i made some speakers that used a car amp about 4 years ago, worked well, i used a 300va tranny and some nice big caps, you can get away with a smaller power supply by adding large caps on the rails, you'd need to make an RC cirucit for them to charge at first switch on. there are some 1F caps out there going cheap atm.

The caps would be enough to supply a large amount of current in bursts without the need for a massive tranny. but a car amp at that power will draw loads of current, if it is opperating at say 2 x 100w thats 200w total output and amps are only about 40-60% efficient so you'd be looking at about 400w inputpower. which is a lot of power for 12 volts tho amps can be 24v too.
  Reply With Quote
Old 8th April 2003, 04:23 PM   #8
JBasham is offline JBasham  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: At Home
I did this once. It worked fine. But, I used a 25 amp Tripp-Lite power supply.
__________________
The only true thing in audio is what you hear with your own ears.
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th April 2003, 02:27 PM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Stockholm
Send a message via MSN to Olle Bard
why not use a batteryloader, they have massive loading currents?
or is there a problem like different steps in the loading or something?
__________________
I like turning knobs clockwise
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th April 2003, 03:29 PM   #10
karma is offline karma  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
karma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: hamilton,ontario
Red face amps

and a good fuze
Attached Images
File Type: jpg picture 522.jpg (19.6 KB, 128 views)
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Designing the best solid state analog home audio amplifier ever (self) build. Marc Vi Solid State 17 19th October 2011 07:56 AM
Problem with Rotel RB-985 MKII 5 channel home cinema amplifier... hoppaz Solid State 2 9th April 2009 08:04 AM
Bypassing car amplifier SMPS for use in home 96tahoe Car Audio 8 3rd April 2008 09:50 PM
Another car amplifier at home thread... camusmuse Solid State 19 9th November 2004 11:22 PM
Home Amplifier Help syko82 Solid State 7 12th August 2002 05:20 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 12:47 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2