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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 20th September 2008, 08:27 AM   #1
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Default Internet Research Only


I just registered to ask some advice on a hi-fi system.

I'm basing my decisions so far on internet research, I've never even heard a hi-fi system, the best sound I've heard so far was a panasonic sound bar in an apartment store playing a music dvd.

Anyway I have a quite big room, listen to all types of music quiet and loud and will play uncompressed and compressed music off my computer.

I haven't got any good hi-fi shops around me and I live in New Zealand so getting a budget system is tricky.

I can do wood working quite well but have limited soldering experience.

I have been researching in my spare time for a few months and enjoy it, thus far most of the system I am considering will be sent from overseas.

My rough budget is $1000 NZ ($700 US)

I understand how hard this might be because individual tastes vary so much but balance is key.


My idea so far is:

- KECES DA-151 $285 US

-Trends Audio TA-10.1 $230 US

-A pair of Audio Nirvana Standard 8 and Super 8 drivers (to build 2.8 Ambience box) $340 US (not including enclosure) (you can switch between forward facing driver or both drivers)


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Old 20th September 2008, 09:57 AM   #2
BHTX is offline BHTX  United States
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Do a simple 2-way. If you can't solder, go active. Doesn't have to be expensive either, even for high sensitivity. The money you'd save passing on the wacky full-rangers would be better spent elsewhere in that case. Dunno anything about that DAC, dunno what it uses, didn't look. As for that Trends.. I'd be willing to bet it's pretty much this little toy right here: ..I had the 1st gen a while back. $20 from eBay. It'd do a few watts with some modification.
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Old 20th September 2008, 09:59 AM   #3
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Arthur, If you like to build things yourself and get a good feeling of accomplishment when you are finished I would suggest you practice up on your soldering skills and build your own amp. The quality of the finished product could well be an amplifier on par with some of the 3 to 4 thousand dollar retail units.
If you are extremely conscientious and check every component you use and follow the instructions very closely you should not have any problems. The major mistake most people make is not checking everything as you build. Going back and having to troubleshoot can be very tedious.
Check out some of the options in this forum and Pass Labs for some good ideas on build projects. The reward is worth the labor. Have fun Tad

Watch out you just might get bit by the audio diy bug and really start putting together some fancy stuff.
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Old 20th September 2008, 11:33 AM   #4
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AN's are nice drivers, but the cabinet design is dodgy, whatever they might like to claim. If you scout around, you'd see some better enclosure designs.
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Old 21st September 2008, 12:38 AM   #5
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I've been thinking about systems for a long time and I seem to be going round in circles,

I'm willing to diy an amp as long as it's reasonably straight forward,

I don't mean to be a pain but could you recommend me a system, amp plus speakers at least, to give me a head start.

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Old 21st September 2008, 12:38 AM   #6
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Space and looks are not a restriction, in fact i'd like to build some big enclosures if it means getting the most from the speakers, I also really like the look of multiple drivers but i'd imagine that doesn't really fit the criteria too well

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Old 21st September 2008, 01:46 AM   #7
GM is offline GM  United States
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When someone says 'uncompressed' and 'loud' for a HIFI app, this equates to needing a high sound quality (SQ) efficient prosound-like system and plenty of dynamic headroom (power), which will be well beyond your budget, so what compromises are you willing to make to meet your budget?

Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.
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Old 21st September 2008, 04:47 AM   #8
ScottG is offline ScottG  United States
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(search the forum here for opinions on it)

Use the same inductors (Parts Express) or copper foil substitutes with exceedingly similar resistances (the mh value should be the same but the ohm value can vary very slightly). You can change out capacitors to suit your taste.. (..for resistors I prefer a DIY effort as long as they aren't thermally abused, but its up to you.)

(value-wise look to DIY HiFi supplies Obligato caps or SA grade Clarity Caps.)

Put most of your money into the loudspeaker.

The Sonic Impact 5065 Gen 2 T-Amp with Power Supply (BHTX's suggestion) is a good low cost solution that can be upgraded with a substitution of the input capacitor and perhaps latter on with a better power supply (possibly a large array of paralleled SLA batteries). In any event the amp is more than worth its price AS-IS so long as the loudspeaker doesn't present a difficult load, and the PMS (above) doesn't. This will give low output (sounds loud though with a speaker of the PMS's eff. and load). If you are willing to do a kit for low cost consider other Tripath offerings from 41 Hz, or a gain clone, or something else.
perspective is everything
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Old 21st September 2008, 08:37 AM   #9
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Maybe I don't mean 'loud'. I'm looking for decent volumes in quite a large room, the audio nirvana 2.8 ambience sounded perfect to me but I don't know much about enclosure design.

Maybe a 2.8 ambience type enclosure but more suited to those speakers, is there a tried but true box design with upwards firing drivers that would work with the AN standard and super 8s?

Or maybe a bass reflex enclosure for a super 8 cast frame, running off a higher powered diy t amp kit?

I'm willing to compromise in all areas as long as the system remains balanced.

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Old 21st September 2008, 09:10 AM   #10
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As GM notes, there's a limit to what you can do with your budget. You seem to like the idea of FR drivers. However, the 8in AN drivers are really not ideal for BR style cabinets (whatever they like to claim). Low Q FR units with a rising response and a BR box generally doth not a happy combination make unless you're willing to Eq things flat, either via passive or active methods, or running other drivers with them. It'd be possible to do something similar using drivers slightly better suited to the task. Although in all cases, you'd have to watch out for dust etc getting into the upper driver.

Alternatively, I usually don't like suggesting anything I've done, but may I venture that something here might suit? The Half or Full Chang cabinets with the Fostex FE207E are easy builds, & might give you what you're after.
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