Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Multi-Way
Home Forums Rules Articles Store Gallery Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 18th September 2008, 04:32 PM   #11
diyAudio Member
 
Scottmoose's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
Well, if one takes a gander at the Fletcher-Munson / Equal Loundess curve, we see a rapid diminishing of our hearing accuity with rising frequency over about 8Khz or so, the most significant band being approx. 200Hz - 4KHz. So while nominally not perfect, within reason, you can get away with things that you couldn't in our acute hearing BW. Ditto for the LF.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 400px-lindos4_svg.jpg (49.3 KB, 460 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th September 2008, 06:24 PM   #12
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Vienna
Well, i found out, that i like a small Fullrange driver, like the FX120, and a Woofer more than a large Fullranger and a Tweeter.
But i think it really comes down to personal preference.

Either way, you most likely don't have a crossover in the critical midrange...

Michael
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th September 2008, 07:45 PM   #13
diyAudio Member
 
d to the g's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: minimalopolis
I'll be able to compare small full + helper woofer vs a large full + helper tweeter in the short term. A 126 with some 8" woofers from Jack Hidley vs a Pioneer B20 with Dayton tweeter. Hopefully that should give me a better idea of what I want to do for more ambitious projects in the future. I wish I could say more from experience, but for now I'll just sit back and learn.
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th September 2008, 03:37 AM   #14
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Seattle, WA, USA
So the cabinets appear by eyeball to be the .25cf on top, and the 1.0cf on bottom. Total of ~$450 for cabinets. Anyone have the cojones to walk in to a dealer with a tape measure? Cabinets weigh ~85lb so to meet specs drivers, crossovers, stands, and lead shot would be another ~105 Lbs. The web site says "Only the entry level speakers (this certainly would be one at "only" $15k\pr) are made in China". Specs may point to Seas W18E or W18EX woofer. The mid is said by some to be a "Ceramic compound" but yes, it looks identical to the Fostex FX-120. This looks like a very interesting project......

Bob G.
__________________
I don't need to spend money on my system for something only you can hear....
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th September 2008, 06:31 AM   #15
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 4
Quote:
Originally posted by bobgroger
The mid is said by some to be a "Ceramic compound" but yes, it looks identical to the Fostex FX-120.
It is a Fostex FX120. The coating that comes on the Kenaf cone could well be a paint on ceramic compound similar to what Totem uses on the inside of their boxes.

If one looks at the mid cabinets in the review of theBESL speaker in this months affordable audio, they also have the outward apperance of the rectamgular PE cabinet.

The PE cabinets do not satisfy the levels of performance i'd consider adequate for even a budget speaker. One could rework them, but it would be easier to start from scratch. the curved back cabinets are another matter.

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th September 2008, 10:34 AM   #16
sreten is online now sreten  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
Hi,

Badge engineering or badge BS ? you decide ....

88dB/W .... 91DB in room ..... -3dB @ 25Hz

A lot easier to make up than actually build.

To work correctly with those sort of numbers would require bi-amping,
with a lot more juice on the bass end, ideally with active crossovers.

The "time aligment" is fairly meaningless at the bass/mid c/o point.

With the apparent drivers it would make an interesting project,
but a single amplifier passive system would be compromised.

The 25Hz - 3dB point is pure fantasy even at the bass units real
bass sensitivity of ~ 85dB in any sensible box, never mind the
somewhat restricted 1cuft bass section, a 8" needs more.

/sreten.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Pioneer BOFU, 8" fullranger problem gychang Full Range 34 24th December 2007 07:56 AM
Decent, smallish (6" maximum, 4 or 5" preferred) fullranger below US$50? ux226 Full Range 5 5th March 2007 03:58 PM
Helper tweeter lens via ~Karlson idea "THE KUP" freddi Full Range 0 25th November 2006 06:54 PM
suspending a small tweeter in front of woofer for "coaxial" effect? bikehorn Multi-Way 3 2nd January 2006 02:04 PM
WTB: Focal & Audiom & Volts 11", 12", 13", 15" woofer gengis Swap Meet 0 17th March 2005 02:29 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 11:19 PM.

Page generated in 0.09526 seconds (74.16% PHP - 25.84% MySQL) with 11 queries

Copyright ©1999-2012 diyAudio