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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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Well, if one takes a gander at the Fletcher-Munson / Equal Loundess curve, we see a rapid diminishing of our hearing accuity with rising frequency over about 8Khz or so, the most significant band being approx. 200Hz - 4KHz. So while nominally not perfect, within reason, you can get away with things that you couldn't in our acute hearing BW. Ditto for the LF.
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Vienna
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Well, i found out, that i like a small Fullrange driver, like the FX120, and a Woofer more than a large Fullranger and a Tweeter.
But i think it really comes down to personal preference. Either way, you most likely don't have a crossover in the critical midrange... Michael |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: minimalopolis
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I'll be able to compare small full + helper woofer vs a large full + helper tweeter in the short term. A 126 with some 8" woofers from Jack Hidley vs a Pioneer B20 with Dayton tweeter. Hopefully that should give me a better idea of what I want to do for more ambitious projects in the future. I wish I could say more from experience, but for now I'll just sit back and learn.
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Seattle, WA, USA
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So the cabinets appear by eyeball to be the .25cf on top, and the 1.0cf on bottom. Total of ~$450 for cabinets. Anyone have the cojones to walk in to a dealer with a tape measure? Cabinets weigh ~85lb so to meet specs drivers, crossovers, stands, and lead shot would be another ~105 Lbs. The web site says "Only the entry level speakers (this certainly would be one at "only" $15k\pr) are made in China". Specs may point to Seas W18E or W18EX woofer. The mid is said by some to be a "Ceramic compound" but yes, it looks identical to the Fostex FX-120. This looks like a very interesting project......
Bob G.
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I don't need to spend money on my system for something only you can hear.... |
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#15 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
If one looks at the mid cabinets in the review of theBESL speaker in this months affordable audio, they also have the outward apperance of the rectamgular PE cabinet. The PE cabinets do not satisfy the levels of performance i'd consider adequate for even a budget speaker. One could rework them, but it would be easier to start from scratch. the curved back cabinets are another matter. dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
Badge engineering or badge BS ? you decide .... 88dB/W .... 91DB in room ..... -3dB @ 25Hz A lot easier to make up than actually build. To work correctly with those sort of numbers would require bi-amping, with a lot more juice on the bass end, ideally with active crossovers. The "time aligment" is fairly meaningless at the bass/mid c/o point. With the apparent drivers it would make an interesting project, but a single amplifier passive system would be compromised. The 25Hz - 3dB point is pure fantasy even at the bass units real bass sensitivity of ~ 85dB in any sensible box, never mind the somewhat restricted 1cuft bass section, a 8" needs more. |
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| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Pioneer BOFU, 8" fullranger problem | gychang | Full Range | 34 | 24th December 2007 07:56 AM |
| Decent, smallish (6" maximum, 4 or 5" preferred) fullranger below US$50? | ux226 | Full Range | 5 | 5th March 2007 03:58 PM |
| Helper tweeter lens via ~Karlson idea "THE KUP" | freddi | Full Range | 0 | 25th November 2006 06:54 PM |
| suspending a small tweeter in front of woofer for "coaxial" effect? | bikehorn | Multi-Way | 3 | 2nd January 2006 02:04 PM |
| WTB: Focal & Audiom & Volts 11", 12", 13", 15" woofer | gengis | Swap Meet | 0 | 17th March 2005 02:29 AM |
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