Loudspeaker gurus, your help/advice is requested:
I'm looking to engage in a project which basically takes me from "scratch" to building a pair of speakers. The steps would be described in a forum like this one, in a book, or somewhere on a website. Let's say I am to build a stereo pair of passive subwoofers. Here is what I'm referring to:
1. Reference an existing off-the-shelf woofer with certain specs (something reasonable - very average design) and note it's various T/S parameters. This is just for reference. My goal is actually to build a "raw" woofer.
2. Run a simulation(s) using speaker driver design s/w in order to choose an appropiate magnet, voice coil, cone, etc. for use a given enclosure.
3. Buy the various driver parts and assemble them. I'm referring to actually assembling the woofer, in this step.
4. Perform some tests on the woofer to verify the specifications (Xmax, etc..). Replace parts, tweak, if necessary.
5. Build the cabinet and install the woofer.
6. Build and install a passive crossover.
7. Make more measurements.
8. Tweak the cabinet.
I acknowledge that there are probably more steps and other things to consider. Please bear with me, I'm obviously new to this.
My goal is to get ground level experience in a building a speaker system. The initial focus is more on the driver design than the cabinet & crossover, for the time being. I'd like to see how accurately I can build a woofer to meet design specs.
Vance Dickason steps the reader through a few transducer design
(speaker driver) examples in his book, although the s/w he uses is pretty expensive. Anyone know of alternatives? Any insight from you guys will be great.
Thx.
-UncleJessie
I'm looking to engage in a project which basically takes me from "scratch" to building a pair of speakers. The steps would be described in a forum like this one, in a book, or somewhere on a website. Let's say I am to build a stereo pair of passive subwoofers. Here is what I'm referring to:
1. Reference an existing off-the-shelf woofer with certain specs (something reasonable - very average design) and note it's various T/S parameters. This is just for reference. My goal is actually to build a "raw" woofer.
2. Run a simulation(s) using speaker driver design s/w in order to choose an appropiate magnet, voice coil, cone, etc. for use a given enclosure.
3. Buy the various driver parts and assemble them. I'm referring to actually assembling the woofer, in this step.
4. Perform some tests on the woofer to verify the specifications (Xmax, etc..). Replace parts, tweak, if necessary.
5. Build the cabinet and install the woofer.
6. Build and install a passive crossover.
7. Make more measurements.
8. Tweak the cabinet.
I acknowledge that there are probably more steps and other things to consider. Please bear with me, I'm obviously new to this.
My goal is to get ground level experience in a building a speaker system. The initial focus is more on the driver design than the cabinet & crossover, for the time being. I'd like to see how accurately I can build a woofer to meet design specs.
Vance Dickason steps the reader through a few transducer design
(speaker driver) examples in his book, although the s/w he uses is pretty expensive. Anyone know of alternatives? Any insight from you guys will be great.
Thx.
-UncleJessie
If you're going for ground level, don't start building your own drivers with the intent of actually using them in a box!
Building raw drivers is fun and exciting, but also extremely challenging. Getting it right takes a LOT of knowledge.
Trust me. I made a CD-subwoofer with homemade voice coils and everything. It was a disaster! I still have all the parts...
The only use I can think of for making your own woofer is doing something extremely esoteric in design--perhaps something with a HUGE moving mass and lots of excursion, with a very high-power amp and a voice coil made of maybe 24guage wire--this would give nice very low frequency reproduction.
You might try making your own tweeters or midranges first. Definitely go with the self-assembling design to begin with. It makes things lots easier. Having to deal with hanging suspensions (surrounds and spiders) takes a lot of practice.
Seriously though. Buy some drivers and build a box for them. Don't think of it too seriously, and don't spend too much on them; think about making this project, and then making your next project better because of what you've learned from this one. Make sense?
Building raw drivers is fun and exciting, but also extremely challenging. Getting it right takes a LOT of knowledge.
Trust me. I made a CD-subwoofer with homemade voice coils and everything. It was a disaster! I still have all the parts...
The only use I can think of for making your own woofer is doing something extremely esoteric in design--perhaps something with a HUGE moving mass and lots of excursion, with a very high-power amp and a voice coil made of maybe 24guage wire--this would give nice very low frequency reproduction.
You might try making your own tweeters or midranges first. Definitely go with the self-assembling design to begin with. It makes things lots easier. Having to deal with hanging suspensions (surrounds and spiders) takes a lot of practice.
Seriously though. Buy some drivers and build a box for them. Don't think of it too seriously, and don't spend too much on them; think about making this project, and then making your next project better because of what you've learned from this one. Make sense?
Hi UncleJessie
Dickason makes it sound so easy, doesn't he!
In reality, because he is a well known designer, all his prototypes will be built to his specs by driver manufacturers to high tolerances and on specialist machinery.
A DIYer is unlikely to get the same results, or be able to buy the different components to construct their own drivers. Homemade components are unlikely to have the same specs, and the tolerances required for assembly and manufacture difficult in the extreme.
Not to put a total downer on your ideas, it is possible, but it could prove very expensive and frustrating to get a reasonable end result.
Dickason makes it sound so easy, doesn't he!
In reality, because he is a well known designer, all his prototypes will be built to his specs by driver manufacturers to high tolerances and on specialist machinery.
A DIYer is unlikely to get the same results, or be able to buy the different components to construct their own drivers. Homemade components are unlikely to have the same specs, and the tolerances required for assembly and manufacture difficult in the extreme.
Not to put a total downer on your ideas, it is possible, but it could prove very expensive and frustrating to get a reasonable end result.
Some clarification
I just want to clarify that I'm not attempting to manufacture a magnet, spider, basket, etc.. However, maybe I could make a voice coil?
A previous post suggested that it might be easier to build a tweeter than a woofer. Is this the general consensus? If so, why?
Once again, I'm looking at this project from a transducer engineering viewpoint. So, at the very least I'd like to assemble a driver and perform some tests on it. I realize that this won't be a trivial task and there will be a lot of stumbling blocks. Knowing this, I'm still ready to get my feet wet if the project doesn't break the bank.
I welcome your posts. Please keep them coming.
Regards,
UncleJessie
I just want to clarify that I'm not attempting to manufacture a magnet, spider, basket, etc.. However, maybe I could make a voice coil?
A previous post suggested that it might be easier to build a tweeter than a woofer. Is this the general consensus? If so, why?
Once again, I'm looking at this project from a transducer engineering viewpoint. So, at the very least I'd like to assemble a driver and perform some tests on it. I realize that this won't be a trivial task and there will be a lot of stumbling blocks. Knowing this, I'm still ready to get my feet wet if the project doesn't break the bank.
I welcome your posts. Please keep them coming.
Regards,
UncleJessie
Okay, we are at the nitty-gritty here.
If you want to get into DIY audio, there are several levels to it.
One is going to Radio Shack, buying a setup, and installing it yourself.
Then there's installing the Radio Shack setup and running your wires through the walls.
Then there's building your own cabinets.
Then there's building the drivers.
Then there's building the parts for the drivers.
---
There are places online where you can get raw voice coils and cones and replacement surrounds and enough fun stuff to make your own drivers, but it's almost guaranteed that you won't do as well as the pros in driver construction.
I've thought about actually building the parts for drivers, and I've gone so far as to make some really crappy voice coils on my own (using an M&M Mini's tube as a former--this was a BAD CHOICE--and 30-guage wire from Radio Shack. Unless you need high power handling, use smaller wire... I think 40-guage is good, and since it reduces the moving mass, you can get a more efficient speaker.)
My favorite idea is making the surrounds. There's nothing quite as cool about a speaker as watching the rubber surround contort as the woofer moves an inch at a time to make your chest thump. It's just really cool to see.
At present, though, I've never succeeded in making one. While I prefer cloth surrounds over everything else, I haven't the slightest clue as to how you would go about making a cloth speaker surround.
Cones? Same thing. I think you could paint a salad bowl with a paper pulp and get a fair result though.
Spiders? I'm clueless as to how to make these.
Gaskets? Cardboard. (At least something is easy!!)
Dustcaps? This could be really fun--copper on a lathe, for example--and you can make those really cool Seas-style copper plug heatsink dustcaps.
Baskets? You'd need experience in machining for this, and probably the easiest thing is to stamp an aluminium frame. This is probably rather expensive though.... I don't know much about machining so I'll leave this to the experts. This is another area where I am truly clueless. The best I ever did was to secure my magnets inside a Lego fixture. Even this didn't work too well.
Anyway. Bounce some ideas off us! The odds are hard against us that we'll get anything even close to pro level, but I think this is more about fun than about success!
If you want to get into DIY audio, there are several levels to it.
One is going to Radio Shack, buying a setup, and installing it yourself.
Then there's installing the Radio Shack setup and running your wires through the walls.
Then there's building your own cabinets.
Then there's building the drivers.
Then there's building the parts for the drivers.
---
There are places online where you can get raw voice coils and cones and replacement surrounds and enough fun stuff to make your own drivers, but it's almost guaranteed that you won't do as well as the pros in driver construction.
I've thought about actually building the parts for drivers, and I've gone so far as to make some really crappy voice coils on my own (using an M&M Mini's tube as a former--this was a BAD CHOICE--and 30-guage wire from Radio Shack. Unless you need high power handling, use smaller wire... I think 40-guage is good, and since it reduces the moving mass, you can get a more efficient speaker.)
My favorite idea is making the surrounds. There's nothing quite as cool about a speaker as watching the rubber surround contort as the woofer moves an inch at a time to make your chest thump. It's just really cool to see.
At present, though, I've never succeeded in making one. While I prefer cloth surrounds over everything else, I haven't the slightest clue as to how you would go about making a cloth speaker surround.Cones? Same thing. I think you could paint a salad bowl with a paper pulp and get a fair result though.
Spiders? I'm clueless as to how to make these.
Gaskets? Cardboard. (At least something is easy!!)
Dustcaps? This could be really fun--copper on a lathe, for example--and you can make those really cool Seas-style copper plug heatsink dustcaps.
Baskets? You'd need experience in machining for this, and probably the easiest thing is to stamp an aluminium frame. This is probably rather expensive though.... I don't know much about machining so I'll leave this to the experts. This is another area where I am truly clueless. The best I ever did was to secure my magnets inside a Lego fixture.
Even this didn't work too well.Anyway. Bounce some ideas off us! The odds are hard against us that we'll get anything even close to pro level, but I think this is more about fun than about success!
How about learning about transducers from dis-assembly?
I mean, you could learn a lot by taking a working driver and "mucking about with it" (sorry for the technical description). Changing the mass of the cone, altering the spider resistance, removing and reattaching the voicecoil with extra windings
At least this way you can play with the motor and see the effects.
It seems to me (no I'm not an engineer) to build something that is working that has fine tolerances without the equipment and someone to mentor / with experience will be very difficult to get a working product.
If your end goal is to get something you built from scratch that you will enjoy listening to, I'd buy a driver and muck around with crossovers and cabinets.
I can't imagine a cheap way of building a driver with all the parts and bits and pieces you'll need... and actually have it work.
If you do have a go - would be great material for a website. I'd be interested!
all the best,
David.
I mean, you could learn a lot by taking a working driver and "mucking about with it" (sorry for the technical description). Changing the mass of the cone, altering the spider resistance, removing and reattaching the voicecoil with extra windings
At least this way you can play with the motor and see the effects.
It seems to me (no I'm not an engineer) to build something that is working that has fine tolerances without the equipment and someone to mentor / with experience will be very difficult to get a working product.
If your end goal is to get something you built from scratch that you will enjoy listening to, I'd buy a driver and muck around with crossovers and cabinets.
I can't imagine a cheap way of building a driver with all the parts and bits and pieces you'll need... and actually have it work.
If you do have a go - would be great material for a website. I'd be interested!
all the best,
David.
Uh-oh. Another David.
here we go.
Disassembly of drivers is a lot of fun! Go for it! Find as many old, blown-out, single, or otherwise useless drivers, and rip 'em up! Learn about how they're constructed, what kinds of materials are used, and get ideas about how you want to do it.
Yeah, that's something I forgot to mention, but driver disassembly is one of the most educational things I've ever done. TONS of fun. Don't miss it.
here we go.
Disassembly of drivers is a lot of fun! Go for it! Find as many old, blown-out, single, or otherwise useless drivers, and rip 'em up! Learn about how they're constructed, what kinds of materials are used, and get ideas about how you want to do it.
Yeah, that's something I forgot to mention, but driver disassembly is one of the most educational things I've ever done. TONS of fun. Don't miss it.
Dissasembling anything is a great way to learn how it works, as long as you don't kill yourself in the process or forget how to put it back together. Which is another way to get yourself killed. Ask my dad about all the things i took apart when i was a kid. Learned alot though at the expense of a couple groundings and missed allowances.
I would go ahead and try to build a driver, forget about the naysayers. It would be fun, and i bet you would learn a ton. This is something that i would also like to try but i don't have as much dissposable time or money anymore.
Good luck
I would go ahead and try to build a driver, forget about the naysayers. It would be fun, and i bet you would learn a ton. This is something that i would also like to try but i don't have as much dissposable time or money anymore.
Good luck
yep. i like the idea. try using the baskets of old drivers to get started. maybe just redo the voice coil first, then try a bigger magnet. if all that works start looking at cones. carbon fibre or fiberglass are really easy to work with for this, but if you are extra keen (and there are metal spinners near you) try getting them to spin one up out of aluminium. i don't know if it is possible, but they may even be able to do the coil former and cone one piece. push bike inner tubes for surrounds.....
the list goes on.
i hope you make a go of it.
keep us posted.
the list goes on.
i hope you make a go of it.
keep us posted.
Ooh!! Neat idea! Voice coil former same piece as the cone... I like your thinking!
I think fiber-reinforced silicone sealant would be a nice surround material too, though forming it well would be a challenge. I think two pieces of plastic tubing arranged in a circle of the right size would to the trick, or maybe just one. The hard part would be getting the part where the piece of tubing joins itself to be smooth.
Bike tubes are very big. I don't know if I want that large of a driver.
I have been playing with some drivers and I've discovered that the neodynium magnets I have lying around make wire move sideways instead of up and down. I'm going to see if I can capitolize on this behavior.
I think fiber-reinforced silicone sealant would be a nice surround material too, though forming it well would be a challenge. I think two pieces of plastic tubing arranged in a circle of the right size would to the trick, or maybe just one. The hard part would be getting the part where the piece of tubing joins itself to be smooth.
Bike tubes are very big. I don't know if I want that large of a driver.
I have been playing with some drivers and I've discovered that the neodynium magnets I have lying around make wire move sideways instead of up and down. I'm going to see if I can capitolize on this behavior.
I'm not sure how easy it would be to get the magnet assemblies. There's a limit to the poundage of magnets that can be shipped. I believe that speaker magnets come "unmagnetized" and must be charged. If they were pre-magnetized, they couldn't be shipped by air at any point. You may be able to get "engineering samples" from a vender though.
For some evidence of this, check out Lambda acoustics site, where he has a home brew magnet charger:
http://www.lambdacoustics.com/funstuff/shoptour.html
FWI, tweeters and midranges are easy to build, I've been building my own electrostatic drivers for a while now. I'd never go back to monkey-box speakers after living with dipoles and ESL's.
Sheldon
For some evidence of this, check out Lambda acoustics site, where he has a home brew magnet charger:
http://www.lambdacoustics.com/funstuff/shoptour.html
FWI, tweeters and midranges are easy to build, I've been building my own electrostatic drivers for a while now. I'd never go back to monkey-box speakers after living with dipoles and ESL's.
Sheldon
Oh geez, magnet chargers...
When I build my shop, the magnet charger will be in its own room, and the label on the door will look like this:
WARNING: Magnet Charger Room
Authorized personnel only.
In all the rest of the shop, the only danger is if you do something stupid.
The equipment in here, on the other hand, might kill you for no reason at all.
Seriously though. My dad gets a lot (A LOT) of old dead or worthless hard drives in, and we keep the ultra-strong neodynium magnets. We've been looking for more useful uses for them for a while (more useful, that is, than teasing small children with them mwahahaa) and I think this might be the ticket.
If this works, you can say good-bye to cone breakup.
When I build my shop, the magnet charger will be in its own room, and the label on the door will look like this:
WARNING: Magnet Charger Room
Authorized personnel only.
In all the rest of the shop, the only danger is if you do something stupid.
The equipment in here, on the other hand, might kill you for no reason at all.
Seriously though. My dad gets a lot (A LOT) of old dead or worthless hard drives in, and we keep the ultra-strong neodynium magnets. We've been looking for more useful uses for them for a while (more useful, that is, than teasing small children with them mwahahaa) and I think this might be the ticket.
If this works, you can say good-bye to cone breakup.
yep. i like the idea. try using the baskets of old drivers to get started. maybe just redo the voice coil first, then try a bigger magnet. if all that works start looking at cones. carbon fibre or fiberglass are really easy to work with for this, but if you are extra keen (and there are metal spinners near you) try getting them to spin one up out of aluminium. i don't know if it is possible, but they may even be able to do the coil former and cone one piece. push bike inner tubes for surrounds.....
the list goes on.
i hope you make a go of it.
keep us posted.
the list goes on.
i hope you make a go of it.
keep us posted.
Re: Some clarification
The easiest driver to DIY is an electostat. Making a DIY moving coil driver is a daunting - but not impossible - task. Getting something that works well is a lot harder.
Even the boutique driver manufacturers are really more of skilled assemblers. Nick's Lambdas are one example. Another is the PEARL PR-2 woofer -- Bill actually sandcast and had made the baskets. Some of the other small bits he made himeself. But magnets (he magged them himself), cones, surrounds, coils, & spiders were all sourced from manuafacturers that specialize in making these parts.
dave
UncleJessie said:
The easiest driver to DIY is an electostat. Making a DIY moving coil driver is a daunting - but not impossible - task. Getting something that works well is a lot harder.
Even the boutique driver manufacturers are really more of skilled assemblers. Nick's Lambdas are one example. Another is the PEARL PR-2 woofer -- Bill actually sandcast and had made the baskets. Some of the other small bits he made himeself. But magnets (he magged them himself), cones, surrounds, coils, & spiders were all sourced from manuafacturers that specialize in making these parts.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
dave
Hi UncleJessie
I too understand the desire to make absolutely every component
of a project, having made several pairs of ribbon transducers
for some diy headphones.
I suppose you have to be clear about why you are doing it though,
as such projects can become very costly unless all that is desired
is for the device too make a noise.
Making a moving coil transducer would daunt me and I would guess most people
on just the costs alone to do it 'properly'.
But if the goal is to do it for the fun of doing it as an end in itself,[obviously achieving a reasonable sound matters too
]then go for it!
this was my motivation and boy has it been a fun,educational and
frustrating project.
And such things are sooo addictive ,once I had achieved a sound I just had to get it better.
I will shortly start work on my 4th version and still gain much pleasure listening to the MK3 versions.
So all you need is, money, tools, patience and time
Good luck with whatever route you decide on and above all have
fun
Setmenu
I too understand the desire to make absolutely every component
of a project, having made several pairs of ribbon transducers
for some diy headphones.
I suppose you have to be clear about why you are doing it though,
as such projects can become very costly unless all that is desired
is for the device too make a noise.
Making a moving coil transducer would daunt me and I would guess most people
on just the costs alone to do it 'properly'.
But if the goal is to do it for the fun of doing it as an end in itself,[obviously achieving a reasonable sound matters too
]then go for it!this was my motivation and boy has it been a fun,educational and
frustrating project.
And such things are sooo addictive ,once I had achieved a sound I just had to get it better.
I will shortly start work on my 4th version and still gain much pleasure listening to the MK3 versions.
So all you need is, money, tools, patience and time
Good luck with whatever route you decide on and above all have
fun
Setmenu
My suggestion would be to find an OEM parts supplier or manufacturer. They won't sell individual parts to the hobbiest, but you never know...
I would just say to use off the shelf parts; i.e motors, baskets, cones, surrounds, spiders, coils, etc. There are so many different types out there you could experiment for the rest of your life.
The only problem I see here is meeting the buy in costs for manufacturers.
If you are interested in going this route, drop me a PM
I would just say to use off the shelf parts; i.e motors, baskets, cones, surrounds, spiders, coils, etc. There are so many different types out there you could experiment for the rest of your life.
The only problem I see here is meeting the buy in costs for manufacturers.
If you are interested in going this route, drop me a PM
reply
I kind of made a speaker once.
I got a blown 12 inch from a car boot sale for only £2
Everything was fine except the burnt voice coil.
I carefully took it apart using a craft knife to off the card gasket attached to the surround and cone,then i desoldered the lead out braids at the terminals.
I left the spider[dampener] in place and removed the burnt voice coil,which was extremely hard to remove,because some of the burnt wires were jammed in the pole piece[but still attached luckerly].I finally pulled the burnt coil out with a pair of pliers.
I cleaned the pole piece with white spirit[although i'm sure it's the wrong stuff to use,but what the heck it's only a second hand £2 speaker].
Luckerly the aluninium voice coil former was not damaged at all.
So I went out and bought some Enamelled copper wire 28 gauge.
I pulled off all the burnt wire,and sanded off the remains.
Then I bought some high temperature epoxy resin glue,and put some on the voice coil former,then I wound the enamelled copper wire round the former until it got to the same point as the burnt one ended at both ends.
Then i carefully cut off the dust cap,and very carefully cut away the glue blobs from around the centre[without ripping the paper cone].
Then I stripped off both ends of the enalled copper wire,poked them through the centre of the cone and glued them to the centre of the cone,and attached the two ends to the terminals,and soldered them.
Next I lightly pushed in the voice coil,into the pole piece[attached to the former and cone [of course].
And put a few match sticks it align the voice and the surround,whilst i glued back the gasket and finally the dustcap after i removed the match sticks.
I tested it,it worked alright at low volumes,but when the cone was moving,i heard a scraping/scratchy sound coming from the voice coil.
So aligning the voice coil with the pole piece gap,is very hard to do with odd parts such as the wrong size copper wire.
So at least it was very cheap,and I think in the future I need some advice how to recone a speaker properly.
Although you can get recone kits with the spider,voice coil former,voice coil,dust cap,cone,surround,gasket already glued together.All you have to do is attached the wire braids to the terminals,glu the spider and surround to the frame and align the voice coil to the gap.Such kits are only really avaliable for poular speakers such as JBL,ElectroVoice[EV],Cerwin Vega,Eminence,Audax.
I kind of made a speaker once.
I got a blown 12 inch from a car boot sale for only £2
Everything was fine except the burnt voice coil.
I carefully took it apart using a craft knife to off the card gasket attached to the surround and cone,then i desoldered the lead out braids at the terminals.
I left the spider[dampener] in place and removed the burnt voice coil,which was extremely hard to remove,because some of the burnt wires were jammed in the pole piece[but still attached luckerly].I finally pulled the burnt coil out with a pair of pliers.
I cleaned the pole piece with white spirit[although i'm sure it's the wrong stuff to use,but what the heck it's only a second hand £2 speaker].
Luckerly the aluninium voice coil former was not damaged at all.
So I went out and bought some Enamelled copper wire 28 gauge.
I pulled off all the burnt wire,and sanded off the remains.
Then I bought some high temperature epoxy resin glue,and put some on the voice coil former,then I wound the enamelled copper wire round the former until it got to the same point as the burnt one ended at both ends.
Then i carefully cut off the dust cap,and very carefully cut away the glue blobs from around the centre[without ripping the paper cone].
Then I stripped off both ends of the enalled copper wire,poked them through the centre of the cone and glued them to the centre of the cone,and attached the two ends to the terminals,and soldered them.
Next I lightly pushed in the voice coil,into the pole piece[attached to the former and cone [of course].
And put a few match sticks it align the voice and the surround,whilst i glued back the gasket and finally the dustcap after i removed the match sticks.
I tested it,it worked alright at low volumes,but when the cone was moving,i heard a scraping/scratchy sound coming from the voice coil.
So aligning the voice coil with the pole piece gap,is very hard to do with odd parts such as the wrong size copper wire.
So at least it was very cheap,and I think in the future I need some advice how to recone a speaker properly.
Although you can get recone kits with the spider,voice coil former,voice coil,dust cap,cone,surround,gasket already glued together.All you have to do is attached the wire braids to the terminals,glu the spider and surround to the frame and align the voice coil to the gap.Such kits are only really avaliable for poular speakers such as JBL,ElectroVoice[EV],Cerwin Vega,Eminence,Audax.
As the last post points out, even the winding part is trickier than it looks. In fact, the voice coil and the gap between it and the magnet are the hairiest part of making a loudspeaker. Their manufacture has to be tightly controlled to get even mediocre results. This is one case where if you do it wrong, you'll know right away.
-Joe
-Joe
diy transducers
I've come across some sites that describe building tactile transducers by modifying subwoofers(removin cone and using metal to vibrate). Can anyone expalin to me the principle behind tactile transducers and whats the best way to make one. I want to use this for gamin purposes so can i build a tactile transducer for mid range frequencies
Thanks
I've come across some sites that describe building tactile transducers by modifying subwoofers(removin cone and using metal to vibrate). Can anyone expalin to me the principle behind tactile transducers and whats the best way to make one. I want to use this for gamin purposes so can i build a tactile transducer for mid range frequencies
Thanks
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