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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Loudspeaker project from scratch - driver construction, cabinet, & crossover
Loudspeaker project from scratch - driver construction, cabinet, & crossover
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Old 28th March 2003, 04:32 AM   #11
stokessd is offline stokessd  United States
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I'm not sure how easy it would be to get the magnet assemblies. There's a limit to the poundage of magnets that can be shipped. I believe that speaker magnets come "unmagnetized" and must be charged. If they were pre-magnetized, they couldn't be shipped by air at any point. You may be able to get "engineering samples" from a vender though.

For some evidence of this, check out Lambda acoustics site, where he has a home brew magnet charger:


FWI, tweeters and midranges are easy to build, I've been building my own electrostatic drivers for a while now. I'd never go back to monkey-box speakers after living with dipoles and ESL's.

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Old 28th March 2003, 04:46 AM   #12
Nappylady is offline Nappylady  United States
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Oh geez, magnet chargers...

When I build my shop, the magnet charger will be in its own room, and the label on the door will look like this:

WARNING: Magnet Charger Room

Authorized personnel only.
In all the rest of the shop, the only danger is if you do something stupid.
The equipment in here, on the other hand, might kill you for no reason at all.

Seriously though. My dad gets a lot (A LOT) of old dead or worthless hard drives in, and we keep the ultra-strong neodynium magnets. We've been looking for more useful uses for them for a while (more useful, that is, than teasing small children with them mwahahaa) and I think this might be the ticket.
If this works, you can say good-bye to cone breakup.
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Old 28th March 2003, 05:38 AM   #13
Hamish is offline Hamish  Australia
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yep. i like the idea. try using the baskets of old drivers to get started. maybe just redo the voice coil first, then try a bigger magnet. if all that works start looking at cones. carbon fibre or fiberglass are really easy to work with for this, but if you are extra keen (and there are metal spinners near you) try getting them to spin one up out of aluminium. i don't know if it is possible, but they may even be able to do the coil former and cone one piece. push bike inner tubes for surrounds.....

the list goes on.

i hope you make a go of it.

keep us posted.
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Old 28th March 2003, 07:46 AM   #14
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
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Loudspeaker project from scratch - driver construction, cabinet, & crossover
Default Re: Some clarification

Originally posted by UncleJessie
A previous post suggested that it might be easier to build a tweeter than a woofer.
The easiest driver to DIY is an electostat. Making a DIY moving coil driver is a daunting - but not impossible - task. Getting something that works well is a lot harder.

Even the boutique driver manufacturers are really more of skilled assemblers. Nick's Lambdas are one example. Another is the PEARL PR-2 woofer -- Bill actually sandcast and had made the baskets. Some of the other small bits he made himeself. But magnets (he magged them himself), cones, surrounds, coils, & spiders were all sourced from manuafacturers that specialize in making these parts.

Click the image to open in full size.

community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
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Old 28th March 2003, 11:58 AM   #15
setmenu is offline setmenu
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Hi UncleJessie
I too understand the desire to make absolutely every component
of a project, having made several pairs of ribbon transducers
for some diy headphones.
I suppose you have to be clear about why you are doing it though,
as such projects can become very costly unless all that is desired
is for the device too make a noise.
Making a moving coil transducer would daunt me and I would guess most people
on just the costs alone to do it 'properly'.
But if the goal is to do it for the fun of doing it as an end in itself,[obviously achieving a reasonable sound matters too ]then go for it!
this was my motivation and boy has it been a fun,educational and
frustrating project.
And such things are sooo addictive ,once I had achieved a sound I just had to get it better.
I will shortly start work on my 4th version and still gain much pleasure listening to the MK3 versions.

So all you need is, money, tools, patience and time

Good luck with whatever route you decide on and above all have

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Old 28th March 2003, 02:03 PM   #16
Nappylady is offline Nappylady  United States
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Okay, I'll bite. After all, I can't feign knowledge forever.

Electrostat = ?
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Old 28th March 2003, 02:26 PM   #17
JeremyD is offline JeremyD  United States
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My suggestion would be to find an OEM parts supplier or manufacturer. They won't sell individual parts to the hobbiest, but you never know...

I would just say to use off the shelf parts; i.e motors, baskets, cones, surrounds, spiders, coils, etc. There are so many different types out there you could experiment for the rest of your life.

The only problem I see here is meeting the buy in costs for manufacturers.

If you are interested in going this route, drop me a PM
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Old 29th March 2003, 03:06 PM   #18
Bull is offline Bull  United Kingdom
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Default reply

I kind of made a speaker once.
I got a blown 12 inch from a car boot sale for only 2
Everything was fine except the burnt voice coil.
I carefully took it apart using a craft knife to off the card gasket attached to the surround and cone,then i desoldered the lead out braids at the terminals.
I left the spider[dampener] in place and removed the burnt voice coil,which was extremely hard to remove,because some of the burnt wires were jammed in the pole piece[but still attached luckerly].I finally pulled the burnt coil out with a pair of pliers.
I cleaned the pole piece with white spirit[although i'm sure it's the wrong stuff to use,but what the heck it's only a second hand 2 speaker].
Luckerly the aluninium voice coil former was not damaged at all.
So I went out and bought some Enamelled copper wire 28 gauge.
I pulled off all the burnt wire,and sanded off the remains.
Then I bought some high temperature epoxy resin glue,and put some on the voice coil former,then I wound the enamelled copper wire round the former until it got to the same point as the burnt one ended at both ends.
Then i carefully cut off the dust cap,and very carefully cut away the glue blobs from around the centre[without ripping the paper cone].
Then I stripped off both ends of the enalled copper wire,poked them through the centre of the cone and glued them to the centre of the cone,and attached the two ends to the terminals,and soldered them.
Next I lightly pushed in the voice coil,into the pole piece[attached to the former and cone [of course].
And put a few match sticks it align the voice and the surround,whilst i glued back the gasket and finally the dustcap after i removed the match sticks.
I tested it,it worked alright at low volumes,but when the cone was moving,i heard a scraping/scratchy sound coming from the voice coil.
So aligning the voice coil with the pole piece gap,is very hard to do with odd parts such as the wrong size copper wire.
So at least it was very cheap,and I think in the future I need some advice how to recone a speaker properly.

Although you can get recone kits with the spider,voice coil former,voice coil,dust cap,cone,surround,gasket already glued together.All you have to do is attached the wire braids to the terminals,glu the spider and surround to the frame and align the voice coil to the gap.Such kits are only really avaliable for poular speakers such as JBL,ElectroVoice[EV],Cerwin Vega,Eminence,Audax.
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Old 30th March 2003, 12:12 AM   #19
redrumjoe666 is offline redrumjoe666
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As the last post points out, even the winding part is trickier than it looks. In fact, the voice coil and the gap between it and the magnet are the hairiest part of making a loudspeaker. Their manufacture has to be tightly controlled to get even mediocre results. This is one case where if you do it wrong, you'll know right away.

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Old 20th April 2003, 04:26 AM   #20
coursey is offline coursey  Barbados
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Default diy transducers

I've come across some sites that describe building tactile transducers by modifying subwoofers(removin cone and using metal to vibrate). Can anyone expalin to me the principle behind tactile transducers and whats the best way to make one. I want to use this for gamin purposes so can i build a tactile transducer for mid range frequencies

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