"Oliver" centre channel project

David Gatti · 12th August 2008, 10:38 AM

Here's my latest design which I'm planning to build in the next few weeks, if I can tear myself away from the Olympics.

Its designed to sit on top of my 50"plasma TV. The Tweeter is the Morel MDT37 , woofers are the Seas 12CY003

Basically I've arrived at this shape as a compromise between a horizontal WTW and a vertical WT.
The Morel tweeter has a plastic face, which I will route to allow the closest possible placement of the woofers.
The twin woofer design allows closer proximity of the tweeter, while giving a cone area equal to a single 6" driver.
The pyramid shape also looks less bulky when sitting on top of a flat screen TV.

So far, my simulations indicated arounf +/- 2dB deviation within 20 deg off-axis (vertical or horizontal).

kyrie48 · 14th August 2008, 05:39 AM

That's very nice... I've got some "side-by-side" designs on the back-burner myself. 2-way, right?

TTYL, kyrie

David Gatti · 15th August 2008, 01:28 AM

Thanks. Yep, it's 2 way.
I'm now thinking of using the Seas T25C003 (shallow waveguide) instead, as I don't think I need quite the depth in the MDT37's waveguide (to match the woofer's acoustic centres). Should have better off axis behaviour too.

kyrie48 · 15th August 2008, 02:39 AM

I was thinking the same thing, especially if the speaker is some amount higher than ear level. That Seas still has good coil depth, kinda like a "semi-horn". I really like the newer semihorn styles... I have 2 tweets with the "wide angle" faces, and love the way they align/blend/image with matching midwoofers.
Nice choice/s!

TTYL, kyrie

David Gatti · 18th August 2008, 11:08 AM

Yes, I've decided I will definitely go for the Seas, and it's kind of nice having an all-Seas design.

Making progress on the enclosure :

David Gatti · 21st August 2008, 07:43 AM

Finally ready for painting

David Gatti · 21st August 2008, 07:48 AM

Back :

David Gatti · 21st August 2008, 07:51 AM

I'm about to start trimming the Seas tweeter faceplate, in the area where it overlaps the woofer cutouts. It is about 6mm think (aluminium or steel, I'm not sure).

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to do this. Would a regular router do the job?

kyrie48 · 21st August 2008, 03:40 PM

I did a plastic tweeter's faceplate, using what's called a "Wizzard"(made by Black & Decker). A hand-held or stationary sander/drill/etc with a small sanding drum will do nicely.
I'd be afraid of using a router!!

TTYL, kyrie

Hezz · 21st August 2008, 09:28 PM

I think a band saw would be the best thing for getting most of the material out. Probably the safest to. You can lay the tweeter flat on the table on the backside, assuming it has a flat back, and the blade only moves in one direction towards the table which makes for smooth predictable cuts. Then you can clean it up with a dremel or file.

If you can remove the faceplate of the tweeter then about any method will work since there is not much chance of damaging the tweeter.

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14th August 2008, 05:39 AM	#2
kyrie48 diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2006	That's very nice... I've got some "side-by-side" designs on the back-burner myself. 2-way, right? TTYL, kyrie

15th August 2008, 01:28 AM	#3
David Gatti diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Melbourne, Australia	Thanks. Yep, it's 2 way. I'm now thinking of using the Seas T25C003 (shallow waveguide) instead, as I don't think I need quite the depth in the MDT37's waveguide (to match the woofer's acoustic centres). Should have better off axis behaviour too.

15th August 2008, 02:39 AM	#4
kyrie48 diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2006	I was thinking the same thing, especially if the speaker is some amount higher than ear level. That Seas still has good coil depth, kinda like a "semi-horn". I really like the newer semihorn styles... I have 2 tweets with the "wide angle" faces, and love the way they align/blend/image with matching midwoofers. Nice choice/s! TTYL, kyrie

21st August 2008, 07:51 AM	#8
David Gatti diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Melbourne, Australia	I'm about to start trimming the Seas tweeter faceplate, in the area where it overlaps the woofer cutouts. It is about 6mm think (aluminium or steel, I'm not sure). Does anyone have any suggestions on how to do this. Would a regular router do the job?

21st August 2008, 03:40 PM	#9
kyrie48 diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2006	I did a plastic tweeter's faceplate, using what's called a "Wizzard"(made by Black & Decker). A hand-held or stationary sander/drill/etc with a small sanding drum will do nicely. I'd be afraid of using a router!! TTYL, kyrie

21st August 2008, 09:28 PM	#10
Hezz diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Utah	I think a band saw would be the best thing for getting most of the material out. Probably the safest to. You can lay the tweeter flat on the table on the backside, assuming it has a flat back, and the blade only moves in one direction towards the table which makes for smooth predictable cuts. Then you can clean it up with a dremel or file. If you can remove the faceplate of the tweeter then about any method will work since there is not much chance of damaging the tweeter.

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