I just completed (except for painting) a center channel that would be small enough for my wife to appreciate it's unobtrusiveness, yet have plenty of gut for it's size. I used two little Tang Band 3" full range drivers (the ones with the neodymium magnet and the semi-transparent light brown cone. I think they sound exceptionally good, but I am now tempted to fuss with them a little bit to see what I can get out of them.
I had been talking to some people earlier about crossing over one of the drivers so that only one of them would be running the majority of the upper frequencies, because I had heard that that could be detrimental to the sound, or maybe the dispersion. I remember seeing some M&K monitors that had a pair of tweeters and a pair of mids and between the tweeters was a foam block, I assume to stop immediate combining of the waves from the drivers. Does anybody have any knowledge concerning these M&K speakers or why exactly they did that? Would it help with my drivers, which currently are both running full range?
I had been talking to some people earlier about crossing over one of the drivers so that only one of them would be running the majority of the upper frequencies, because I had heard that that could be detrimental to the sound, or maybe the dispersion. I remember seeing some M&K monitors that had a pair of tweeters and a pair of mids and between the tweeters was a foam block, I assume to stop immediate combining of the waves from the drivers. Does anybody have any knowledge concerning these M&K speakers or why exactly they did that? Would it help with my drivers, which currently are both running full range?
At higher frequencies, as the distance between their driver acoustic centers become large relative to wavelength, linear arrays begin to develop lobes along the array axis and narrowing dispersion along that axis. This is why side-by-side mounting of same-band drivers in most center channels is a bad deal--it causes narrow horizontal dispersion and uneven off-axis response.
M&Ks arrays are verticle, so the narrowing dispersion is less of an issue. I suspect the foam between the treble units is there to take some of the bite out of the strong top and bottom lobes that would otherwise form.
M&Ks arrays are verticle, so the narrowing dispersion is less of an issue. I suspect the foam between the treble units is there to take some of the bite out of the strong top and bottom lobes that would otherwise form.
i see some people posting 1.5 way systems using tangbands. in this case teh second driver is for baffle step compensation. the cut off freq is usually about 300Hz. hope this helps.
i am thinking of using 3 tangbands in a horizontal array. the center tangband will be full range and the ones flanking the center tb will be rolled off.
which tb did oyu use. why did oyu choose it. i also have severe space contraints. my wife actually wnted to get teh bose acoustimass system. i figured i could build a better system.
right now i am looking at the w3-871 or the w2-924
i am thinking of using 3 tangbands in a horizontal array. the center tangband will be full range and the ones flanking the center tb will be rolled off.
which tb did oyu use. why did oyu choose it. i also have severe space contraints. my wife actually wnted to get teh bose acoustimass system. i figured i could build a better system.
right now i am looking at the w3-871 or the w2-924
I've been planning on some line arrays using cheapo PE full-range drivers. I'd like to experiment with various sizes and shapes of acoustic foam between drivers--maybe even very thick protruding pieces that overlap the cones, leaving perhaps only 1" horizontal slits for HF to pass. Since foam's absorbtion increases with frequency, I'm hoping a little tuning would significantly control vertical HF lobes and perhaps even compensate for the baffle step.
Tang Bands
I am using the W3-881S's. They are the little 3 inchers with the light-brownish cone. I have them in a little enclosure that uses 3/4 inch MDF on the front baffle and the back, and just 1/4 inch Masonite on the sides and top and bottom to keep the enclosure from getting too tall ( I think it was masonite, it looks like MDF but it appears to be denser). I think it is more than adequate because those peices are small and that wood is still really dense. I wiired the speakers in series side by side wiith no crossovers or anything. Got a little pad of carpet padding inside on the back, and then it is stuffed with acousta-stuff. I think it sounds awesome. I can't hear any real reason to use a crossover anywhere. I mean I am sure there are measureable differences, but not that I can hear from any reasonable seating position in the room. I used the speakers pretty much just because I had them. No other reason. But I love them, and they can handle the meanest movie soundtrack I throw at them. Highly recommended.
I am using the W3-881S's. They are the little 3 inchers with the light-brownish cone. I have them in a little enclosure that uses 3/4 inch MDF on the front baffle and the back, and just 1/4 inch Masonite on the sides and top and bottom to keep the enclosure from getting too tall ( I think it was masonite, it looks like MDF but it appears to be denser). I think it is more than adequate because those peices are small and that wood is still really dense. I wiired the speakers in series side by side wiith no crossovers or anything. Got a little pad of carpet padding inside on the back, and then it is stuffed with acousta-stuff. I think it sounds awesome. I can't hear any real reason to use a crossover anywhere. I mean I am sure there are measureable differences, but not that I can hear from any reasonable seating position in the room. I used the speakers pretty much just because I had them. No other reason. But I love them, and they can handle the meanest movie soundtrack I throw at them. Highly recommended.
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