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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 1st August 2008, 04:32 PM   #121
Salas is online now Salas  Greece
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You said the magic word ''convenient''. I would add ''versatile'' too. That explains a lot. But many people think that those benefits make passive to be a dated choice. It is just another way (where applicable), and has it's own tricks up its sleeve.

Very nice clean room. The Nathans look well proportioned for that space. I would suggest sturdier stands with more pillars.

What is your subwoofer(s) plan?
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Old 1st August 2008, 04:44 PM   #122
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Hi salas,

Quote:
Originally posted by salas What is your subwoofer(s) plan? [/B]
I have 4 of these (sorry, the page is in German):

http://www.mehlau.net/audio/sub_peerless_sls-10/

The Peerless SLS-10 faces the floor. The whole sub will be monted on casters so it can serve as a stool too.

Best, Markus
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Old 1st August 2008, 05:01 PM   #123
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Quote:
Originally posted by salas


Head and shoulders above average, those suggestions.



The active way is the only way when we talk outdoors reinforcement in the kW range. There, the dissipation of the passive networks is a major reliability issue. Passive is no slouch for quality otherwise. And keeps things simple in one box. Also there are some passive impedance traps and other techniques that are not handy with active.
We're thinking similarly.

I suggested those because of that, I see most systems on here that are active don't stray far from the Berry. Why would you use a digital active xover for a two-way system anyway? It seems a bit pointless, when you get even more spekaers playing in tighter bands then a digital active xover is warranted, the Berry is commonly seen as a bargain but then you step up to:
dbx and bss and void
then xta
then the dolby lake

'Outdoors.....kW range'
That's what I do and why I've only ever used a passive when building low wattage home use or small reflex tops. PA systems start at 3-way and can get to 8-way, and the settings change when one goes on tour. There's only one way to do that sort of thing, lots of amps and some active xovers.

But I digress greatly, sorry.

Dr. Geddes, B&Q do woodcuts quite accurately though I don't think there might be one nearby you. My advice is to try to avoid the ones with cheap vertical saws, the accuracy isn't as good i have found. Good luck! Those waveguides are big now I look at them.
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Old 1st August 2008, 05:07 PM   #124
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Although this is off topic, regarding CNC, you don't have to spend a lt to get a 4x8 table CNC. We have a shopbot PRT96 that I paid about $8000 for at the time and upgraded. You an get the PRS96 for $9800 now. The PRT96Alpha for about $15,000 is the fastest CNC under $50,000. Don't need to spend a lot of money to get a decent CNC. You can also do a DIY CNC for quite a bit less. Plans are at CNCZone and you can find them at http://www.machinetoolcamp.com. For small quantities though it may not be practical. I started out doing small quantity cabinets and kits. The cost of the CNC was a good amount at first, but it was a lot cheaper over the course of time than paying an employee to do the work. My time is much better spent doing things other than cutting wood myself. The CNC allows me to start the machine and keep working on something else while it does the cutting.

Anyway, this is a very simple cabinet to cutout though. There is really nothing that would require a CNC. Just straight panels and round cutouts. A good table saw will hold .010" tolerances very easily. A Jasper jig will give you perfect circles every time if used properly. To do a kit well though you need to be able to to test fit everything. For DIYers the whole pocket hole screw option would be best. Simply assemble the whole cabinet that way. All holes are predrilled and aligned. The cabinet can be dry assembled, all edges routed, then disassembled and packaged. Then the customer can easily repeat the process. The Kreg Jig kit is available for less than $75.

John
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Old 1st August 2008, 05:11 PM   #125
gedlee is offline gedlee  United States
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Never heard of B&Q. Those are the small waveguides. The smallest that I would ever use.
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Old 1st August 2008, 05:13 PM   #126
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Yes we are going a bit overboard for a square cab with two holes and rounded edges.
This could be done easily with hand tools.

Festool make very nice jigs.

My neighbour has one, i borrow it for small quick jobs.
It's accurate as a razor blade and the design is quite clever.
It can accept routers and circular saws.

Enough free advertisement for now.
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Old 1st August 2008, 05:15 PM   #127
gedlee is offline gedlee  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by markus76
Hi salas,



I have 4 of these (sorry, the page is in German):

http://www.mehlau.net/audio/sub_peerless_sls-10/

The Peerless SLS-10 faces the floor. The whole sub will be monted on casters so it can serve as a stool too.

Best, Markus

Markus

Those appear to be a good choice, but if the woofer faces down won't that completely change the FR that is shown?

If you could tune one up a little higher that would help. But I would be most concerned with the detuning effect of the floor gap.
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Old 1st August 2008, 05:16 PM   #128
Salas is online now Salas  Greece
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B&Q is UK. Praktiker is Germany.
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Old 1st August 2008, 05:20 PM   #129
Salas is online now Salas  Greece
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Quote:
Originally posted by markus76
Hi salas,



I have 4 of these (sorry, the page is in German):

http://www.mehlau.net/audio/sub_peerless_sls-10/

The Peerless SLS-10 faces the floor. The whole sub will be monted on casters so it can serve as a stool too.

Best, Markus

They are lending themselves for a Geddes distributed blend in the modal region along unfiltered mains.
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Old 1st August 2008, 05:57 PM   #130
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Quote:
Originally posted by gedlee Those appear to be a good choice, but if the woofer faces down won't that completely change the FR that is shown?
All people I talked to denied an effect if the gap to the floor is big enough. I even tried to quantify the effect by calculating a bandpass woofer with the dimensions this downfiring sub represents. There was no effect on the frequency response.

I think you calculated a couple of such systems. Will there be a destructive effect on the frequency response of a sub when facing the floor?

Best, Markus
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