Electronic Crossover frequency values for 2-way speakers?

[Brit01]

I'm interested in setting up a bi-amp system to drive a pair of Kipsch F-1 2-way speakers.

Planning to use 2 power amps (1 for lower frequencies and other for higher) connected to an electronic crossover module.

Now I'm not sure how to set this up.

After I remove the bridge piece of the speaker terminals I connect the cables from the 2 power amps.

Now my question is how to set the frequency crossover points and does the speaker have an internal protection for out of range frequencies once the bridge is removed. ie for the high frequency connection; if the frequency range is too low (set on the electronic crossover) will it damage the tweeter or be filtered out within the speaker circuits?

[Nelson Pass]

Originally posted by Brit01
After I remove the bridge piece of the speaker terminals I connect the cables from the 2 power amps.

Now my question is how to set the frequency crossover points and does the speaker have an internal protection for out of range frequencies once the bridge is removed. ie for the high frequency connection; if the frequency range is too low (set on the electronic crossover) will it damage the tweeter or be filtered out within the speaker circuits?

This is the full range forum, which is perhaps why you have not
seen any response.

If the Klipsch speakers have two sets of input terminals that are
strapped in parallel, I think they expect you to use their internal
crossovers, in which case you would not be using an electronic
filter, rather you would potentially be using two amplifiers, each
delivering the same full range signal to passive crossovers.

Given the characteristics of Klipsch, this is probably not going to buy
you a lot of performance increase, but it should work fine.

If you really want to use an active crossover, it looks like you have
to go in and bypass the passive crossover they give you. You also
will probably be bypassing any tweeter protection at the same time.

I don't know what crossover frequency and slope you will want. If
my experience is any indication, you start with the factory spec
and adjust it until it sounds good. If you care about the results
very much, a highly adjustable crossover is what you want.

[Brit01]

HI Nelson,

Yes I realised I posted this in the full range and later reposted it in the other section

Thks for the info.

My doubt now is that if there is no real great benefit bi-amping using the built in crossover then why do these companies build their speakers with this?

Cheers

[OzMikeH]

Marketing for low-end zero technical ability audiophiles. So they sell more monster cable to them.

[SY]

I've moved the thread to a more appropriate spot.

Doing biamping correctly is NOT trivial. Doing it half-@$$ed is not beneficial. The Rod Elliot article is a decent introduction and will give you an idea of the scope of the problem. IMO, biamping is most useful for bass-to-midrange transition, but if I were to try to get rid of a mid-to-treble passive crossover and go active, I'd use a digital crossover like a Behringer to get the electrical response correct.

[Brit01]

That makes sense. Usual marketing traps.

So in conlusion the only way to go is to use an electronic crossover feeding into the power amps.

[Brit01]

Thks Sy.

Tried moving the thread yesterday but wasn't able to.

[Brit01]

Still can't make my mind up on the amp power.

1) Phonic Max250 - 60 watts x 2 at 8 ohms (will be buying 2 amps to upgrade with X-over at a later date.

2) Behringer A500 - 160 watts x 2 at 8 ohms (2 again)


As my Kipsch are so sensitive maybe I get away with the Phonic amps and save myself 180 USD.