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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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hi there,
i´m new here and first i have to say the discussions here are often far more interesting than in other boards. back to topic. i recently bought a pair of peerless hdse 6-33/08, formerly peerless 180 exclusive. here in europe they renamed it that way, dont know if its the same in the usa and the rest of the world. the exclusives were an advice of someone really familiar with hifi and everything around it. my dipole subwoofer (constructed by him) is crossed at 80hz electricaly. furthermore the advice was to make the cabinet closed. my question is: has anybody got a project in hands for this kind of driver in a 2 way construction? maybe i will give the seas 27tdfc a try but i dont have an exact idea at this moment. fabric would be my favoured material. i´m also really interested in a new developement. it would be my first attempt. an mce2000 measurement mic and preamp is existing, but i´m in the learning phase right now. a little bit of help would be appreciated greetz, flexus |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Indiana
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How about Peerless HDS 810921? I have a 2-way design with these drivers:
http://www.geocities.com/woove99/Spk...s_HDS_2Way.htm A 10 liter box should work for sealed. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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hi jay
nice to speak to you. for sure i already know your design. its in the first row of the chosen ones. my only problem with it was to choose such a quality driver for my first elopeme.. i mean developement having it on my list, having it on my list |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
http://www.rjbaudio.com/Audiofiles/FRDtools.html http://www.geocities.com/woove99/Spkrbldg/ With the files from Jay's link and for the Seas tweeter : http://www.rjbaudio.com/Extremis/extremis.html You should be able to simulate a good crossover and tune it. The Seas is a good choice if the budget is tight, IMO the bass/mid should cost more than the tweeter for maximum cost effectiveness. Note that both Jay's and RJB's designs using the Seas suppress the extreme treble, however the simpler approach taken by Zaph is to design for an off axis response see : http://www.zaphaudio.com/audio-speaker16.html And arguably an overall better power response, YMMV. My speakers point straight ahead and seem to work best that way in my room and placement, its something than can be designed for, it seems there is always more than one way of doing it "correctly". Speaking of which possibly RC in parallel with L2 in Jay's c/o might be a lower component count way of suppressing the output around 800Hz, presumably finding a ideally suited and therefore cheap high DCR inductor for L1 is not easy. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Indiana
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flexus,
If you want, I can model 830883/27TDFC for you because I have all the response files. It will be very easy. I can also send the SW file for you to play with. -jAy |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Indiana
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Quote:
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
Its a bit disheartening to find different data sheets for the 830883 : http://www.tymphany.com/files/products/pdf/830883.pdf http://www.madisound.com/pdf/peerless/830883.pdf |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Indiana
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I used Zaph's measurement:
http://www.zaphaudio.com/6.5test/830883-FR.gif Pretty much the same as the first one you posted (more recent one posted at Tymphany site). Good consistency, here. The hump in my sim is also due to a diffraction hump from a 8.5" wide baffle I used for this sim. Attached is my simulated in-box response of the 830883. A problem with an RC approach is that it also suppresses the 1.2 kHz dip greatly. A high Q, dampened notch at 800 Hz suppresses the hump but doesn't affect the 1.2 kHz dip since it helps to form an LP rolloff with a bit high Q "knee." -jAy |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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hi
didnt get the time writing earlier. you guys are fantastic, do you know? sreten, the distortions of the seas from 6k on are pretty high, but i guess it has the advantage of learning something about distortions in return. if a good DCR inductor is needed i should take a look here in the german speaking countries if something good is available. maybe mundorf or intertechnik got some of them. if its needed for the design i would buy it for sure. my options in speaker placement are nearly endless, god bless.. my room measures around 20m² (215sqft) and roomheight of 3m (118inches). the dipole sub stands in the middle of my room. i had the feeling this works best. the plan for the 830883/27tdfc combination is to use it while sitting at the pc. if the drivers are my taste i would target this one in the future NaO mini imho mtm is never a mistake. i heard lots of them and always had to say they are good. jay, man, a very nice offer from you developing a box with this drivers.. i would really apreciate it if you could send me the sw files too. (is it possible with private message?) it would be the first thing i build. the 27tdf is nearly ordered. |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Indiana
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Quote:
Can you email me for the sw file? I can work on this xover on these weekends. -jAy |
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