I have tried Troel's revised crossover and used the "silver" version of the mod.
It's clear what Troel has done here and understandable from the point of view of aiming for a more technically accurate frequency response. Having said that I have reverted back to stock except for replacing the mid capacitors with 22uf Mundorf Supremes, and thoroughly cleaning out the mid and tweeter pots with electrical circuit cleaner.
To my ears, in my system, this sounds substantially more transparent than Troel's set up, very close to original, with a smoother and more natural midrange, and no harshness at all. The lack of any distortion or cabinet colouration, and fabulous transparency are what set these speakers apart.
I use a single ended tube amp with the Yamahas that has 845 output tubes, so around 24 watts. The sound is sublime with serious bass and drive. To fill out the bottom octave I have an REL sub which has it's volume set very low.
Transistor amps in my experience don't do these speakers justice, and as I suspect we all know the NS1000M takes no prisoners and will let you know that whatever you have connected to them better be good or else!
Just my observations but I would not change them for anything else I've heard (and that's quite a lot of so-called high end gear).
It's clear what Troel has done here and understandable from the point of view of aiming for a more technically accurate frequency response. Having said that I have reverted back to stock except for replacing the mid capacitors with 22uf Mundorf Supremes, and thoroughly cleaning out the mid and tweeter pots with electrical circuit cleaner.
To my ears, in my system, this sounds substantially more transparent than Troel's set up, very close to original, with a smoother and more natural midrange, and no harshness at all. The lack of any distortion or cabinet colouration, and fabulous transparency are what set these speakers apart.
I use a single ended tube amp with the Yamahas that has 845 output tubes, so around 24 watts. The sound is sublime with serious bass and drive. To fill out the bottom octave I have an REL sub which has it's volume set very low.
Transistor amps in my experience don't do these speakers justice, and as I suspect we all know the NS1000M takes no prisoners and will let you know that whatever you have connected to them better be good or else!
Just my observations but I would not change them for anything else I've heard (and that's quite a lot of so-called high end gear).
The original adhesive (glue) used in Yamaha NS1000 woofers gives away in tropical countries due to the heat and age.
Have read this happens in case of the mids too. Also in the west too,
When the glue gives away the magnet shifts from its center alignment. The first symptom is loss of bass.
When it progresses the speaker cone gets scratchy and can be found out by gently pressing it in centrally with open fingers where you can feal the voice coil rubbing on the sides giving a scratchy noise.
When this happens the only remedy is to remove the magnet, re-center it and re-glue it. This has to be done by a professional.
For those lucky people whose woofers, mids and tweeters are functioning perfectly, I can suggest a precautionary measure to keep the magnets glued in place for many more years to come.
You can do this by using a two part mixing epoxy adhesive like Araldite. What you need to do is to apply a barrier externally around both sides of the magnets by applying the epoxy.
First you need to take out the drivers and lay them flat on a surface. cone facing down and then apply the epoxy round the external perimeter of the magnet where it sticks to the metal flanges. Otherwise it might pour down to unwanted places. In case of the woofer repeat of the process is recommended as the magnet is huge.
When this is done. even if the original glue looses its adhesion the new epoxy will keep the magnets centered in place.
Some may think that I am over cautious, but we should look after such valuable treasures such as the Yam NS1000 as these are unobtanium if lost, forever.
Have read this happens in case of the mids too. Also in the west too,
When the glue gives away the magnet shifts from its center alignment. The first symptom is loss of bass.
When it progresses the speaker cone gets scratchy and can be found out by gently pressing it in centrally with open fingers where you can feal the voice coil rubbing on the sides giving a scratchy noise.
When this happens the only remedy is to remove the magnet, re-center it and re-glue it. This has to be done by a professional.
For those lucky people whose woofers, mids and tweeters are functioning perfectly, I can suggest a precautionary measure to keep the magnets glued in place for many more years to come.
You can do this by using a two part mixing epoxy adhesive like Araldite. What you need to do is to apply a barrier externally around both sides of the magnets by applying the epoxy.
First you need to take out the drivers and lay them flat on a surface. cone facing down and then apply the epoxy round the external perimeter of the magnet where it sticks to the metal flanges. Otherwise it might pour down to unwanted places. In case of the woofer repeat of the process is recommended as the magnet is huge.
When this is done. even if the original glue looses its adhesion the new epoxy will keep the magnets centered in place.
Some may think that I am over cautious, but we should look after such valuable treasures such as the Yam NS1000 as these are unobtanium if lost, forever.
Referring to the video in the last post:
When I listen to my set of NS-1000M’s, I can’t say that I notice any of the defects that he pointed out in the measurements. Is it really as bad as he makes it out to be?
At the end of the video, he mentions that he’s selling kits that improve the sound. These kits range from $800 to $1000.
I’m not familiar with this gentleman. Does he have a good reputation?
When I listen to my set of NS-1000M’s, I can’t say that I notice any of the defects that he pointed out in the measurements. Is it really as bad as he makes it out to be?
At the end of the video, he mentions that he’s selling kits that improve the sound. These kits range from $800 to $1000.
I’m not familiar with this gentleman. Does he have a good reputation?
The waterfall plots show you stored energy or ringing that is being added on top of your signal and a driver coloration
that shouldnt be there.
This will be audible and some get used to it because they layed down the long green without knowing any better
Danny does a great job in clearing up speaker issues with solid proof thru clear presentable measurements and that’s worth something IMO
that shouldnt be there.
This will be audible and some get used to it because they layed down the long green without knowing any better
Danny does a great job in clearing up speaker issues with solid proof thru clear presentable measurements and that’s worth something IMO
That was not just tweaking but a full new crossover replacement proposal which changes the sensitivity and the character of overall response. Not sure how it can be done successfully just on measuring and simulating for a day and then being so sure its the proper update on such a classic. Peter Comeau went through 174 iterations for the crossover of the Mission 770 reissue for example.
If you have a look at Troels' project, it will be evident from his measurements that the drivers don't measure "hi-fi" (many modern drivers measure more smoothly). He only provides frequency response and impedance measurements, whereas DR in his video also shows waterfall plots. There are commonalities with DR's and TG's measurements. However, Troels did not report an energy-storage issue with the mid. I always thought that the NS-1000 could be improved upon. For me it came down to 3 things: (a) the woofer is suited to ported or transmission line alignment - I would redesign the enclosure, (b) the high crossover frequency to the tweeter and (c) the early roll-off of the tweeter's top end (though I must say that you don't actually hear this). I feel that the tweeter can be bested by many high-end tweeters commonly available to DIYers today. I would also have evaluated a different crossover topology (I feel that 4th order crossovers do a good job of controlling driver bandwidth though, woofer/mid-wise, the original topology is probably dictated by the driver choice).
My criticisms of DR's upgrades are:
(1) I hope that, given the age of the speaker, he would have confirmed that the measured mid resonance is also manifested in the other speaker.
(2) He glossed over the cabinet construction and never mentioned construction quality of the drivers (he clumsily slaps on some of his "no-res" pads, claiming it should improve panel resonance).
(3) He was dismissive of the quality of the crossover. But that is his nature.
(4) Given the iconic status of this speaker, I would have expected a before/after subjective comparison. He should have at least interrogated what the hype is all about. I found this disrespectful - at best, ignorant. But my bad for having unrealistic expectations, knowing his MO.
Good morning. This is my first post on the forum and this seems the right thread.
If I wished to replace the capacitors for the tweeter, midrange and woofer on my Yamaha NS1000, could someone provide a direct link to the appropriate capacitors? I do not wish for boutique marques, just high-quality, durable, reliable capacitors that will retain the original values demanded in the Yamaha crossover.
Many thanks.
If I wished to replace the capacitors for the tweeter, midrange and woofer on my Yamaha NS1000, could someone provide a direct link to the appropriate capacitors? I do not wish for boutique marques, just high-quality, durable, reliable capacitors that will retain the original values demanded in the Yamaha crossover.
Many thanks.
Nobody seemed to answer here, but i am in the same process right now and from what i understand the only caps that need to be replaced are the woofers black electrolytics. If you want to retain the original sound signature of the speaker, keep the rest as it won´t degrade with age.
Feel free to correct me, this is what i gathered from reading through 10s of threads on that subject and hopefully will help somebody else before doing the same
Feel free to correct me, this is what i gathered from reading through 10s of threads on that subject and hopefully will help somebody else before doing the same
I experimented for many months with a variety of new capacitors and the original ones, as well. try it and you will find the sound you like. I eventually replaced all of them, as the original ones were out of spec. and I could hear the difference. I settled for Jantzen Audio Silver Z-Cap 800VDC - 2% tolerance. Humble Homemade Hifi has many suggestions. it all boils down to what sounds good to you.