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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 16th March 2003, 07:36 PM   #1
SlouGan is offline SlouGan  Canada
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Default Can I reuse this enclosure

Hi
I got a pair of 20year old AKAI speakers (10" woofer and 3/4" tweeter set), when I rip if open I only saw one 8uf cap as xover...the sound is terribly bad and all surroundings on the woofer is wore off. Since it is impossible for me to do the box myself I think I might reuse the enclosures to make a new pair (10"woofer and 1" tweeter), the enclosure is about 1.1cu. My questions are: Is is practical to do them? Is there a design for this type of combination out there?
All answers are welcome...thx
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Old 16th March 2003, 09:34 PM   #2
SlouGan is offline SlouGan  Canada
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Ok, Let me rephrase it this way: I have a pair of enclosures with front opening for one 10" and one 3/4", it's about 1.16cu. now I am going to buy a new 10" woofer and a new 3/4" tweeter (budgetary line), How can I get a crossover design? I am pretty sure that these kind of combination (10" + 3/4") is pretty rare nowadays....this AKAI had only one 8uf cap on the tweeter side as its crossover, imagine in the good old days...
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Old 16th March 2003, 09:57 PM   #3
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There should be lots of resources via google that could suit you. I remember Madisound used to do crossovers and I found this link on their site. Looks like as good a place as any to start. http://www.mhsoft.nl/spk_calc.asp#crossover

Zalytron and Madisound have tons of drivers but a 10" generally starts at $50 and goes way up. You might try to find some decent poly cone woofer from MCM. I'm not sure about the aluminum cones but with a surface treatment those are supposed to not be bad either. Given the nature of your project, I would lean toward budget woofers.

The tweeter cutout can be modified so you can use a more standard 1" tweeter.

You might want to assess the box construction. What is the wall thickness? Is there any bracing? You might want to construct some bracing out of wooden dowels as they would be the easist to retrofit.
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Old 16th March 2003, 10:37 PM   #4
SlouGan is offline SlouGan  Canada
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Thanks,

I surely will check out these sites you pointed out, it will be a great help to me!

The enclosure has no brace inside, only a piece around 10" disk stick to the rare wall behind the tweeter (looks like the 10" cutout from the woofer), and it is made out of 3/4" or 7/8" plywood. I think adding some braces inside is a good idea because it is quite big in volume...
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Old 16th March 2003, 11:23 PM   #5
herm is offline herm  United States
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http://www.speakerpage.com/S10141.htm

I've never used them, but it may be a good start ...
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Old 17th March 2003, 12:35 AM   #6
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My recommendation would be to just glue/fasten a piece of plywood over the front (baffle). Then use some existing 2 way design, maybe even a kit, and cut new mounting holes for the drivers. I would try for a sealed design, covering any vent that was in the enclosure. Otherwise, you'll have to do a whole bunch of work to reverse-design drivers and crossovers for that enclosure, and you'll probably spend more than you thought it would cost.
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Old 17th March 2003, 12:52 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by leadbelly
My recommendation would be to just glue/fasten a piece of plywood over the front (baffle).
I too would recommend this... one trick i have used is to cover the front & back and then make the side of the cabinet the front.

The cabinets for these are usually way too small (to introduce a nice "bloaty" midbass peak) so a 6.5" 2-way or even a full-range (this would be a good one for the famous Delco 6x9 (often found at garage sales for a couple loons ) A pr of Radio-Shack 40-1197s in a bipole should work not bad either (with a little help on the top).

dave
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Old 17th March 2003, 01:15 AM   #8
SlouGan is offline SlouGan  Canada
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Quote:
Originally posted by leadbelly
I would try for a sealed design, covering any vent that was in the enclosure.
Leadbelly,
Sorry I fotgot to mention this is a sealed box. So you suggest that I cover the 10" hole and cut a say 6.5" on top of it for the xover design? Thanks.


Quote:
Originally posted by planet10

The cabinets for these are usually way too small
dave
Dave,
This box is around 1.164cu ft (11" x 9.5" x 19.25"), isn't it too large for a 6.5" 2-way? I am a bit confused here, could you please elaborate a bit more? Thanks.
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Old 17th March 2003, 01:28 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by SlouGan
This box is around 1.164cu ft (11" x 9.5" x 19.25&quot, isn't it too large for a 6.5" 2-way? I am a bit confused here, could you please elaborate a bit more?
Depends entirely on what 6" you use. I did just this with a 2.3 cu ft box that had a 12" stuffed into it. Took a 6" i had salvaged, tricked it up, added some open-back Audax tweeters i had laying around -- used a simple cap XO at about 6k. In the end i had to make the box aperiodic because the 6's Q in the big box was still a bit high (it started out high), and got something surprisingly good (the 6s were originally stuffed into a MUCH smaller box where they didn't work nearly as well). One of these days i'll actually finish them off (my brother is using them and won't let me take them away)

It is hard to have a sealed box that is too big.

dave
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Old 17th March 2003, 01:29 AM   #10
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SlouGan,

No, I meant cover the whole front with a rectangular piece of wood, and then cut 2 new holes in that for the drivers. If you take the time to pull out those plastic snaps for your grill, you can drill 4 new holes in the new piece of wood, put in those snaps, and reuse the grill.

That is a great trick for covering the front and back, Dave, I had not thought of it. It is just perfect for 2 old duds I have here.
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