A new thread for this item.
Has anybody used this? It has apparently been around for a while but only recently discussed for using in FR setups.
GM gave an MLTL sim for a cabinet.
I'd be trying to use it stock in some cabinet makings I have.
'Been looking for a project in the 5" range and the newer Fostex
is too rich for my blood.
Has anybody used this? It has apparently been around for a while but only recently discussed for using in FR setups.
GM gave an MLTL sim for a cabinet.
I'd be trying to use it stock in some cabinet makings I have.
'Been looking for a project in the 5" range and the newer Fostex
is too rich for my blood.
Data sheet
Is there a data sheet for this driver?
I've never navigated the Tangband site with much success.
At PE (Parts Express) the a-b-c measurements look off.
"A" should be the overall flange width. B should be the screw centers
and C is the depth.
But B looks to be 2 plus inches different than A. Perhaps 4 7/8 is the
hole cutout which would make sense. It does not make sense for the
Screw center measurement.
If I did this, It'd be a piece I made with a 5 in hole saw. The cutout for the test box is exactly 5 1/4.
Is there a data sheet for this driver?
I've never navigated the Tangband site with much success.
At PE (Parts Express) the a-b-c measurements look off.
"A" should be the overall flange width. B should be the screw centers
and C is the depth.
But B looks to be 2 plus inches different than A. Perhaps 4 7/8 is the
hole cutout which would make sense. It does not make sense for the
Screw center measurement.
If I did this, It'd be a piece I made with a 5 in hole saw. The cutout for the test box is exactly 5 1/4.
I did a simple little 2 way using these and the Vifa DX25 here: http://htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=28282
Fairly easy driver to work with and doesn't do anything offensive. Bass is decent given the size, but you run out of xmax quickly.
Fairly easy driver to work with and doesn't do anything offensive. Bass is decent given the size, but you run out of xmax quickly.
loninappleton said:
I modeled a 2.5-way design with three different tweeter options, posted here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=116235
The designs are in posts #8, #16, and #48.
I used Zaph's measurement of its old shielded version (W5-704S), but as I mentioned in post #61, according to Zaph's new measurement, there's virtually no difference between the old S and new non-shielded D versions in their FR and impedance responses. With tweaking only the tweeter padding resistor by ear, you'll be good to go.
'Tis true. I can't speak for its bass response, since I only used it as an open-back mid, but for that purpose, it's quite good. As mentioned before, it needs very few XO parts.augerpro said:
But whatever you do with it, DO NOT USE TANG BAND'S MEASUREMENTS. They are awful, and will totally lead you astray. I'm sure Zaph's measurements would work, though. Or, you could build a box and measure them yourself
Here are the Aethers
http://undefinition.googlepages.com/diy-aethers
-Paul
Undefinition said:
'Tis true. I can't speak for its bass response, since I only used it as an open-back mid, but for that purpose, it's quite good. As mentioned before, it needs very few XO parts.
But whatever you do with it, DO NOT USE TANG BAND'S MEASUREMENTS. They are awful, and will totally lead you astray. I'm sure Zaph's measurements would work, though. Or, you could build a box and measure them yourself
Here are the Aethers
http://undefinition.googlepages.com/diy-aethers
-Paul
I enjoyed the write up very much and wisht I was closer to
some of the live events.
I will try to find Zaphs' measures but if you had them handy, maybe
GM would have a different sim for me.
I never could find anything on Zaph.
He only lives 30 miles away it's almost easier to call him.
I see my topic got moved. This does not bode well for a full range project (which was what I intended.)
Oh well, no hardware bought yet and just fiddling with scraps.
But from what the Aether piece gave, it indicated that the TB only needed reinforcement from below. With one of GM's MLTL designs
I don't consider that a real problem. There's always a BIB sitting in the
corner.
What is interesting with these OB designs is that they are moving toward a simpler rather than more complex build process.
I still prefer the single driver setup with no electronics.
Zaph does not see this as a true option but I've found the MLTL to be the most satisfying of builds.
He only lives 30 miles away it's almost easier to call him.
I see my topic got moved. This does not bode well for a full range project (which was what I intended.)
Oh well, no hardware bought yet and just fiddling with scraps.
But from what the Aether piece gave, it indicated that the TB only needed reinforcement from below. With one of GM's MLTL designs
I don't consider that a real problem. There's always a BIB sitting in the
corner.
What is interesting with these OB designs is that they are moving toward a simpler rather than more complex build process.
I still prefer the single driver setup with no electronics.
Zaph does not see this as a true option but I've found the MLTL to be the most satisfying of builds.
loninappleton said:
Considerably, though the nature of MLTL's being what they are, about all they really mean is that less BSC is required. Backed up against a wall though, they would probably need a longer vent, but then I consider fine tuning the vent in-room is almost always a part of DIY speaker building:
GM
Attachments
GM said:
Cool. Well I might order one then. Far as tuning, I have lots of PVC pipe around yet. I like putting them int he bottom.
What kind of BSC would be needed on a wide baffle front with
rounded edges? That's the build style I have going: quarter round
on the face.
As stated, I'm cobbling things together from found objects and cutoffs.
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