GM said:
Thanks and thanks for the follow up. This baby is getting bigger.
It would certainly be a fresh build rather than the scraps (not long enough) that I have.
I should pop for a Martin King subscription just for the work
you, GM, put into these things.
This looks like a lot of wood for a 5.5 in driver.
48 inches long (about the same as my BIBs with additional 8 in
extensions
15 inches down
Figure 8 in wide by 5 inches deep internal dimensions
The leg extensions give room to stick the port in the bottom.
Last time I bought wood it was on deal. Haven't seen any fresh deals. I will be sure to save this off so I don't have to go looking for it later.
cheers.
You're welcome!
Seems fair, some others have.........
Yeah, the relatively high Qts needs room to 'breathe'....... Back in the naive days of DIY speaker building there was a really nice sounding 8" RadioShack driver that they recommended a 1 ft^3 sealed cab for, but I got to experimenting and wound up with a 6 ft^3 pipe horn tuned to ~27 Hz that really wowed folks, but it did look rather lost on its 30" wide baffle.
FWIW I've built many a project with scrap from a large commercial construction site for either free or next to nothing since they have to pay to dispose of it.
GM
Seems fair, some others have.........
Yeah, the relatively high Qts needs room to 'breathe'....... Back in the naive days of DIY speaker building there was a really nice sounding 8" RadioShack driver that they recommended a 1 ft^3 sealed cab for, but I got to experimenting and wound up with a 6 ft^3 pipe horn tuned to ~27 Hz that really wowed folks, but it did look rather lost on its 30" wide baffle.
FWIW I've built many a project with scrap from a large commercial construction site for either free or next to nothing since they have to pay to dispose of it.
GM
GM said:
Those are good sorts of places to get 'sonotube' for making subs.
Most of what I see in the rubbish looks like, well, rubbish.
In the 'next to nothing' department, how do you negotiate for the stuff you want to haul off?
I have a memory from when I was a kid and they were taking down the brewery ( I bet they wish they had that back instead of the
police station) and on a weekend some dad and his kid were out cleaning bricks to make a barbeque or something.
Around here even though the area is well off (meaning not in the bread line yet) people pick junk. I do it. My neighbors do it.
And there's freecycle too.
Well, much of the time I had an architect buddy that allowed me to 'cherry pick', but I had to take the 'wheat with the chaff', i.e. a full truckload, so if you don't have a yard/whatever big enough to store/separate it into various piles or a neighborhood covenant that prohibits such 'trash piles' period, then all you can do is work the best deal you can or get an architect buddy. 
Of course you must have a city/county garbage collection service that will pick up what you don't want either as part of the regular trash or for only a small surcharge. That, or a pick-up/mini-van/whatever and nearby landfill. A nearby metal recycler to recoup some of your costs is a nice perk too.
GM
Of course you must have a city/county garbage collection service that will pick up what you don't want either as part of the regular trash or for only a small surcharge. That, or a pick-up/mini-van/whatever and nearby landfill. A nearby metal recycler to recoup some of your costs is a nice perk too.
GM
The project is on hold til PE gets the Tangband back in stock on or around July 15th.
If someone wants to sell one off or trade you can respond to the thread.
Since I'm making a test box with some things I have around that go pretty close to the original measures (ie not a floor stander) I'd be
sticking to that. There may not be the bass extension for a larger box
but the goal is to actually find a happy medium between clarity
of a smaller tuned box and boominess from a larger one ( something that has been a criticism of the VTL for instance.)
I have no knowledge of how to make crossovers but maybe
if this topic gets going I'll add on something to the smaller cabinet design.
If someone wants to sell one off or trade you can respond to the thread.
Since I'm making a test box with some things I have around that go pretty close to the original measures (ie not a floor stander) I'd be
sticking to that. There may not be the bass extension for a larger box
but the goal is to actually find a happy medium between clarity
of a smaller tuned box and boominess from a larger one ( something that has been a criticism of the VTL for instance.)
I have no knowledge of how to make crossovers but maybe
if this topic gets going I'll add on something to the smaller cabinet design.
back in stock
The W5-704D is back instock at PE as of today.
Though this thread is moved, the goal is still to use it as "an
only" to get music reproduction.
Over on Loudspeaker Full Range they have talk about a
Tangband full range 5 In for about 4 times as much.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=117926
I would buy Fostex any day over TB in that price range.
However, making a 5 in. for less than a Fostex 4 in. has lead me to want to do this project.
No responses on my offer to trade 2 TB 871 3 inchers for one
W5-704D so I may have to buy new.
Today I'm looking for some hand holding.
In anyone's considered opinion will this driver _play music_
by itself with measured freq of 13,000hz? I'm asking about
actual usable human hearing range to play jazz and classical quartets and symphonies.
The W5-704D is back instock at PE as of today.
Though this thread is moved, the goal is still to use it as "an
only" to get music reproduction.
Over on Loudspeaker Full Range they have talk about a
Tangband full range 5 In for about 4 times as much.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=117926
I would buy Fostex any day over TB in that price range.
However, making a 5 in. for less than a Fostex 4 in. has lead me to want to do this project.
No responses on my offer to trade 2 TB 871 3 inchers for one
W5-704D so I may have to buy new.
Today I'm looking for some hand holding.
In anyone's considered opinion will this driver _play music_
by itself with measured freq of 13,000hz? I'm asking about
actual usable human hearing range to play jazz and classical quartets and symphonies.
GM are you on this thread yet?
I am looking for the original sim for this driver-- not the big box one but
the more compact first edition simmed from what was said to be
bad specs from TB.
Can you repost that since this thread has been banished from full range?
And yes I have tried search. Search is useless for me on most boards-- give the driver model and zero comes up.
Anyway, back in the shop I took one of my old MLTL boxes from the
original FE127e and slapped in one of those 50 cent Panasonics I got to make line arrays (bought 16.)
I'm using a boom box as a source. The sound isn't too bad considering all the considerings.
Other thing is a new TB that is a 4 inch but way up there in price
on their 'new' list. It hasn't materialized at PE yet but the price is posted at $77 ea.
I am looking for the original sim for this driver-- not the big box one but
the more compact first edition simmed from what was said to be
bad specs from TB.
Can you repost that since this thread has been banished from full range?
And yes I have tried search. Search is useless for me on most boards-- give the driver model and zero comes up.
Anyway, back in the shop I took one of my old MLTL boxes from the
original FE127e and slapped in one of those 50 cent Panasonics I got to make line arrays (bought 16.)
I'm using a boom box as a source. The sound isn't too bad considering all the considerings.
Other thing is a new TB that is a 4 inch but way up there in price
on their 'new' list. It hasn't materialized at PE yet but the price is posted at $77 ea.
The way to search drivers is to break it up. IOW I inputted W5 in the 'Search for items including these words:' box and 704D in the 'and optionally containing these words:' box, then looked in any thread from the 'fullrange' forum and found it in the BIB thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1542000#post1542000
Sometimes you have to get creative to overcome some code writer's need to express himself through what I perceive is obtuse programming.
A $77 TB?! It's going to have to be pretty special to make it worth $54/pr. more than the CSS FR125ST IMO.
GM
Sometimes you have to get creative to overcome some code writer's need to express himself through what I perceive is obtuse programming.
A $77 TB?! It's going to have to be pretty special to make it worth $54/pr. more than the CSS FR125ST IMO.
GM
GM said:
Ok. But I don't think I'll ever get search right. I don't think of the
right keywords.
But while we're at it here, the new item from TB is a four inch and very flat with a different style cone membrane. What came to mind was it's application for a compression chamber BIB that they've been talking about: a driver that takes up considerably less space.
I'll go dig up the link with the numbers and such....
http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1230_04/w4-1757s.htm
Costing is at PE and the item is not due until 8/26.
That's a full range but nobody has talked about it. I am not partial Tangband but I'd like to work with a 5 in. and this woofer item in this thread is at a good price point.
Maybe would fiddle with one of those button tweeters if there was some how to for that.
On the Mathcad front, I did get the program again and MJK sent me a sample file. I didn't get it or how to work with variables. Just not skilled enough. Like Dirty Harry says, "A man has to know his limitations."
For sure you'll never get the 'search' right with your current attitude. Like I said, you have to break up hyphenated words, number systems.
WRT using MJK's worksheets (WS), they do indeed look intimidating, I freaked out the first time I saw them with (all?) the underlying 'Greek' (to me) math for the fields on the early freeware versions before he was forced to protect it all from the rip-off 'scumbags', but not being 'smart' enough to not try different things to see what happens it didn't take long to realize that to input driver, etc., data all you need to do is highlight what you want to change and type/enter the new data and if you ever bother to get a licensed copy of MathCad you can make copies of them to easily customize them to be more time efficient/'friendly' to you, such as changing field descriptions or how you input or even calculate something. Its tutorials are truly impressive, even severely math challenged me has been able to program some simple formulas to change how some things are calculated, such as the port's area on a couple of the WSs. Of course the originals aren't changed, I save it as something else, then when it's done I save it again as a master just in case I totally FUBAR the one I actually use.
I mean if you screw something up and can't figure out how to fix it or wind up making it worse all you have to do is close the WS without saving it, then open it back up to start fresh all over again, though of course any other changes you may have made are lost also whether it's the demo or a licensed version.
Anyway, there's enough folks on the forums far more familiar with MathCad than me and I imagine most (all?) will answer any Qs you may have, so don't let the various WS's 'strangeness' keep you from effectively using them. They're so simple to use once the 'lightbulb' turns on you'll be 'kicking' yourself for ever being intimidated by them, or at least me and some others I know about did.
Also, with the demo I guess you know you can't save any sim you do per se, but you can save it in its entirety into a WORD (and I assume an Open Office doc) to refer back to if you think you may want/need it in the future.
WRT the TB, based solely on just its published data, I'm going to stick with the FR125S preference for now since its FR is at least as smooth with a lower Fs and a ton more (relatively speaking) usable low distortion excursion, though for low power you'll probably prefer a more efficient driver. FWIW, me and my buddy Buzz who currently has them in a ~48" MLTL system I originally built for him using much tweaked 40-1354s prefer a low Q notch centered at 2 kHz to offset the typical vocals emphasis ('shout') of most CDs.
GM
WRT using MJK's worksheets (WS), they do indeed look intimidating, I freaked out the first time I saw them with (all?) the underlying 'Greek' (to me) math for the fields on the early freeware versions before he was forced to protect it all from the rip-off 'scumbags', but not being 'smart' enough to not try different things to see what happens it didn't take long to realize that to input driver, etc., data all you need to do is highlight what you want to change and type/enter the new data and if you ever bother to get a licensed copy of MathCad you can make copies of them to easily customize them to be more time efficient/'friendly' to you, such as changing field descriptions or how you input or even calculate something. Its tutorials are truly impressive, even severely math challenged me has been able to program some simple formulas to change how some things are calculated, such as the port's area on a couple of the WSs. Of course the originals aren't changed, I save it as something else, then when it's done I save it again as a master just in case I totally FUBAR the one I actually use.
I mean if you screw something up and can't figure out how to fix it or wind up making it worse all you have to do is close the WS without saving it, then open it back up to start fresh all over again, though of course any other changes you may have made are lost also whether it's the demo or a licensed version.
Anyway, there's enough folks on the forums far more familiar with MathCad than me and I imagine most (all?) will answer any Qs you may have, so don't let the various WS's 'strangeness' keep you from effectively using them. They're so simple to use once the 'lightbulb' turns on you'll be 'kicking' yourself for ever being intimidated by them, or at least me and some others I know about did.
Also, with the demo I guess you know you can't save any sim you do per se, but you can save it in its entirety into a WORD (and I assume an Open Office doc) to refer back to if you think you may want/need it in the future.
WRT the TB, based solely on just its published data, I'm going to stick with the FR125S preference for now since its FR is at least as smooth with a lower Fs and a ton more (relatively speaking) usable low distortion excursion, though for low power you'll probably prefer a more efficient driver. FWIW, me and my buddy Buzz who currently has them in a ~48" MLTL system I originally built for him using much tweaked 40-1354s prefer a low Q notch centered at 2 kHz to offset the typical vocals emphasis ('shout') of most CDs.
GM
Well the practice file I have is unrelated-- just a sample to fool with.
As to search I don't mean to be baulky about it, I've just seen a lot of searches come up empty and so avoid it.
And yes I am intimidated by CAD prog.s
I have seen the CSS 125 etc. for a long time but have also seen
mixed reports on it.
For an experimental setup the TB comes in at a good rate but
OTOH I don't want to have it as a paperweight either.
Those 50 centers are sounding better and better. I may stick one in the double baffle BIB.
As to search I don't mean to be baulky about it, I've just seen a lot of searches come up empty and so avoid it.
And yes I am intimidated by CAD prog.s
I have seen the CSS 125 etc. for a long time but have also seen
mixed reports on it.
For an experimental setup the TB comes in at a good rate but
OTOH I don't want to have it as a paperweight either.
Those 50 centers are sounding better and better. I may stick one in the double baffle BIB.
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