First project Hatt-SE's - got a couple of questions

[GTI666]

Hello guys, attempting my first diy speaker project and have to say im im loving every minute, well so far anyway ;-)

Ive decided to build a pair of Tony Gees Hatt-SE's. The reason I chose these was basically a nice compact speaker thats fairly easy to construct but using good quality components so I should hopefully not be dissapointed when they are finished and hooked up to my system.

This maybe a stupid question but Tonys original design uses 22mm mdf for cab and 10mm mdf for port. I have only been able to get 18mm and 9mm mdf, i have redone the dimensions to keep the internal dimensions the same. Baring in mind im using the excact same XO and drive units will this have an adverse affect on the XO values frequency response etc? If so will it be noticeable or should I be able to get away with it?

Also ive been struggling to decide on how to mount the XO inside the cabinet, is their a general rule for this, as a novice I wasjust thinking of using some of the 9mm mdf to mount all the components for XO (dont know if this will work) use some motherboard standoffs left over from my pc build. Or is it a good idea to just install the XO components directly to the inside of the cabinet?

Only one other thing, these small compact speakers I will admit do seem to cost a fortune. Im in for 500gbp for everything, does that sound right or have I got mug written across my forehead lol

BTW Thanks for your help youve already given without even realising (the search button ) :

[holtet]

I would guess using thinner MDF is OK since the cabinets are really small. I considered these myself, but am now building with 6.5" seas excel and scanspeak tweeter instead. And using 30mm MDF.
What I noticed to make a huge difference when knocking the panels was to add bitumen pads to the inside. This make them more dead. So you might consider adding the extra thickness by using such pads.

If not, what matters most is the internal volume and the dimension on the baffle. (and also placement of the drivers on the baffle). In other words, make your version less deep.

The crossover I would mount to a thin piece of mdf or similar and screw tightly to the back. This will keep wiring as short as possible and keep the crossover away from the drivers so they don't interfere.

Regards,
Robin

[rjb]

Its best if you don't simply make the walls thinner. Its not just a matter of panel resonance, but also sound transmission. Add solid material of some sort to reduce the latter, as well as the normal wall damping of course. Simply glue it on internally, so looks don't matter, and almost anything such as hardboard will do.

I've just discarded a set of 12mm ply boxes that were far too transparent.

[GTI666]

Thanks for your input, ive ordered a load bitumen pads and tyrofoam, and also going put some sort of stuffing in. Hopefully that will do the job.

Is their a particular type of wire I should use in the XO? Is normal (decent quality) speaker wire ok or should i try and avoid using hardly any wire atall?

[sreten]

Originally posted by rjb

I've just discarded a set of 12mm ply boxes that were far too transparent.

Hi,

With enough wall damping (bitumen pads, solid vinyl flooring, similar)
such boxes can sound remarkably good in the midrange but show
some midbass punch reticence and are arguably somewhat polite.

Not to be discounted, long term listener fatigue is low, and the
overall midrange quality better than solid undamped boxes. Well
suited to classical / radio speech/drama, just do not do metal.

/sreten.