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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 8th June 2008, 03:08 PM   #21
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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Quote:
Originally posted by tinitus
.. its much better to use the whole space with as much distance between the coils as possible
absolutely.

even placing the different driver filters onto separate mounting boards will help.

orient the coils in different directions X Y Z axes through individual coils.

Split the filters/drivers into separate circuits, allowing future use of bi-wiring or even passive bi-amping.
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Old 8th June 2008, 05:30 PM   #22
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Hi,

If youre interested, i did a design with Peerless 6" and 1" HDS drivers for DanskAudioTeknik last year.


HDS kit

Its the last of the 4 kits, on the page.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 9th June 2008, 02:28 AM   #23
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Gee thanks, I think. Ill look at the 1st Xover and I may remake the whole unit.
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Old 9th June 2008, 09:36 PM   #24
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I think what Ill do is reorient the coils on the 2nd Xover board to the optimum xy axis and redo the 1st board to match it.
The enclosures are nearly done in their raw state and Ill clad/finish them on my next break in 8 days.
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Old 9th June 2008, 10:33 PM   #25
tinitus is offline tinitus  Europe
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Sounds wise

Remember that optimally only 2 coils can oriented correct, but 3 coils is doable, so the ones that doesnt "fit in the picture" should ofcourse be those far apart
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Old 10th July 2008, 01:20 AM   #26
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Talking Finished project

Well they are done and running. They sound great. Ill let em run in and listen to more music before making any comparisons.

The cabinets are 19mm MDF and the baffles are MDF reinforced Marri (Western Australian redgum). They match the rest of the furniture. Im going to do a set of shelf 2 ways for general use and use Sheoak.

LINK: http://s252.photobucket.com/albums/h...t=DSC02416.jpg

http://s252.photobucket.com/albums/h...t=DSC02415.jpg

Thanks to all who helped, with a big thank you to Jay
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Old 13th July 2008, 04:10 PM   #27
Jay_WJ is offline Jay_WJ  United States
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Wow, those look great, Steve!

BTW, you centered the tweeter without an offset. In this case, the speaker's on-axis response will be a little different from what I designed, due to different diffraction patterns. A bit of off-axis listening with no (or very small) toe-in will help flatten the response.

And will you share some more details of your build? For example,

- Did you use exact crossover component values as specifed in the schematic? What kind of coil did you use for L2?
- Did you use default values for C9 and R10, or tried other values?
- Cabinet dimensions and internal volume?
- Bass tuning frequency (or port tube diameter and length)?

jAy
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Old 20th July 2008, 01:07 PM   #28
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Default Build

I used the closest/exact specs in the schematic for all values. The only exception was the coil D2 and was a Perfect Layer 1.2mH 14ga and was from parts-express.
I havnt played with the resistors and have stuck with the default C9 as I have run out of time and oomf, they do sound good, very good. The material is MDF 18mm, dimensions; 320mm deep 240mm wide and 1100mm high. They have 4 large cross braces internally and 80mm (dia) 120mm long ports. The internal surfaces are lined with high density foam underlay and have an audio filler (not sure what it's called).The baffle is (removable) a laminate of 18mm MDF and a wood native to this area called Marri. The woofer holes are chamfered at the back as per Zaphs recommendations. The cable is the thickest copper cable I could stomach having lying around the loungeroom, (it would handle 3 phase 410 volt no sweat)
Im happy with the result. Thanks for the help.
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