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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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Seen various incarnations on teh web on speaker stabilizers/outriggers for around the $130us + range.
Thought I'd work out how to build my own... anyway, these are my base idea. Probably powder coated, but sitting the speakers on the bars, maybe have to make bolt threads in the base of the speakers, or just sit them on the stands... not sure in that department. m10 bolts with the ends grinded to a point, springs, 2 or 3mm steel, nuts undernead weilded onto bars. anyway here's some pickies... |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Instead of welding nuts to the bars, why not just tap the bars? It would make it look a lot cleaner in my opinion.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
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Are these supposed to isolate the speaker vibrations from the floor? If so, those aren't going to do a thing.
BUT If you're just trying to make some fancy supports that will allow you to suspend and level the cabinets, I'd recommend using some socket head cap screws (or one of the fancier styles of mechanical fasteners), and lose the spring since it's doing nothing. Just tap your horizontal supports, and use a jamb nut (thinner than a regular nut) on the underside so you'll never see it. But that's just my 2 cents worth. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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The spring is just to keep the bolt in a firm postition, ie if I crank up the bass, I would assume the bolt will rattle around the nut and 'self adjust' :-)
But as the enclodures are going to be on wood floor, probably some 1/2 squash balls will do the trick :-), but just thought of an easy idea I could wip up in the farm shed for zero cost. But they may end up on my down stairs concrete floor. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
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Good to hear.
Just an FYI though: If you're capable of drilling and tapping for threads, you can make them an interference fit, or once again, use a jam nut so you don't the springs, longer bolts, and washers. Just a little detail that should help streamline the looks. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Use nylock nuts on it too.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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They don't look very toe friendly. Wood seems friendlier. Not sure what problem you're trying to solve, but aren't you better off placing some bags with lead shot inside the speakers for stability? These look like they'd have some leaf spring effect.
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
Why not just use 3/4" CRS stock (I'd like to see you bend those with speaker for which you don't need a forklift to move). Drill and tap for whatever thread size your favorite spike / footer uses (Madisound has a fairly decent selection for cheap) With that much thread contact, lock nuts would probably not be necessary http://www.madisound.com/catalog/ind...?cPath=117_121 Counter bore a couple of holes for cabinet mounting screws and powder coat or electroplate plate finish and you're done. I recently has a set made up with welded cross supports for a pair of line array cabinets, and used an industrial furniture glide with a slotted top for adjustment from the top side - very handy when the cabinet is 7ft tall and weighs 80lbs
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you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: The Wilds Of Canada
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Leggin's fer a speaker that exceed the base size of a tall floor stander is just good physics--IF the legs are solidly attached to the speakers.
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"Never forget that only dead fish swim with the stream." -- Malcolm Muggeridge. "Truth cannot be brought down, rather the individual must make the effort to ascend to it." -- Jiddu Krishnamurti |
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