Update: I've decided to go through with my plan to modify them from passive to active, with the use of a minidsp unit. I would be interested, though, in hearing whether there are specific drivers you think are suitable for speakers of this kind, in case I ever would get the itch to upgrade the drivers even further.
Still not finished the project. But I found out that the weakest link in the speaker was the tweeters. So I just purchased new tweeters that are significantly better than the originals, from the same manufacturer (Morel). And I ordered a box from minidsp which will be used for crossover and equalization. I plan to have a hifi repairman do the actual modding, and then fine tune the speaker with minidsp afterwards. Can post updates when I get results!
more recent example
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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I have been thinking of trying something like this, in mono, using a large full range driver (I have a AN15"). I'm wondering if I want the speaker horizontal or tilted. I figure that horizontal is OK if the speaker is low enough so that at normal listening height the dispersion at high frequencies is good enough for the listener to receive direct sound - is this your understanding too ?
Secondly, does it damage a speaker to have the suspension taking the full weight of the cone permanently if mounted horizontal - I'm thinking of large drivers here, 8" and above ?
Secondly, does it damage a speaker to have the suspension taking the full weight of the cone permanently if mounted horizontal - I'm thinking of large drivers here, 8" and above ?
Shouldn't vertical mounting be worse and voice coil prone to get missalined, but still this is the normal way to mount drivers. Sonab/Carlsson mounted driver facing up since the 60's and lots of them playing and sounding lovely still!
Just flip the speaker up side down every now and then if you feel concerned.
Stiff suspension probably helps against cone sag (in any direction) and the AN 15" has stiff suspension I guess.
Just flip the speaker up side down every now and then if you feel concerned.
Stiff suspension probably helps against cone sag (in any direction) and the AN 15" has stiff suspension I guess.
Remake/over of the OD11 by teenage design.
https://www.teenageengineering.com/products/od-11
Heard these the other day at my local audio store. I liked them, not to pricey either taking in account that they are active and has cloud for streaming music. Easy on the ears and eyes as well.
https://www.teenageengineering.com/products/od-11
Heard these the other day at my local audio store. I liked them, not to pricey either taking in account that they are active and has cloud for streaming music. Easy on the ears and eyes as well.
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try both - the result depends on many factors - that particular loudspeaker's directivity, room acoustics, listening distance etc.
I expect such a big speaker to be very directional, still Radugazon's test show that it can work:
no, it doesn't, no problem
new Swedish flooder:
OD-11 - Teenage Engineering
http://assets.sbnation.com/assets/1967869/OD-11_Flyer.pdf
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from another thread (referring to his single driver upward firing ceiling flooder):
Your original, How would you refine it, is it just the unfinished box your find crude or did you further develop this ?
Your original, How would you refine it, is it just the unfinished box your find crude or did you further develop this ?
the pictured speaker is not mine, it's just an example of how simple this can be - a fullrange in a simplest box
it can be even simpler actually as diyaudio user Radugazon has demonstrated - he used big bare, unboxed, fullrange driver actively equalized, see post #3372 above in this thread
the original of mine was Fostex FE207E in a simple box, actively equalized
afterwards I used KEF UniQ minimonitors and KEF installation speakers in simple enclosures, no equalization
then I bought WLM Diva Monitor - one of the very few commercial speakers that meet my requirements for this application - simple coaxial minimonitor and at least 8 inches
(I listen in stereo now but there was quite long period when I had a mono setup)
When choosing the right coax for the flooder, can we use its polar map for indication if it will work how it supposed to be? If so, what would be the ideal graph? Something like this?
Speaker directivity / off axis response: theory and measurement techniques - Acoustic Frontiers
= the more constant SPL through 200-20000Hz in most wide off-axis-angle, the better? So the ideal would be 0dB in 90° of whole 200-20000Hz?
Speaker directivity / off axis response: theory and measurement techniques - Acoustic Frontiers
= the more constant SPL through 200-20000Hz in most wide off-axis-angle, the better? So the ideal would be 0dB in 90° of whole 200-20000Hz?
it is desirable for it to have higher directivity but smooth
like 8-10 inches coincident or near-coincident coaxial, then You can play with tilt and elevation to obtain optimum results
OTOH:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...upled-up-firing-speakers-338.html#post4894351
Finnish flooder with Eminence Beta CX8:
[automatic translation:] "The Beta-8CX also acts as an upside-down omnidirectional loudspeaker. The correct placement is then low, on the floor or on the top"
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
[automatic translation:] "The Beta-8CX also acts as an upside-down omnidirectional loudspeaker. The correct placement is then low, on the floor or on the top"
I'm currently working on something similar for my HT. 
..a 14 foot "sound bar" for the front 3 channels that's somewhat dipolar.
4 horizontally opposed fullrange drivers per channel with a higher "Q" midbass driver (also "up-firing" and just "in front of" the small full-range array) to augment the lower midrange and upper bass.
I've not settled on height yet, but I suspect it will be around 15" off of the floor. I'm guessing seated listening angle to the drivers should be somewhere between 70 and 50 degrees off-axis.
The HT Receiver has eq., reasonable power out, and the drivers are reasonably efficient in this configuration (about 93 db average) and represent an easy load (with impedance not going lower than about 7 ohms). So I'm hoping for a reasonably flat response at the listening position down to about 80 Hz along with decent "headroom".
The open-baffle nature of the design was because:
1. I had drivers from previous projects that could handle this, and
2. I didn't want the bass droning-into my tenant's apartment - which is common/connected to my home (..the open end of the "sound bar" at one end is at 90 degrees/null for the design facing the apartment's connected door).
-I'll be adding tactile bass transducers for each of the seats for sub-bass effects that should NOT be "thumping" into my tenant's apartment (with floor isolation on the feet of each seat).
I'm working on the wiring right now (..it's a LOT of wire to cut/strip/connect), the baffles are already done (with the driver's mounted), but the frames and casing aren't.
I'm also doing four surround channels (each with the same horizontal array of the same fullrange drivers as the soundbar) for the ceiling. Those will be IB with rear-output going into the attic-space. FS is about 110 Hz for those drivers so bass shouldn't be a particular problem (..or at least that's what I hope).
..a 14 foot "sound bar" for the front 3 channels that's somewhat dipolar.
4 horizontally opposed fullrange drivers per channel with a higher "Q" midbass driver (also "up-firing" and just "in front of" the small full-range array) to augment the lower midrange and upper bass.
I've not settled on height yet, but I suspect it will be around 15" off of the floor. I'm guessing seated listening angle to the drivers should be somewhere between 70 and 50 degrees off-axis.
The HT Receiver has eq., reasonable power out, and the drivers are reasonably efficient in this configuration (about 93 db average) and represent an easy load (with impedance not going lower than about 7 ohms). So I'm hoping for a reasonably flat response at the listening position down to about 80 Hz along with decent "headroom".
The open-baffle nature of the design was because:
1. I had drivers from previous projects that could handle this, and
2. I didn't want the bass droning-into my tenant's apartment - which is common/connected to my home (..the open end of the "sound bar" at one end is at 90 degrees/null for the design facing the apartment's connected door).
-I'll be adding tactile bass transducers for each of the seats for sub-bass effects that should NOT be "thumping" into my tenant's apartment (with floor isolation on the feet of each seat).
I'm working on the wiring right now (..it's a LOT of wire to cut/strip/connect), the baffles are already done (with the driver's mounted), but the frames and casing aren't.
I'm also doing four surround channels (each with the same horizontal array of the same fullrange drivers as the soundbar) for the ceiling. Those will be IB with rear-output going into the attic-space. FS is about 110 Hz for those drivers so bass shouldn't be a particular problem (..or at least that's what I hope).
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