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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Norlane; Geelong: Victoria: Australia
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Hi ttan98, I could just put them together but I'm trying hard to improve my woodworking skills, as noted earlier i am thinking of using my Vifa P-13's in a clone of the "Eathers" and just seeing how an OB sounds I do like the mid-range, I'm going to make another pair soon using some surplus drivers that are much better than these, perhaps same configuration perhaps just a combination of only three drivers, the more drivers the easier it is to make mistakes I guess.
Don't worry about your woodworking skills; post your photos's; we just like to see what everyone else is building. People are free to come round and comment and critique; just email me to arrange a time, we really do need to have a Melbourne get - to - gether like the crew is Brisbane regards Ted
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QUOTE" The more I know, the more I know, I know (insert maniacal laugh >here<) NOTHING" |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
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Hi Moondog, you could try a series xover;
In my OB WWMTM, I used 150uF in parallel with the two woofers; these connected in series to the two Ms and 3mH in parallel and the T in series with 3.3uF. (LF Xover @ ~150Hz) You could try various combinations of your 3 & 5.6mH coils to get the sound you want. Judicious use of the bass tone control is a more efficient way of controlling lows, rather than huge inductors across your woofers. Cheers, Pete McK
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‘today… there lives alongside the twentieth century the tenth or thirteenth. A hundred million people use electricity and still believe in the magic power of signs and exorcisms” Trotsky |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Norlane; Geelong: Victoria: Australia
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I am thinking that if I just rewire the bass section as a nominal 8R load it will be close enough, experimented late last nite and the 5.6 coil in combination with a parallel cap of 10uF and that seemed to work.
The bottom woofer did not predominate as I thought it might, must be that change from 2Pi to 4Pi that gives the 10inch a presence without overpowering. The bass these cheap drivers give in a small room is surprising, if I was allowed to buy more woofers ( WAF ) I'd consider another unit using Jaycars really cheap 12inch paper cone with a Qts of 1.46 they sound even more suitable for OB use.
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QUOTE" The more I know, the more I know, I know (insert maniacal laugh >here<) NOTHING" |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
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That Jaycar driver is what I used; however, they're getting rid of them, they're on special at the moment for $25, but may not be in all stores...
__________________
‘today… there lives alongside the twentieth century the tenth or thirteenth. A hundred million people use electricity and still believe in the magic power of signs and exorcisms” Trotsky |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Norlane; Geelong: Victoria: Australia
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Peter how many of the 12inch did you use? and how did you wire them, where did you cross them and to what?
My local Jaycar owner has a few of the paper 12inch left (6 or 8 of them) I was thinking I'd need at least 4 a side for the power handling, but at $20 each thats only $160-
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QUOTE" The more I know, the more I know, I know (insert maniacal laugh >here<) NOTHING" |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
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I used a 12" jaycar and a 10" 'no-name' driver per side for woofers, 2x ancient 8" Magnavox for mids, and a EV 35T horn tweeter, wired as in post 15 above.
Baffle design is similar to the Visaton 'No-Box'. 2 are OK for bass (enough to get comments from the neighbours
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‘today… there lives alongside the twentieth century the tenth or thirteenth. A hundred million people use electricity and still believe in the magic power of signs and exorcisms” Trotsky |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
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Original thread here, with pic:
I couldn't bear to throw them away... (I've changed the tweeter since then)
__________________
‘today… there lives alongside the twentieth century the tenth or thirteenth. A hundred million people use electricity and still believe in the magic power of signs and exorcisms” Trotsky |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Norlane; Geelong: Victoria: Australia
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Resurrecting this to comment about the driver selection I made.
I used some very cheap woofers and mid ranges, after finishing the crossover and tweking for a few hours listening I cranked the volume for a short while, "BBLAAATTT" a surround tore off one of the woofers and the paper was flopping around like a fish out of water. Thats what I get for using only 2 $20 woofers in an open baffle and a 200 watt amp. The woodwork has a few resonce issues but too good to scap, I have some slightly better drivers here ( Jaycar 8inch poly cones) that seem to model OK if given a bigg enough box; try 10,000 litres, thought I'd try them but while they fit the cutout they do not fit the rebate. I,m thinking I can fit them from the back of the panel; please comment on what happens if I round out the front of the hole with a router, does the air coupling become any more efficient?? or is a half inch round-over too small to have any effect?? One thing I keep learning is that is it is relatively easier to work with good drivers. Peter I bought a quad of those Jaycar 12inch paper drivers and working on a cheap baffle as a gift for friends of ours, do you know anything about the Magnavox 8WR?/ I'm bidding on a pair in ebay at the moment thinking they may work well as the mid-top
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QUOTE" The more I know, the more I know, I know (insert maniacal laugh >here<) NOTHING" |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Norlane; Geelong: Victoria: Australia
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I won the auction, I got the drivers for $AUD1.00, it's going to cost $12 in petrol to pick them up though!!
__________________
QUOTE" The more I know, the more I know, I know (insert maniacal laugh >here<) NOTHING" |
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