PDX Zaph SR-71 Build Thread - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Multi-Way

Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 29th March 2008, 03:10 AM   #1
StewLG is offline StewLG  United States
diyAudio Member
 
StewLG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Default PDX Zaph SR-71 Build Thread

I've been interested in building speakers for a while now, and although I'm most interested in more ambitious projects (namely an IB subwoofer), I figured since I'm an idiot it would be best to start with something small.

I ordered the Zaph SR-71 kit from Madisound, without the enclosures. (Remember, I want to learn how to work with MDF.)
I started work on it today.

Click the image to open in full size.

Based on some post somewhere - it would take me some surfing to find it again, sorry - I ordered these MDF screws from McFeeley's:

Click the image to open in full size.

I bought this kit:

http://tinyurl.com/23xdpk

Although I bought these because they were supposedly great at preventing cracking, it hasn't worked out that way:

Click the image to open in full size.

Did I countersink too far? Here's where my screws are ending up (after a lot of complaint from the clutch on my drill):

Click the image to open in full size.

Is this merely very poor workmanship on my part, or is this cabinet sonic junk now?

I'm going with just glue on the other cabinet for now, with no fasteners, just clamping it until it sets. I'm likely to re-do the cracked cabinet with screws you see above. At the very least it will be the cabinet I make all my mistakes on, before moving on to the other.

All suggestions and feedback welcome.
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th March 2008, 03:14 AM   #2
diyAudio Member
 
R-Carpenter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Brooklyn Navy Yard
Are u using ultra light mdf or regular mdf?
__________________
http://www.diy-ny.com/
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th March 2008, 03:42 AM   #3
Account disabled at member's request
 
MJL21193's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Hi,
Your screws are too close to the edge. Move them in 3"-4" and use less (if any, I don't use screws on MDF just glue). Spend some money on clamps and trust the glue to hold the joint together.
Attached Images
File Type: gif aa.gif (78.4 KB, 1551 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th March 2008, 05:12 AM   #4
StewLG is offline StewLG  United States
diyAudio Member
 
StewLG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Quote:
Originally posted by R-Carpenter
Are u using ultra light mdf or regular mdf?
As far as I know it is "regular" MDF. I wasn't offered a choice or asked for clarification when I asked for MDF at the lumberyard (Parr in Portland).
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th March 2008, 05:12 AM   #5
StewLG is offline StewLG  United States
diyAudio Member
 
StewLG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Quote:
Originally posted by MJL21193
Hi,
Your screws are too close to the edge. Move them in 3"-4" and use less (if any, I don't use screws on MDF just glue). Spend some money on clamps and trust the glue to hold the joint together.
I'm going just with glue on the second cabinet.
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th March 2008, 05:21 AM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
ShinOBIWAN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: UK
Ah well you live and learn, don't feel bad about it though. MDF really is quite poor with screws put into the thickness of the material so I'd say forget them altogether. Just using PVA wood glue with clamps makes for a very strong joint, you'll rip the MDF apart before the glue gives way.

If you have to use screws then the smaller the better, imperial type 6 or 7 work well enough as long as you don't over tighten and pilot each hole correctly. I only use screws on very large cabinets though, say a sub enclosure and as few as possible at that.

Like you say, I think it would be wise to rebuild the cabinet with the split.
__________________
The more you know who you are and what you want, the less things will ever be the same.
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th March 2008, 07:51 PM   #7
sploo is offline sploo  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
The advice already on this thread is spot on... but here's some more...

If you have access to a router, then it's a good idea to route rebates (slots and groves) around the edges of the faces of panels, so it glues together better (no need for screws). See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rabbet

If you can't do this, and feel the joint may be a bit weak, you can glue a corner together, let it dry, then drill 1/4" holes instead of the pilot holes for screws. You can then drop some 1/4" dowels in, with some glue, and trim flush.

If you really want to use screws, then I've found that clamping two pieces of scrap wood, one on each side of the wall that's going to receive the screw, will stop it splitting as you drive the screw in.
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th March 2008, 08:34 PM   #8
owdi is offline owdi  United States
diyAudio Member
 
owdi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Bellevue, WA
My process:

1. Spread glue
2. Clamp the pieces together
3. Predrill holes for screws
4. Screw in drywall screws - only until they are in, no need to tighten
5. Remove clamps, go back to step 1 for additional panels
6. Once the glue is cured, remove screws and fill the holes

This works for me. I learned early on that predrilling before gluing doesn't guarantee things line up. The glue is so much stronger than the screws that you don't need them once everything cures.

One day I hope to invest several hundred dollars in a full set of good clamps, and avoid using screws altogether.

Dan
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th March 2008, 10:06 PM   #9
sploo is offline sploo  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Yea, clamps - especially the large ones - can be a bit pricey.

Whenever I buy some tools or consumables from my 'local' DIY store (actually an online place) I tend to add a clamp to the order. I've spent loads on clamps over the years, but spreading it lessens the pain!

Alternatively, you can buy some 1/4" by 1" metal bar, and make your own. I've got a load of the stuff, ready to make some (like this: http://www.woodshoptips.com/tips/050304/index.htm), but it's just another one of those jobs that never gets done .
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th March 2008, 10:38 PM   #10
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
My technique (its slow but lines things up).

Glue only 2 panels at a time.
Line up via putting the join on a flat surface and pre-drill for the screws
Put greased lunch paper between your flat surface and the joint to be glued (stops your flat surface from becoming all covered with glue)
Glue along the joint, press together and screw. Just screw in enough so the joint "binds" (you'll see some glue being pressed out of the joint)
When glue sets, backout the screws. Saves money on screws & you don't have to accurately countersink. The glue is strong enough on a but joint
Repeat the above for the next join.

A good technique I've read somewhere is:
- a little table salt on the join with the MDF helps stop it sliding all over the place
- (plunge router with flush trimming bit required). Panel cut the top, bottom, back with the one fence setting on your circular saw / table saw. These panels are then guaranteed to line up (all the same width). Then cut the side panels slightly oversized. Flush trim these against the top/bottom. Then same again for your baffle

I agree using long bar or other clamps would be ideal but decent ones do cost. If you are going to make this a lifetime hobby, well worth it, but for your first few builds, using screws is fine.

I'd say the splitting is due to two things:
- Your predrilled holes aren't big enough for your screws. I always use a drill bit the same size as the "core" screw diameter (minus thread) - so it is only the thread that bites into the MDF
- You are drilling too close to the end of the MDF (as above posted noted) - so at least 2" out from the end is required. Screws don't need to be right at the end... remember the glue does the job.

Cheers,
David.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Help with first Build (Seas CNO MkII or Zaph ZRT) whimsical Multi-Way 2 6th July 2009 05:40 PM
Front Ported Zaph zbm4 Project Thread BionicSniper Multi-Way 6 26th August 2008 03:58 PM
Anyone in the Seattle area build the Zaph Audio L18/27TBFCG project? owdi Everything Else 6 3rd November 2007 04:00 AM
zaph l18/27tbfcg build quesion vcmc Multi-Way 17 8th June 2007 06:55 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 05:40 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2