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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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I know there are several conventional methods to doing this, namely Staining, Varnishing, Painting, and Veneer. What I'm looking for is something that'll preserve the natural grain of the wood, so I guess staining and varnishing are the only options. However, I want a perfectly smooth finish, and I know I can't do this readily with Varathane, as I can only apply it with a paint brush, not via spraying. Are there any other alternatives? I prefer not to change the colour of the wood. What about oil?
Thanks, Brendan |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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Staining refers to the application of the translucent (alcohol stain or water based aniline) or semi-translucent dye on the wood surface (or veneer surface) to correct or change color.
Veneering is the application of the thinly cut wood (veneer) on the sub straight such as MDF or Plywood. It requires technical knowledge, experience and tools. Pre-veneered panels could be purchased from local supplier for the fraction of the cost of doing it yourself. Finishing is what preserves a natural beauty of the wood. Varnishing, Lacquering or Oiling. Oil finishes are easiest to apply and will give you nice smooth finish. They don’t build up fast and yellow with age. Scratch resistance is limited. Chemical resistance is fair. Other finishes such as Varnish, Brushing lacquer or clear water-based lacquers require a good degree of skill and experience. |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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Based on the question, I didn’t realize the degree of the understanding, Sorry about it.
I’ve been doing finishing and woodworking for quite a few years and I am not an expert on brushing finishes at all. I’ve never seen a great smooth of the brush finish. Usually they are rubbed out. Rubbing out a finish can vary from simple steel wooling to wet sanding finish from 600 grit to 2000 grit sandpaper. It all depends on the desired sheen (gloss, satin or flat finish) Varnishes also vary in hardness. I have a fellow on the same floor, who builds boats and an expert on varnishing. I’ll ask him tomorrow. I think, thinner coats with perhaps nylon brush would be nicer. Are you looking for a high gloss or matt finish? |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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Preferably a high gloss. And you don't have to be sorry, sometimes I really suck at explaining stuff...LOL
Brendan |
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#6 |
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Account disabled at member's request
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Here's a step by step tutorial on French polish: http://www.milburnguitars.com/fpbannerframes.html
Time consuming and takes some practice, but the results are worth it, especially on a project that doesn't get rough treatment (speaker cabinet would be ideal). |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
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Anybody else that has any suggestions I'd like to hear them too. I'm not very experienced at finishes. Sorry if I'm threadjacking CS. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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Naw, it's aight. I want some questions answered as well. Are you also using Baltic Birch?
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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It takes about 2 month with an expert guidance to learn French polishing correctly. I remember, I was about 20 years old and worked for Chinese food 8 hours a day just to get to learn from an expert. LOL, this was good old days.
Anyways, these guys are doing a Russian-French school of French Polishing. There’s also an English (British) school. The difference is that the grain is filled with colored plaster of Paris and final coat rubbed out with wax. It's faster. If you got time, by all means, it’s a beautiful finish. Not at all water or alcohol resistant. Oh, and you could use baby oil. John, you and shellac?- Debby?! Pastels? I will ask, Brett. |
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#10 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
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