Bud,
Will follow suit, at back of whizzer first then to the front. Put the glue on now and test it tomorrow.
Albert
methods please
How did you match "to within less than 1/10th dB -- that was my biggest criteria" ?? can you provide details?? at what distance, equipment used, analysis of error, etc.... the sort of honest reporting that might actually support such exacting suggestions of precision.
John L.
How did you match "to within less than 1/10th dB -- that was my biggest criteria" ?? can you provide details?? at what distance, equipment used, analysis of error, etc.... the sort of honest reporting that might actually support such exacting suggestions of precision.
John L.
Then it is not a match. Few drivers match to that level below 10K as well in my experience. I have never had a pair of drivers match to that precision. Ever. And that is, of course, on a single axis, the on-axis. I would never consider trying to match for polar response, either.
Repeated measurements of a single driver usually have that amount of variation, whether MLS or swept sine. Broadband, that is. Pick a single frequency or narrow range and you might get that sort of measurement-to-measurement precision. But for "full-range"?
Dave
Given that T/S parameters are low frequency, low signal level lumped-sum parameters and that variation of one value is often counter-balanced by variation in another parameter, this would seem to be of little value in testing for (or auditioning) any driver changes in the far field (the listening area), especially given that the area of change is not in the T/S area.
Dave
I could make two drivers with the same sensitivity but sound like they differ by 3~6db. With EnABL, you would probably hear a 2db difference where the sensitivity difference is much less than that.
Will follow suit, at back of whizzer first then to the front. Put the glue on now and test it tomorrow.
Bud,
Get up too early this morning and have a listening to the same tracks about an hour. I can't hear any different, the glare/shout is still there.
I now put glue on front of whizzer, will try it tonight.
Albert
Bud,
Get up too early this morning and have a listening to the same tracks about an hour. I can't hear any different, the glare/shout is still there.
I now put glue on front of whizzer, will try it tonight.
Albert
It's really the most someone can expect... They were as identical as I could ask for really. If it's not a reliable comparison, then that's fine. My review does stress that the difference was at the very limit of my hearing abilities. Alternatively someone could enable the same speaker, but the time between would make the comparison unusable, and it would be irreversable for (imo) the most important part of the comparison. When I went back to stock is when I really went, oh, these sound like that too.
I possibly should have included my equipment setup, as some people find that to be important. I used CD and blu rays. No MP3s or junk like that. At the time, I was using a Sony 350 blu ray player to give a digital signal to a Sherwood Newcastle R-865 receiver. This receiver has an excellent DAC in it. I ran the receiver in pure audio mode, so all unecessary circuits were off, other than volume I believe. I can't remember if I used the onboard 110 watt amps, or went out from there and used my older pioneer amplifier. Both are quite good. I have no info about the pioneer though. There is nothing on the internet about it. Really.
All this makes me wonder: would it be easier to hear these changes on a more "tuned" 2-channel system? I don't intend offence but multi-channel amps and multi-purpose players only tend to sound "quite good" at best (unless properly modified). With subtle changes downstream I would think it best to have a stripped back set of electronics with superb source and lots of attention paid to the room. It's good that a multi-channel type front end can produce results you can distinguish from EnABL. I'm impressed, it makes me think it must be doing something.
No offence taken. Please take a look around the web about that receiver. It's not your run of the mill pionner HT ringer. I bought it specifically for 2ch while being able to do movies on the side, without the need for two setups.
As for the source, it is the source. If you consider the Sony a weak link because it's a BDP, fine, that's for another thread, but it's all digital until it sees the Newcastle.
Also, if it requires such a high end front end, then it's the same as admitting that enable doesn't do what it claims... simple as that. Such outlandish claims could be heard on an ipod dock.
And what do you suppose that is? There are other variables to consider don't forget. The enable drivers were treated (Dave can elaborate). Driver to driver variation. Wasn't a perfect blind test. Etc.
I think it's possible... er sorry, I do think it's true that driver modifications can clean up nasties in the treble. Do I think it's because of a special arrangement of small dots. No. Likely the dots could be arranged however the applier feels looks best, as long as they're applied within the problematic area of the driver (if that is how it works). Or why dots, likely stiffening is all that is required. But that is moving into a realm I do not know anything about, so I'll bow out here.
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Tuxedo, thanks for the clarification. Moot point to a certain extent as you're talking digital ouptut only but I have heard Blu Ray players and been pleasantly surprised, before and after mods.
If I had a Ferrari I'd want the best for it too. I would also have money to burn so it wouldn't matter. Surely if you want cheap performance you buy Japanese...
If I had a Ferrari I'd want the best for it too. I would also have money to burn so it wouldn't matter. Surely if you want cheap performance you buy Japanese...
Albert,
Now we come to the delicate part. Take your tap tester wand and very very lightly tap from your mid cone ring out onto the surround. Does the sound character get suddenly sharper at any location. Then do the same thing to the whizzer. Does the sound get noticeably sharper out near or at the end of the cone, where it is flattened into a hat brim?
If the initial wall of the surround makes a distinctly sharper sound when tapped that the adjacent cone or the surround material and cone together then you will need to paint the backside of the surround on that first face (I am assuming these are accordion pleat surrounds with a sticky coating on the front side). Probably you will end up with three coats here, assuming there is a problem as described.
At the top edges of the whizzer you have a choice. You can paint both sides down to the first ring set. Perhaps many coats. Or you can deform the flat brim into a curved brim and use fewer coats of glue. If the whizzer also has a sharper response to taping down near it's joint with the cone on the front face you can apply alternate coats of 30% gloss and glue until it subsides. Apply them directly to the problem on the front face and just to the area with the sharper response.
The thing is, you want to go through this set of steps very slowly and listen to every change
Bud
Now we come to the delicate part. Take your tap tester wand and very very lightly tap from your mid cone ring out onto the surround. Does the sound character get suddenly sharper at any location. Then do the same thing to the whizzer. Does the sound get noticeably sharper out near or at the end of the cone, where it is flattened into a hat brim?
If the initial wall of the surround makes a distinctly sharper sound when tapped that the adjacent cone or the surround material and cone together then you will need to paint the backside of the surround on that first face (I am assuming these are accordion pleat surrounds with a sticky coating on the front side). Probably you will end up with three coats here, assuming there is a problem as described.
At the top edges of the whizzer you have a choice. You can paint both sides down to the first ring set. Perhaps many coats. Or you can deform the flat brim into a curved brim and use fewer coats of glue. If the whizzer also has a sharper response to taping down near it's joint with the cone on the front face you can apply alternate coats of 30% gloss and glue until it subsides. Apply them directly to the problem on the front face and just to the area with the sharper response.
The thing is, you want to go through this set of steps very slowly and listen to every change
Bud
Bud,
Thanks
I thought I'll need more time to digest every word you said before I go on.
Albert