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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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What are some common ways to do this? And does anyone have a picture of a recessed hex socket cap screw they can show me?
Thanks, Brendan |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Michigan
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This is how I mounted the baffle for my subs.
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Rodd Yamashita |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: midwest
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One online source for threaded inserts is here -
(with pictures) http://www.mcfeelys.com/threaded-inserts |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Flat head: http://www.instockfasteners.com/PROD...cketscrews.asp
Drill size/counterbore: http://www.csgnetwork.com/screwsochdcaptable.html GM
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Michigan
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One of the problems I've seen about using socket head cap screws on wood is the it requires a bit of care when making the counter bore and you will need the right bit and a decent drill press to get a good counter bore. Than you will also need to make the counter bore large enough to accept a decent sized washer to spread the load that can be applied by a machine screw (socket head cap screw). If your not careful you can easily compress the wood making the bolt seat troublesome and prone to loosening in time. In my sub baffles above, I used large diameter fender washers and locktite on the threads in an attempt to over torquing the bolt and compressing the wood.
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Rodd Yamashita |
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| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
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