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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Ontario
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I am trying to match the Seas L18RNXP / 1224 to the North Creek D25S-06 tweeter. Any comments or especially help would be most appreciated. I have posted what I have done so far here: http://s197.photobucket.com/albums/aa7/linggowa/
Thanks
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cascais
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Do you want to change the L-pad on the tweeter? What are your impressions.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
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Getting tweeter attenuation right & BSC are probably the place to start tweaking.
How have you dealt with BSC? are your cabinets vented or are you using subs?
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‘today… there lives alongside the twentieth century the tenth or thirteenth. A hundred million people use electricity and still believe in the magic power of signs and exorcisms” Trotsky |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Ontario
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I made a few changes and they are sounding much better.
http://s197.photobucket.com/albums/aa7/linggowa/
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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You might try shaving the bump off at 250Hz. Try increasing the value of L2, then adjusting C2 to bring the upper mid response back into line. If Req and Ce are correct then don't change them. If you can't match well enough to the tweeter, you may have to tweak it there as well.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Ontario
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I am using the PE .5 cu. cabs. http://s197.photobucket.com/albums/a...rrent=CABS.jpg
They are sealed for the moment and sound quite good that way but I will be using a port. It's not the woofer where I am having the trouble, it's lining up the tweeter. I think it is crossed where I want to be but I am experiencing some sibalence. From first impressions, this has the potential to be a very dynamic sounding speaker. I wish I knew how to use better software but I am lumbering along in X-Over Pro. I'm not sure if I should get rid of the EQ on the woofer and just go with a notch. You can't see the effect of notch filters on the design in X-Over Pro, so I'm sort of working in the dark. John Krutke has both of these units on his website. I have used the North tweeter before and still maintain that $ for $ it is the best buy out there.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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The impedance EQ won't hurt at this stage.
Did you take your phase measurements yourself? |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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After you mentioned the sibiance, I thought there may be some integration issue between the drivers and it is much easier to get this right with the right measurements. Pehaps you could change the polarity of one of the drivers and see whether it sounds "right versus wrong" or just different and still not right.
If you use one half (just the woofer's part) of a well designed crossover (assuming your box resembles Zaph's), then leave the woofer there and tweak the tweeter till it sounds right. I would start by choosing an L and C that give a rolloff at the same frequency and slope as the woofer is supposed to be at, then tweak the L-pad down, being careful to keep it at the right total impedance, till the tweeter just disappears from being the focus of attention, then tweak the L and C a little more. |
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