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#31 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Oslo
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Nice project! And somewhat challenging as well, given your budget constraints. Some comments:
1) Given that you will use the DCX2496 as an active x-over I would not bother with impedance-flattening. As long as you take the time to measure the response of your implementation any deviations due to changes in impedance can easily be corrected with the EQ of the DCX. This will also keep passive components out of the path of these drivers, bettering amp control over them. And, at least if fed by a 24/96 source (using the SRC2496 as a frontend will achieve this) the DCX is highly transparent even at quite high levels of EQ'ing. 2) Although the M130 and PT2 combination should work well, you should try to avoid cutting the length of the lines from your suggestion of (at least) 12 + 8 per channel. To achieve line source behavior at lower frequencies (which you will want) your woofer-line should cover about 70% of the floor-ceiling distance if possible. Also, experience seems to indicate that using tweeter-lines of about the same length as the woofer-line leads to a more 'right' sounding array (probably due to a better balance in frequency response between direct and in-direct radiation). 3) The center channel is tricky, and you may be better off leaving that for later. This is because: a) Going with PT2 mounted horizontally you will want a line that is at least as wide as the width of seating for viewers = a very large center, b) Mounting it vertically you can only use 1 tweeter (which, in the case of the PT2 will have to be crossed quite high to keep up in terms of demanded SPL), more than that will get you in serious trouble in terms of cancellations at certain frequencies, and c) You may not need one as the sweet-spot of the arrays will be a lot larger than what you are used to. This is particularly true if you angle them quite aggressively (crossing in front of listening position could work out well) as this will better balance the relative SPL of the two speakers when you move to the side. Any way - good luck with the project! Although there are some challenges to overcome I think the end-result can turn out great! -A |
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#32 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Believe me, with good line arrays these conditions are met always, i.e. "sweet spot" is everywhere in the listening room.
__________________
If I disappear suddenly, that means I finally created a time machine and pushed wrong button that brought me to Stalin's Russia. In any experiment any result is the result. Even if it is negative. |
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#33 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
__________________
If I disappear suddenly, that means I finally created a time machine and pushed wrong button that brought me to Stalin's Russia. In any experiment any result is the result. Even if it is negative. |
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#34 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: St Pete, Florida
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Quote:
Right back at you...
__________________
Charles |
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#35 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
__________________
If I disappear suddenly, that means I finally created a time machine and pushed wrong button that brought me to Stalin's Russia. In any experiment any result is the result. Even if it is negative. |
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#36 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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#37 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Chops,
I've kept an eye on your thread from the start but didn't want to try to sway you from the Dayton 6.5s since you seemed to like them so much. Now that you are looking to other options and smaller woofers, I think you should look at the drivers here. Particularly, look at the 5.25" peerless woofers. ![]() Similar specs to the M-130, but not quite as much x-max. Has the advantage of shorting rings and probably lower distortion over the M-130. It was crossed over to at 2.5kHz in the NHT speakers it was used in, so it should be easy enough to cross over. The best advantage it has is price, 10 bucks apiece for what would have been a $40 woofer. If I were building a line array (wish I could right now, I'd love to try one) those are the woofers I would use. Good luck with the project! Regards, David |
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#38 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: St Pete, Florida
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Hey David, thanks for the info. However, I think I have been talked into upgrading even higher and going with the M-130X drivers!
There's no doubt I'm going to be putting some major cash into this project, and at this point I am willing to do so as long as the money is there to allow me. If the few things I have up for sale actually sell, then I should be fine with funds for the project. If things go south as far as the sale items are concerned, I'll definately look into the drivers you mentioned. In fact, I saved the link to that page you linked to! Again, thanks!
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Charles |
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#39 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: WI.- near the Dells
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Kinda disappointed you didn't stay with Dayton idea, I was even going to suggest a cheaper tweeter, I liked the whole concept.
AJ - Can you tell us about your bass unit? Looks interesting. Bluto |
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