Zaph Bargain Mini Q's

cyberspyder · 12th February 2008, 05:37 PM

Yes, I'm new here...people from Head-Fi directed me here. For my final project in woodshop, I would like to make a set of these speakers to accompany the JBL Power 20 amp I found in my basement. HOWEVER, being my first speaker build, I have some questions.

1. Where is the port exactly? On the diagram, it gives no reference points.
2. Where can I get a 1" port (with the flare at the end)?
3. What type of dampening should I go for on a budget? Zaph says carpet padding would work. I have seen chopped foam padding and just medium density foam at Home Depot. Which one is better? Or should I go for a hybrid and laminate 2 (or 3) pieces together?
4. To the people who have built Bargian Mini's, can you post a pic of your crossover? Aside from electronics in Grade 9, I have not taken any other.
5. I've decided to tweak the front a bit, so the it sits in the frame provided by the four sides. What gasket materials should I be looking at to seal the baffle? I've seen some GB Duct Seal at HD, but would silicone work better?

Thanks, Brendan

cyberspyder · 12th February 2008, 08:01 PM

Can't edit yet

BTW, what type of wood inserts should I be looking at for the baffle screws? I was thinking of using some big Torx/Socket cap flathead screws along with T-nuts or threaded wood inserts.

Brendan

cyberspyder · 13th February 2008, 03:38 PM

Anyone wanna help? Yes I did search...

Bob2 · 13th February 2008, 06:08 PM

Hi Brendan

I'll try to answer a few questions.

1. I don't think the location of the port is too critical, centered on the back directly behind the tweeter should be okay.

2. The port is from Parts Express, part # 260-470.

5. Use weatherstripping from Home Depot, closed cell foam.

T-nuts are probably the easiest to use, again from Home Depot.

Hope that helps.

Bob

cyberspyder · 13th February 2008, 07:45 PM

Thanks, anyone else wanna answer?

cyberspyder · 14th February 2008, 02:45 PM

Can I use a 1 1/2" port instead of the 1"? I can't find a 1" PVC tube locally (at homedepot or Rona).

squib · 14th February 2008, 03:34 PM

As to the port: you might be able to substitute a 1.5" diameter port, but the length will have to increase to maintain the same tuning. I would recommend holding off on the larger PVC and getting the 1" material Zaph included in the original design.

If you really want to try the larger diameter port, you can download link]WinSID[/URL].
This will allow you to model the longer port length to achieve the same tuning. You will need to input the driver T/S parameters, but it's not that difficult to sort.

Your chosen starting point of using a proven design is a good one...just be careful when making changes, as a seemingly small alteration may have profound effects on the final sound of your project.

Good luck,
Squib

squib · 14th February 2008, 03:39 PM

Carpet padding works relatively well. You can also fine various densities of open cell foam in the crafts sections of big box stores. For example: Polyurethane foam blocks sold for chair pads (1-2" thickness). It's generally pretty inexpensive and easy to work with, just keep it away from open flames

.

sreten · 14th February 2008, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by cyberspyder
Can't edit yet BTW, what type of wood inserts should I be looking at for the baffle screws? I was thinking of using some big Torx/Socket cap flathead screws along with T-nuts or threaded wood inserts.

Hi,

I suggest you reread the article very carefully. With an MDF baffle
all you need is drilled pilot holes for self tappers or something similar.

Quote:

Originally posted by cyberspyder
Can I use a 1 1/2" port instead of the 1"? I can't find a 1" PVC tube locally (at homedepot or Rona).

Port is 1" internal diameter. 1.5" internal will be too long to fit inside.

/sreten.

cyberspyder · 14th February 2008, 05:31 PM

Oh, BTW I can't use MDF at school because of the dust. We DO have a dust collector, but I have to cut it afterschool, thus limiting the amount of time I get. My alternative is 3/4" Baltic birch/Russian plywood. Upon further searching, I found a 1" port tube at Parts Express, so that's taken care of. Based on my teacher's opinion, the inserts aren't needed, since I won't be taking out the screws or screwing it in often (once or twice max.). Last question, other than weather stripping, can I use silicone (for the baffle gasket)?

12th February 2008, 05:37 PM	#1
cyberspyder diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2008	Zaph Bargain Mini Q's Yes, I'm new here...people from Head-Fi directed me here. For my final project in woodshop, I would like to make a set of these speakers to accompany the JBL Power 20 amp I found in my basement. HOWEVER, being my first speaker build, I have some questions. 1. Where is the port exactly? On the diagram, it gives no reference points. 2. Where can I get a 1" port (with the flare at the end)? 3. What type of dampening should I go for on a budget? Zaph says carpet padding would work. I have seen chopped foam padding and just medium density foam at Home Depot. Which one is better? Or should I go for a hybrid and laminate 2 (or 3) pieces together? 4. To the people who have built Bargian Mini's, can you post a pic of your crossover? Aside from electronics in Grade 9, I have not taken any other. 5. I've decided to tweak the front a bit, so the it sits in the frame provided by the four sides. What gasket materials should I be looking at to seal the baffle? I've seen some GB Duct Seal at HD, but would silicone work better? Thanks, Brendan

14th February 2008, 03:39 PM	#8
squib diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2007	damping material Carpet padding works relatively well. You can also fine various densities of open cell foam in the crafts sections of big box stores. For example: Polyurethane foam blocks sold for chair pads (1-2" thickness). It's generally pretty inexpensive and easy to work with, just keep it away from open flames .

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12th February 2008, 08:01 PM	#2
cyberspyder diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2008	Can't edit yet BTW, what type of wood inserts should I be looking at for the baffle screws? I was thinking of using some big Torx/Socket cap flathead screws along with T-nuts or threaded wood inserts. Brendan

13th February 2008, 03:38 PM	#3
cyberspyder diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2008	Anyone wanna help? Yes I did search...

13th February 2008, 06:08 PM	#4
Bob2 diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Winnipeg, Canada	Hi Brendan I'll try to answer a few questions. 1. I don't think the location of the port is too critical, centered on the back directly behind the tweeter should be okay. 2. The port is from Parts Express, part # 260-470. 5. Use weatherstripping from Home Depot, closed cell foam. T-nuts are probably the easiest to use, again from Home Depot. Hope that helps. Bob

13th February 2008, 07:45 PM	#5
cyberspyder diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2008	Thanks, anyone else wanna answer?

14th February 2008, 02:45 PM	#6
cyberspyder diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2008	Can I use a 1 1/2" port instead of the 1"? I can't find a 1" PVC tube locally (at homedepot or Rona).

14th February 2008, 03:34 PM	#7
squib diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2007	As to the port: you might be able to substitute a 1.5" diameter port, but the length will have to increase to maintain the same tuning. I would recommend holding off on the larger PVC and getting the 1" material Zaph included in the original design. If you really want to try the larger diameter port, you can download link]WinSID[/URL]. This will allow you to model the longer port length to achieve the same tuning. You will need to input the driver T/S parameters, but it's not that difficult to sort. Your chosen starting point of using a proven design is a good one...just be careful when making changes, as a seemingly small alteration may have profound effects on the final sound of your project. Good luck, Squib

14th February 2008, 05:31 PM	#10
cyberspyder diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2008	Oh, BTW I can't use MDF at school because of the dust. We DO have a dust collector, but I have to cut it afterschool, thus limiting the amount of time I get. My alternative is 3/4" Baltic birch/Russian plywood. Upon further searching, I found a 1" port tube at Parts Express, so that's taken care of. Based on my teacher's opinion, the inserts aren't needed, since I won't be taking out the screws or screwing it in often (once or twice max.). Last question, other than weather stripping, can I use silicone (for the baffle gasket)?

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