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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 20th February 2008, 02:10 AM   #91
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ceibal
Thanks for the recommendation on the router, I was about to ask some of you that question.

The MTM I will (at some point) build looks to be at 4ohm impedence unless I choose different speakers. My reciever is a Denon avr 2000 with 85w accross the front and 25w in the rear. My rear speakers (which will be my dipoles in the near future) are 8ohm and so is my center channel. Given this do you recommend building 4ohms speakers or 8? I have noticed many if not all of the designs are 4ohm that people are building.
Mi dispiace. I've been watching the God Father, lived in Italy during the 70's, it's very easy for me to get lost in it again.

I'm old school, 8's are for home 4' are for car's. Not to be said that 4' can't perform at home, I'm just set in my ways for various reasons, amp loads being the better of them. If I had had 8's already, I would stay that line. Watts are cheap.

But that's my opinion, just as I like sealed better than ported.

Listen to what you like and build what you want to and if you don't like them, build again. It's a hobby, it's all for fun. Once you fall into the pit of perfection, it's no longer a hobby. And the Don Quixote rule of speakers will eat you alive.
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Old 22nd February 2008, 05:07 AM   #92
Ceibal is offline Ceibal  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dryseals


No problem, just thought I would offer. I'm bouncing back and forth from the shop to the inside today, a tad cool for these old bones, can't wait for the sun to warm things up.

I would like to make one suggestion, if you plan on cutting your own holes, invest in the Jasper Jig and a router, it will save you time, effort and head aches.

Plunge router works best for this type of work. You don't have to buy a high dollar one, I have more routers than most guys have underwear and the elcheapo craftsman that I keep the jig attached to works just as well as the high dollar Freud and Dewalts I have. I could have bought three or four of the Craftsman for the price of some of the others.

Not all router screw holes line up, each is a tad different. The circular based routers seem to fit better. Many of the truncated bases only allow two screws hole to line up.

Pick up a small piece of 3/4" MDF at one of the box stores and take a few practice runs on it. Write down your setting as you do it and re-measure after your cuts and test fit your speakers. You'll only get one shot at the baffle.

The jig is designed to work with a 1/4" bit, but I use anything from a half on down. Just do the math, 1/2" bit is going to cut a hole 1/4" wider than the mark and saves time rather than making multiple passes with a smaller bit.

Suns out, good luck.

Quote:
Originally posted by Dryseals


Mi dispiace. I've been watching the God Father, lived in Italy during the 70's, it's very easy for me to get lost in it again.

I'm old school, 8's are for home 4' are for car's. Not to be said that 4' can't perform at home, I'm just set in my ways for various reasons, amp loads being the better of them. If I had had 8's already, I would stay that line. Watts are cheap.

But that's my opinion, just as I like sealed better than ported.

Listen to what you like and build what you want to and if you don't like them, build again. It's a hobby, it's all for fun. Once you fall into the pit of perfection, it's no longer a hobby. And the Don Quixote rule of speakers will eat you alive.


What is your opinion on the router buddy vs the jasper jig?

http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage....ctGroup_ID=876
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Old 28th July 2011, 01:45 AM   #93
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Check out the oval 15 and 30 prototypes. I could almost guarantee they will outperfor most anything else at that price and allow a lot of flexibility due to a low crossover point.

Also check out solen.ca if you want someone to design a crossover for you. Very helpful!
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Old 28th July 2011, 07:01 AM   #94
Jonasz is offline Jonasz  Sweden
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Build Seas Thor (in closed box) with this crossover, should be all your looking for.

HTGuide Forum - View Single Post - seas thor crossover redesign help

Whole thread:
HTGuide Forum - seas thor crossover redesign help

Edit: Oh this was an ooold thread...

Last edited by Jonasz; 28th July 2011 at 07:03 AM.
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Old 28th July 2011, 11:32 AM   #95
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I use the Jasper jig. It's very easy to use and also very precise to 1/16 of an inch.
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Old 28th July 2011, 07:03 PM   #96
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I am certain that you have not listened to enough sealed and vented midbass/bass designs to actually know what the audible difference is between them, if any. I don't understand why you are so biased against vented designs; they perform much better than sealed in some (important) ways.

Anyway, for what you currently know, I think you're asking the wrong questions and are definitely putting the cart before the horse.

EDIT: Oh man, perceptionchanges bumped a 3 year old thread. Great.

Last edited by 454Casull; 28th July 2011 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 28th July 2011, 07:10 PM   #97
tinitus is offline tinitus  Europe
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out of 10 good woofers, maybe 9 are best suited fore BR, and just one is ideal fore closed
I think you could say that the technically best woofers are only good fore vented, and designed to be used that way

I still build closed though
besides thta, it seems to me that bass definition is to a large degree determined by crossover
and not only the bass section, but the complete xo as a whole
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Old 28th July 2011, 07:17 PM   #98
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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I have this idea that with the 21st century high SPL pro woofers that are relatively high Fs and low VAS, now is the time for infinite baffle Isobaric (compound mass) to come to its own. SqrtFs and same VAS for same SPL as one at 4 Ohm. Class D and controllers cheap & abundant if for active.
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Old 29th July 2011, 01:09 AM   #99
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Isobaric may also be a good way to shoehorn a pair of 15" drivers with their relatively high Vas into a reasonably sized cab????
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Impedance varies with frequency, use impedance plots of your drivers and make crossover calculations using the actual impedance of the driver at the crossover frequency
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Old 29th July 2011, 02:12 AM   #100
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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You lower Fs by sqrtHz and you use up as much back box as for one unit when employing two. The gain is you end up with a 35Hz free air resonance from say a 50Hz woofer without increasing volume of air displacement. I.e. you go lower and you economize in box volume. The loss is you go 4 Ohm without any 2.83VSPL referenced increase.
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