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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Hi everybody,
What are some ways that can be used to solve baffle step correction acoustically, or basically any way except a line level or speaker level circuit using R, L or C? I understand using a bipole configuration will do it and I think I heard that making a really wide front baffle and keeping the box against the wall will also do it. Is this right? How wide would the baffle have to be for this to work? Is there a maximum distance from the wall it can be? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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A second driver can work wonders. But eq is so easy, why avoid it?
For all your other questions, just scale to wavelength.
__________________
“Listening to records is like ****ing a picture of Brigitte Bardot.” - Sergiu Celibidache |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Enschede, Overijssel
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It depends on what you call "solving". Is that compensating/equalizing or really trying to minimize the baffle step? Also, you might want to solve the diffraction problems.
A wide baffle with smooth edges against the wall might solve that, or better, in-wall speakers. The sound stage though, will probably be a bit "flat" because the rear wall reflection is absent. However, I have heard that the human mind compensates for this when listening to such speakers for a prolonged period, and the image is restored after about 20 minutes of listening. A downside of this kind of design is the strong excitation of almost all room modes. Depending on your room, this can be a good thing or a bad thing. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Just looking for all options available.
Maybe this http://boozhoundlabs.com/fx120-alpha10/ is a worthwile approach to solving/compensating for it. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Enschede, Overijssel
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Dipoles are also a good approach, since they do not have a baffle step. They radiate constantly in a figure of 8 pattern and have less edge diffraction because of the sound pressure nulls towards the sides. However, they should be placed at least 1 m away from the wall. Have you read the website of Siegfried Linkwitz ?
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Thats a whole other can of worms I am playing with.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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"Maybe this http://boozhoundlabs.com/fx120-alpha10/ is a worthwile approach to solving/compensating for it."
Or use two of the same midrange drive. And just like boozehound did to fill in his open back rolloff, cut in the second driver at whatever frequency is necessary to make up the baffle step. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Utah
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Probably the simplest way would be to use a wide enough baffle in a three way design that the baffle step would be low enough to put at the lower crossover frequency. Maybe 300-500 Hz. Then use a woofer that is 1-2 db more efficient than the other drivers. If speakers will be placed fairly close to the wall no baffle step correction is advised. Out in the room 1-2 db is about right. For outdoor speakers you will probably want up to 4-5 db unless they are hanging stadium type speakers. Then you would want a full 6db baffle step.
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Cool guys (or gals).
Thanks for the comments. So basically you can solve it by (including electrical methods): 1. RL circuit at the speaker level. 2. RC circuit at the line level. 3. Infinite baffle or wide baffle against wall. 4. With a 2 way or 3 way design, use a woofer with 1-2dB increased SPL rating crossed over to the mids/highs at the baffle step frequency. 5. With a fullrange design, use a woofer with the same SPL rating or the same fullrange driver crossed over at the baffle step frequency. Look right? |
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#10 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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