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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 3rd March 2008, 02:05 PM   #21
JCoffey is offline JCoffey  United States
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Well, I've almost completed the cabinets. Cutting the side panels at the right angle was a nightmare. and ROTO-Zips are Horrid for making clean straight cuts!!!
I should have them finished tonight or tomorrow evening, and then I will start listening to them and breaking them in. After that, I will start finishing the cabinets in Cherry. I will take some pics tonight of the progress and post them.....
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Old 4th March 2008, 01:27 PM   #22
JCoffey is offline JCoffey  United States
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Here are a couple pics of the work so far. cutting the angled cut for the side is damn near impossible with the tools I have. And let me just say, unless you REALLY know what you are doing, its pretty hard to get good accurate cuts with an inexpensive table saw. I should have just gone with a sawboard from the beginning like I had planned.
Oh, and again STAY AWAY FROM ROTOZIPS! Im taking mine back. They are horrid and you CANNOT make clean cuts. The circle cutting attachment was $25 more, and its a piece of cheap plastic that flexes and wont lock down enough to hold the setting!!!!!!!
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Old 4th March 2008, 01:29 PM   #23
JCoffey is offline JCoffey  United States
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heres what the front will look like
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Old 4th March 2008, 04:04 PM   #24
JCoffey is offline JCoffey  United States
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About the enclosure. The top section on the tower is .34 cf, same volume as the enclosure recommented by Madisound. It will have the 2" PVC port in the rear as well. I figure if they used LEAP to design this thing, it should perform well with what they say, so who am I to question it. The bottom will have the binding posts, and will allow me to fill with sand, since it is a bit narrow, as well as keeping it solid with a Jack Russel puppy tearing through the house like he does. I decided to not go with a sub here for a couple reasons, I can have more flexibility with placement, and I really wanted to go with the Swift style. One thing I didnt like about the Swift was that it was just too wide for my tastes. I love the classy clean slim look of narrower towers with speakers coming towards the edge. I should have the final side cut after work today, and that will allow me to run the wiring. Right now Im stuck trying to figure out how to cut the hole for the vent, so that its clean. I dont have a router right now, so Im kinda lost. Im trying to locate a pre-glued veneer in cherry to finish it all of once Im done, and that should be it!. I hope to have them breaking in starting tonight on the new Yamaha reciever I purchased over the weekend, and maybe get to finish the outside of them this weekend!
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Old 4th March 2008, 04:49 PM   #25
JCoffey is offline JCoffey  United States
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Oh yes, dimensions:
36"h
7"w
10"d at the bottom
4"d at the top
brace\divider 24" down from the top
3\4" MDF used
Port will be around 19" down from the top
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Old 4th March 2008, 07:29 PM   #26
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by JCoffey
About the enclosure. The top section on the tower is .34 cf, same volume as the enclosure recommented by Madisound. It will have the 2" PVC port in the rear as well. I figure if they used LEAP to design this thing, it should perform well with what they say, so who am I to question it.
Hi,

As far as I know LEAP does crossovers not boxes.

There is no question that the green curve in post #3 is better than
the blue curve for full range usage. The blue curve would be better
when combined with an 80Hz AV small speaker rolloff and sub.

Box design is about compromise and 15L is really a little large for a
5" driver but due to its parameters a 10L box is about the smallest
box you can get away with a vented alignement, 15L is better,

/sreten.
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Old 4th March 2008, 07:33 PM   #27
JCoffey is offline JCoffey  United States
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Yes, LEAP only does x-overs, but I meant that if it was designed with that size in mind, it should work well. There will be a sub in the end at some point, but they will mainly be full range.

With this box size, do I need to worry about overworking the 5"?
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Old 4th March 2008, 08:31 PM   #28
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by JCoffey

Yes, LEAP only does x-overs, but I meant that if it was designed with that size in mind, it should
work well. There will be a sub in the end at some point, but they will mainly be full range.

With this box size, do I need to worry about overworking the 5"?
Hi,

As your messing around with baffle width sticking to box volume
doesn't seem to make any sense, however the extended front
baffle will mitigate against the narrower baffle width.

Regarding the 5" you cannot expect miracles but it will have the
same output as a 10" sealed driver with the same throw at the
port frequency, below this frequency power handling rapidly
goes west so its important to not tune too high.

/sreten.
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Old 4th March 2008, 08:47 PM   #29
JCoffey is offline JCoffey  United States
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Ok I see what youre saying then. so since I changed the baffle width, thereby changing what the crossover was designed for, I should just start from sctrach with the x-over and volume?
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Old 4th March 2008, 09:04 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by sreten

As far as I know LEAP does crossovers not boxes.
It does both. LEAP is comprised of Enclosure shop and Crossover Shop.
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