Looking to unload my ProAc 2.5 clones.

R-Carpenter · 23rd January 2008, 12:50 AM

To make a long story short, I am ProAc-ed out. Build this speakers a few month ago and want to start some other projects.
Veneer: Birds Eye Maple with Burl Walnut bases.
X-over: Jac’s schematics. 14 gage Solen perfect lay air core inductors on the woofer, 14 gage Goertz copper foil on the tweeter.
Solen capacitors with 0.01 bypasses on the tweeter section.
Resistors are 12w mills.
Crossovers are housed in the bases so they could be inspected.
Cabinets are building with variable density laminations.

Anybody knows anybody?
Asking $1600

Hi-res pictures will be available in a couple of days but I do have most of the steps photographed, including internal bracing and so on.

Flared ports also.

sdclc126 · 23rd January 2008, 04:17 AM

Have you tried posting in the Marketplace section?

R-Carpenter · 23rd January 2008, 12:00 PM

I just did now, based on your suggestion. I am not in a great hurry to this, I’d rather wait for the right person who could enjoy this things. Anyhow, we all have friends and not all our friends have ability to build or design speakers (or desire). This speakers are already build and sound fantastic so my idea is “hey Joe, I know a guy, who knows a guy, who has proacs you could listen to” Anyways see what happens. I can always bring this home and use them as right and left in HT then we all switch to 9.1.

R-Carpenter · 25th January 2008, 01:50 AM

hier res

Thawach · 26th January 2008, 09:10 AM

Hi carpenter

I would like to see the pictures of your speaker.
Are you use veneer with Mdf? I want to know
about glue that you use with mdf.

regards

Thawach

R-Carpenter · 26th January 2008, 03:26 PM

MDF comes in different densities. There are varieties of MDF that are called Fire-retardant, Ranger and also exterior grade. Sandwiching different density materials helps eliminate box resonance or I should probably say wall resonances. It's another step that brings us to a less boxy sound from the speaker.
Veneer is pressed on MDF panels before the speaker is assembled and actually before the panels are cut to size. Vacuum pressing is my game.
Gluing is done with Unibond 800 or other formaldehyde urea resign.

I only use catalyzed adhesives, especially with difficult veneers and Birds Eye Maple likes to move after gluing, plus it doesn't like alifatic resign (yellow) glues and quite often chemically reacts with it (turns pink in a few month).

Thawach · 26th January 2008, 05:47 PM

Hi

It's difficult for me and I don't have the Vacuum.
i think that i still use real wood. It will be easy.

Thanks

R-Carpenter · 27th January 2008, 02:06 AM

It may be easier but you are much more limited in terms of graining and the applications. I have seen people build speakers out of solid wood but having resonance liable panels doesn’t seat well with me. It’s like anything else, more tools and skills will give you more options and abilities.

R-Carpenter · 27th January 2008, 02:08 AM

here's the back

Thawach · 27th January 2008, 08:45 AM

Hi

Everything that you have said.The next time i will try to do.

Thanks

/Thawach

23rd January 2008, 12:50 AM	#1
R-Carpenter diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Brooklyn Navy Yard	Looking to unload my ProAc 2.5 clones. To make a long story short, I am ProAc-ed out. Build this speakers a few month ago and want to start some other projects. Veneer: Birds Eye Maple with Burl Walnut bases. X-over: Jac’s schematics. 14 gage Solen perfect lay air core inductors on the woofer, 14 gage Goertz copper foil on the tweeter. Solen capacitors with 0.01 bypasses on the tweeter section. Resistors are 12w mills. Crossovers are housed in the bases so they could be inspected. Cabinets are building with variable density laminations. Anybody knows anybody? Asking $1600 Hi-res pictures will be available in a couple of days but I do have most of the steps photographed, including internal bracing and so on. Flared ports also.

23rd January 2008, 04:17 AM	#2
sdclc126 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: San Diego, CA	Have you tried posting in the Marketplace section? __________________ Soft Dome

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26th January 2008, 09:10 AM	#5
Thawach diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2007	Hi carpenter I would like to see the pictures of your speaker. Are you use veneer with Mdf? I want to know about glue that you use with mdf. regards Thawach

26th January 2008, 03:26 PM	#6
R-Carpenter diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Brooklyn Navy Yard	MDF comes in different densities. There are varieties of MDF that are called Fire-retardant, Ranger and also exterior grade. Sandwiching different density materials helps eliminate box resonance or I should probably say wall resonances. It's another step that brings us to a less boxy sound from the speaker. Veneer is pressed on MDF panels before the speaker is assembled and actually before the panels are cut to size. Vacuum pressing is my game. Gluing is done with Unibond 800 or other formaldehyde urea resign. I only use catalyzed adhesives, especially with difficult veneers and Birds Eye Maple likes to move after gluing, plus it doesn't like alifatic resign (yellow) glues and quite often chemically reacts with it (turns pink in a few month).

26th January 2008, 05:47 PM	#7
Thawach diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2007	Hi It's difficult for me and I don't have the Vacuum. i think that i still use real wood. It will be easy. Thanks

27th January 2008, 02:06 AM	#8
R-Carpenter diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Brooklyn Navy Yard	It may be easier but you are much more limited in terms of graining and the applications. I have seen people build speakers out of solid wood but having resonance liable panels doesn’t seat well with me. It’s like anything else, more tools and skills will give you more options and abilities.

27th January 2008, 08:45 AM	#10
Thawach diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2007	Hi Everything that you have said.The next time i will try to do. Thanks /Thawach

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