Cabinet Bracing (Tie Sides to Frt & Rear?)

[Ric Seyler]

I'm bracing a pair of 3 way floor standing cabinets with
1.5"dia dowels. Frt to Back (above woofer, below mid),
Left to Right... and another set below the woofer.

Should I tie the two dowels together where they intersect?
Or should I let the sides and front/rear "vibrate" independently
from each other?

Thanks guys!

[John L]

That won't hurt.

But why the dowells? You could have done the same thing with just about any piece of lumber? Just curious.

[sdclc126]

Have you considered shelf bracing? They connect all 4 sides together - that would be best. Don't remove the dowels, just add a shelf or two.

[Ric Seyler]

I don't think I can get a shelf through the woofer hole.
But the theory of tieing the frt/back, L/R together I'll
do by attaching the intersections. Thanks, man!

[Ric Seyler]

Originally posted by John L
That won't hurt.

But why the dowells? You could have done the same thing with just about any piece of lumber? Just curious.

A couple reasons which just might be CrAzY.. LOL
I was thinking the large dowels would be more
aerodynamic and cause less turbulance whithin
the cabinet. (Ported cabinets)

And they have a large enough diameter to solidly
brace the cabinet. Easy install, just cut to length,
and Gorilla Glue them into place.

Plus I already had them LOLOL

[Ric Seyler]

Originally posted by sdclc126
Have you considered shelf bracing? They connect all 4 sides together - that would be best. Don't remove the dowels, just add a shelf or two.

Here is the project.

http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler...2000/index.htm

A system that I am just piecing
together from scraps and throwaways.
Hence the name "Cletus 2000" LOLOL

For a room that
doesn't get used much, primarly for music.

Grabbing Speakers from friends with
rotted surrounds. After repairing 6 of
these I've gotten pretty good at it. LOL

Saturday I replaced the woofers with
Parts Express, Bytyl Rubber Surround
Pioneer 12"ers w/56oz magnets. SPL 91db,
19-5,000hz.

Now going about the bracing. And still playing
with the Fiberglass stuffing amount and spike
height on the mains and mains distance from the wall.

Next will probably be the crossovers...........
Looking at the P.E. Daytons. But will have to get advise
on which Freqs to Xover at. They offer 3 Different Xover points.

[sdclc126]

I see - you can't open up the cabinet. In that case what you can do is partial shelves - cut the largest piece that will fit through the woofer hole and attach it to front, one side and back, for example, then repeat on the other side. Then go back and 2 sides, front & 2 sides, etc.

[ChrisA]

Originally posted by Ric Seyler
[B]

I was thinking the large dowels would be more
aerodynamic and cause less turbulance whithin
the cabinet.

Actually round is about the worst aerodynamic shape although
I doubt it matters. Parachutes are have a spherical shape for a
reason. Even a slight modification from perfectly round gains
you a lot. For example the dimples on a golf ball make for
an overall reduction in turbulent airflow. Even better is the
shape of an American foot ball. But like I said I doubt this maters.
Polyester fill can damp the effect.

[sdclc126]

Hmm...dimpled dowels!