Monitor Audio S6 tweek

Rob_S · 19th January 2008, 04:41 PM

Hi I'm looking for some advice and guidence....

I have some Monitor Audio Silver 6 speakers and now find them a little bright. Is this something that could be improved in the crossover of the speaker?

I've attached the diagram, if anyone could help that would be great.

Also any other tweeks that could be recommended

Many thanks
Rob

Rob_S · 19th January 2008, 05:54 PM

Crossover should make some more sence with the values.

L1 = 4mH inductor 0.7mm wire 10x10x50mm laminated steel core
L2 = 1.0mh inductor 0.7mm wire 40x8x8mm laminated steel core
L3 = 0.2mH inductor 0.4-0.5mm wire Air core bobbin
C1 = 4.0uf Polyester Cap 100v
C2 = 4.7uF (XP) Polypropylene Cap
R1 = 2R7 7W wire wound resistor

Here is the link to the spec http://www.monitoraudio.co.uk/produ...oduct=44&area=2

PALUSE · 21st March 2011, 05:27 PM

Hi Rob.
Sorry i'm late, at least 3 years, but i'm starting to feel some stress with my MA S6!
Now i complain about some mid and treble stress, and lack of ambience retrieval!
Could be the system? A Sony SCD-XA3000-ES with a LME49722 in the differential stage and a OPA2134 in the lowpass stage, plus some Elna Silmic II to beef up the allready heavy power supply!
The amp is an Advance Acoustic MAP-407, with a LM4562 at the first preamp stage and the original OPA2134 in the second stage, with beefed up preamp power supply!
The last amp before de MAP-407 was a NAD C370 and it plays a lot worst with the S6 than the MAP-407!
So what do i have here? Psych mood, bad mains supply, or a bad system?
I look into the crossover schematic and the only thing i could blame instantly is the wire! The rest seems pretty decent to me!
The internal wire is OFC or Alluminium?
Any ideas? The tonal balance is a bit foward and lack acoustical information, although is very warm and confortable with decent sound stage!

Best regards

Paulo

Rob_S · 22nd March 2011, 08:38 PM

I don't know the amps etc that you have. But I also found mine a little bright, so I run a resistor in parallel with the tweeter, I think it was 22R

Would need to go have a look

PALUSE · 22nd March 2011, 10:36 PM

Hi Rob.
Thanks for the reply!
Sorry to ask again... you put a 22Ohms resistor in parallel with the tweeter?
It will stress the amplifier, because it lowers the impedance of the HF network (X_over). Its more polite for the amplifier to put the resistor in serial with the tweeter, to attenuate the signal amplitude (Voltage)!

Best regards

Paulo

AllenB · 23rd March 2011, 04:02 AM

I don't think this will put much stress on the amp. It may have an effect on how it lowers the treble. If you put the resistor in parallel, it will lower the Q of the filter so more lower treble may be attenuated. If you increase the series resitance, more upper treble may be attenuated because the impedance of the existing crossover is higher at the lower treble.

You want to decide whether your system is bright due to the top end being loud, or is it because the lower treble has too much off axis energy.

jerome69 · 23rd March 2011, 08:26 AM

Hi,

Monitor Audio Silver RS6 loudspeaker | Stereophile.com

This measurement's curve looks a Triangle one, a proac response etc. ! too much treble...

You can apply Rob's solution.

But I think you can go further in precision and fineness. See the schema enclosed.

Have fun.

AllenB · 23rd March 2011, 10:58 AM

Good googling, jerome.

After seeing that, noticing the two response peaks and the impedance peak... I'd begin with robs parallel resistor and then increase the series resistor until it sounded better. I'd ignore everything above 10k in this case but I'd also wonder about the woofer's top end.

PALUSE · 23rd March 2011, 01:34 PM

Hi Everybody!Thanks for the support!

Dear Mr. Allen, you're right. If the S6 are similiar to the RS6, then the 22 Ohms resistor in parallel with the tweeter will drop the impedance around 0,7Ohms at 3Khz. Not a stress situation indeed!

Dear Mr. Jerome, you show some insight around the MA S6 X_over.
Did you listen some S6 with the mod you propose, or its an academic exercise, which contains a possible solution?
The Bass unit roll off is not enough, or the 10uF cap helps the integration of the bass unit with midrange unit?
Its well worth to try, only the 10uF in MKP caps are extra expensive. Maybe bipolar cans can do a decent job!Only the tweeter 10uF is crucial, and must be MKP type!

Thanks again for your attention!

I hope i can try it quickly!

Best regards

Paulo

PALUSE · 23rd March 2011, 02:18 PM

Hi again!
We have to remind that the S6 have diferent reflex port locations! The S6 have 2 on the rear, and the RS6 have at least one at the front!So i would be carefull about the bass tweak!

Bye!

19th January 2008, 05:54 PM	#2
Rob_S diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: North East	Values Crossover should make some more sence with the values. L1 = 4mH inductor 0.7mm wire 10x10x50mm laminated steel core L2 = 1.0mh inductor 0.7mm wire 40x8x8mm laminated steel core L3 = 0.2mH inductor 0.4-0.5mm wire Air core bobbin C1 = 4.0uf Polyester Cap 100v C2 = 4.7uF (XP) Polypropylene Cap R1 = 2R7 7W wire wound resistor Here is the link to the spec http://www.monitoraudio.co.uk/produ...oduct=44&area=2

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21st March 2011, 05:27 PM	#3
PALUSE diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2008	Hi Rob. Sorry i'm late, at least 3 years, but i'm starting to feel some stress with my MA S6! Now i complain about some mid and treble stress, and lack of ambience retrieval! Could be the system? A Sony SCD-XA3000-ES with a LME49722 in the differential stage and a OPA2134 in the lowpass stage, plus some Elna Silmic II to beef up the allready heavy power supply! The amp is an Advance Acoustic MAP-407, with a LM4562 at the first preamp stage and the original OPA2134 in the second stage, with beefed up preamp power supply! The last amp before de MAP-407 was a NAD C370 and it plays a lot worst with the S6 than the MAP-407! So what do i have here? Psych mood, bad mains supply, or a bad system? I look into the crossover schematic and the only thing i could blame instantly is the wire! The rest seems pretty decent to me! The internal wire is OFC or Alluminium? Any ideas? The tonal balance is a bit foward and lack acoustical information, although is very warm and confortable with decent sound stage! Best regards Paulo

22nd March 2011, 08:38 PM	#4
Rob_S diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: North East	I don't know the amps etc that you have. But I also found mine a little bright, so I run a resistor in parallel with the tweeter, I think it was 22R Would need to go have a look

22nd March 2011, 10:36 PM	#5
PALUSE diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2008	Hi Rob. Thanks for the reply! Sorry to ask again... you put a 22Ohms resistor in parallel with the tweeter? It will stress the amplifier, because it lowers the impedance of the HF network (X_over). Its more polite for the amplifier to put the resistor in serial with the tweeter, to attenuate the signal amplitude (Voltage)! Best regards Paulo

23rd March 2011, 04:02 AM	#6
AllenB diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2008	I don't think this will put much stress on the amp. It may have an effect on how it lowers the treble. If you put the resistor in parallel, it will lower the Q of the filter so more lower treble may be attenuated. If you increase the series resitance, more upper treble may be attenuated because the impedance of the existing crossover is higher at the lower treble. You want to decide whether your system is bright due to the top end being loud, or is it because the lower treble has too much off axis energy.

23rd March 2011, 10:58 AM	#8
AllenB diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2008	Good googling, jerome. After seeing that, noticing the two response peaks and the impedance peak... I'd begin with robs parallel resistor and then increase the series resistor until it sounded better. I'd ignore everything above 10k in this case but I'd also wonder about the woofer's top end.

23rd March 2011, 01:34 PM	#9
PALUSE diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2008	Hi Everybody!Thanks for the support! Dear Mr. Allen, you're right. If the S6 are similiar to the RS6, then the 22 Ohms resistor in parallel with the tweeter will drop the impedance around 0,7Ohms at 3Khz. Not a stress situation indeed! Dear Mr. Jerome, you show some insight around the MA S6 X_over. Did you listen some S6 with the mod you propose, or its an academic exercise, which contains a possible solution? The Bass unit roll off is not enough, or the 10uF cap helps the integration of the bass unit with midrange unit? Its well worth to try, only the 10uF in MKP caps are extra expensive. Maybe bipolar cans can do a decent job!Only the tweeter 10uF is crucial, and must be MKP type! Thanks again for your attention! I hope i can try it quickly! Best regards Paulo

23rd March 2011, 02:18 PM	#10
PALUSE diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2008	Hi again! We have to remind that the S6 have diferent reflex port locations! The S6 have 2 on the rear, and the RS6 have at least one at the front!So i would be carefull about the bass tweak! Bye!

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