Any use in using these drivers? Please help

[14G-Dutch^]

I bought a set of drivers about 10 yrs ago with the intent of using them in a home theater / Music setup. I am now unsure if anything really is what i want to use to achieve my goals. My original intent after some (mis)guidance from a guy at PE was to build a Sub with the 2 12's, and Do 3 MTMs for Fronts and Center and Mts for rears. These were the Drivers recommended, and they sold me Stock PE Crossovers I had very little experience so I said Ok and bought them.

These are the drivers:

SUB:

2 Dayton 12" woofers. While I am inclined to say Series 2, I need to clarify: These are a different version of the Series 2 .....The Specs on the box read:

12" Treated Paper/Dustcap Rubber surround
Response = 29-3000Hz
Vas =7.62 Cu Ft
Fs = 29 Hz
Qts = .34
SPL = 93.4 1W/1M
Magnet = 67Oz.
2 1/2" Vc 275 Watts
8 Ohms

These now seem to be a bad choice due to an apparent (to me anyways) a lack of the ability to get Really low

Woofer/Mid:

Audax 6.5 " woofers AT17OMO

I have given up on using these as woofers, or even mid woofers due to the responses given to me here:

Thead

Tweeters:

Vifa D27TG-05 1" Silk Dome Tweeter

Link:

These seem to be the most usable at this point. I will continue in the next post-read on please....

[14G-Dutch^]

So, After doing some research on these drivers they just don't seem to foot the bill. Am I maybe overlooking an opportunity? The Tweeters seem usable. I am inclined to use them with some Dayton RS150S-8 6" in am MTM for L/R Center and a MT for rears. Maybe crossed around 3K?

I have poured over designs and read a ton. I am overburdened and short on time at this juncture in my life. I would love to learn again all of the nuances of building again, but time is so limited. Can anyone give some Suggestions?

Jon

[simon5]

Hi, those subs are useable, they don't go that low but they are useable. You could do Isobaric clamshell vented enclosure, if you have a lot of space you could go vented.

You could also do a horn, TL, Tapped Horn, not the best driver probably but I'm sure you can do something.

For the midwoofer I'll let someone else talk.

[14G-Dutch^]

What would be the best approach to get the lowest frequency possible? I am Going to PartsExpress today. (Yes that is what I said
going . I live in Ohio so I have a great benefit of getting to go see the stuff I am buying. I think I will be picking up some 6' RS Daytons. i guess I will see after I get there...

Jon

[95Honda]

I built a set of speakers about, well, 10 years ago using those same 12s, same tweeters and 5.25" Vifas. I was actually pretty happy with the way those subs sounded at the time.

Man, that was a long time ago. It was in a straight forward vented alignment tuned around 25Hz, IIRC.... A single 3" I.D. port was all that was needed. I was a really good match to that tweeter and mid.

I was powering it off of a 100wpc NAD reciever at the time and they really did good. Honestly, I think they might surprise you. I pretty much designed the cabinets like the NHTs of the time, I'm sure you'll see that.

I never ran into this problem with that 12", but the 15" series II had serious mechanical issues, they would bottom out very easily, without audible distortion or any other precursers to let you know they weren't happy, and at mediocre power levels, I was not happy with the 3 or 4 of them I had used, they sounded good, but I was always afraid they would be damaged.

[PeteMcK]

Simm'd those daytons in WINISD; a -3dB ESB alignment tuned to 25Hz works well down to the mid 20s; the price you pay however is a huge cabinet, ~250L... (~9cu ft)

A more practical size, 125L tuned to 35Hz gets you into the mid 30s with no problems

[14G-Dutch^]

Originally posted by 95Honda
I built a set of speakers about, well, 10 years ago using those same 12s, same tweeters and 5.25" Vifas. I was actually pretty happy with the way those subs sounded at the time.

Man, that was a long time ago. It was in a straight forward vented alignment tuned around 25Hz, IIRC.... A single 3" I.D. port was all that was needed. I was a really good match to that tweeter and mid.

I was powering it off of a 100wpc NAD reciever at the time and they really did good. Honestly, I think they might surprise you. I pretty much designed the cabinets like the NHTs of the time, I'm sure you'll see that.

I never ran into this problem with that 12", but the 15" series II had serious mechanical issues, they would bottom out very easily, without audible distortion or any other precursers to let you know they weren't happy, and at mediocre power levels, I was not happy with the 3 or 4 of them I had used, they sounded good, but I was always afraid they would be damaged.

Really? Same tweeters even? Pretty amazing coincidence




Do you think you could dig up anything on the enclosure design? Do you recall what the F3 was? How did the tweeters perform? Hopefully well. It would be great if i could integrate those tweeters and woofers into my goals.

[14G-Dutch^]

Originally posted by PeteMcK
Simm'd those daytons in WINISD; a -3dB ESB alignment tuned to 25Hz works well down to the mid 20s; the price you pay however is a huge cabinet, ~250L... (~9cu ft)

A more practical size, 125L tuned to 35Hz gets you into the mid 30s with no problems

Thanks Pete,

Sorry....ESB? assuming something Sealed Box? Thanks for simming them for me. I used to have a good program for it, but I can't find it now. I appreciate your replies guys.

Jon

[tinitus]

To me it sounds like you have ok drivers to make a decent standard 3way

Your worst problem may still be the crossover in any case

[95Honda]

I can't remember too much, but I am pretty sure the woofer had 2.5-3ft3, there was a very small chamber behind the mid/tweeter, and the rest of the cabinet was for the woofer. The cabinet was actually a lot bigger than it looks in the picture, it was quite deep really.

For the crossover, I think I had copied one that Madisound offered as a kit with those same tweeters and 5 1/4", It could have been some other manufacturuer, I don't know, but I copied that part. Then I just did an additional 2nd order electrical high-pass on the 5 1/4" at around 100Hz and a 1st order lowpass on the sub around 80Hz, IIRC.

I couldn't give you an honest opinion of the tweeters. When I built those I was stationed in Korea. I had built them in our Vehicle maintenance work bay, it had taken almost a month. I made jigs to cut each piece one at a time with a skill saw. Everything was sanded by hand and I sprayed about 5-6 coats of Dupont primer/filler and a buch of high gloss black enamel coats over that, with tons of wet sanding. It was such a miracle we completed them there, that we (and everyone around us) thought they were awesome.

The tweeters were probably a little bright/harsh, but we didn't care, We all still thought they sounded, real, real good. In a medium size dorm room that had concrete walls(we all lived in these quarters) they absolutely got down, they imaged real well, had good midrange and really hammered out the bottom end. But still, this listening wasn't under much scruitiny. We were really just having fun with this project, take it for what it is I guess.