Replace crossover in existing box

[planet10]

Here is the XO pic with parts drawn in (i made a few assumptions to cover the missing stuff)

dave

[ccdoggy]

That is exactly what it is.

So with the T/S and box volume (im sure i can figure out the port tune then) I can create a "good" crossover, yes/no?

I guess im just not clear on where to start and what to do.

I appreciate all the help in clearing this up.

[planet10]

And a redrawn XO map that is a bit easier to see what they are doing (it is the same as the one posted earlier)

It is a series XO and somewhat related to the diaural XO topolopgy.

dave

[ccdoggy]

Actually now that i look at the other speaker It says " Licensed by DiAural" on the back.

out of curiosity on a scale of 1-10 what would you make of this crossover. would it be worth replacing?

[planet10]

Originally posted by ccdoggy
Actually now that i look at the other speaker It says " Licensed by DiAural" on the back.

out of curiosity on a scale of 1-10 what would you make of this crossover. would it be worth replacing?

To my mind the whole DiAural thing is just a way of saying "our XO tech is patented". A properly done series XO (which would be a development on the diaural) would be better IMHO. You would take the air core inductor, toss everything else and put a cap in shunt across the woofer.

http://www.t-linespeakers.org/tech/filters/diaural.html

dave

[ccdoggy]

I would then still need to compensate for the sensitivity of the tweeter vs woofer, which is 91db for the tweeter and 86db for the woofer.

Sorry for the basic questions, im still trying to grasp and comprehend the uses.

[PeteMcK]

Dave,

I think one end of the 7.5 ohm resistor is connected to the -ve of the tweeter, not the input?...if so, it's easy to convert it to a 'normal' series xover (with BSC provided by the 2nd L) by replacing the resistor with a cap. Of course, then the tweeter would then need to be padded.

Whether changing the xover would make much difference depends on the drivers' responses outside the xover passband,
do you know what model numbers they are Ccdoggy?

Cheers,
Pete McK

[planet10]

Originally posted by PeteMcK
I think one end of the 7.5 ohm resistor is connected to the -ve of the tweeter, not the input?

Thanks for the QC,.. i have fixed it.

...if so, it's easy to convert it to a 'normal' series xover (with BSC provided by the 2nd L) by replacing the resistor with a cap. Of course, then the tweeter would then need to be padded.

That would change the low pass to 2nd order from 1st as well... the series iron-core inductor could be shorted to bring it back to 1st order.

It would certainly be simpler with less energy loss in that inductor and in the shunt resistor.

dave

[ccdoggy]

The tweeter is a Vifa D26NC-15-06 and the woofer is a Vifa BC14SG49-08.

T/S specs:

Tweeter:
Size:72mm
VC:26mm
dB:91
W:100
Z:6
Re:4.6
Le:.05
Ce:2.4
Fs:1500
Vas:-
Qms:1.5
Qes:2.3
Qts:.90
Xmax:0.3

Woofer:
Re: 5.55
Le: 0.6
Fs: 53
Qms: 2.73
Qes: 0.53
Qts: 0.45
Mms: 7.8
Vas: 10.5
dB: 86
Vc: 25mm
Bl: 5.2

[sreten]

Hi,

http://madisound.com/pdf/Swifty.pdf

Is a good place to start for a new crossover, mid/bass section at least.
The treble section needs a little fiddling due to the 4R tweeter and the lack of known sensitivity.

/sreten.