woofer
Audiotechnology makes nice woofers, but I'm really looking for a sub. I was thinking Aura, Peerless XXLS, Scan-speak's 9", or maybe Diamond Car Audio's TDX drivers. I want a sealed or passive radiator design. I don't want a refrigerator. Since it's active crossovers, I can taylor a sealed driver as I need for low range extention.
Mr. Linkwitz seems to be cozy with Peerless, but I'm worried that the quality of the driver isn't there. I tried some of their HDS drivers some time ago and I was really disapointed. I like the Aura, but I don't want a big box. Same goes for the Diamond driver. The scan speak is a nice idea, but I think it might be too small of a cone for what I need.
Audiotechnology makes nice woofers, but I'm really looking for a sub. I was thinking Aura, Peerless XXLS, Scan-speak's 9", or maybe Diamond Car Audio's TDX drivers. I want a sealed or passive radiator design. I don't want a refrigerator. Since it's active crossovers, I can taylor a sealed driver as I need for low range extention.
Mr. Linkwitz seems to be cozy with Peerless, but I'm worried that the quality of the driver isn't there. I tried some of their HDS drivers some time ago and I was really disapointed. I like the Aura, but I don't want a big box. Same goes for the Diamond driver. The scan speak is a nice idea, but I think it might be too small of a cone for what I need.
The 23W from Scan-Speak is a very nice woofer especially if you don't have huge SPL requirements, want deep (quality) extension, and want a small box. I have one in a box and one in a ported test cab. The ported alignment is nice, even though I'm not a fan of ported boxes. I will try sealed next but need to acquire more of them.
I doubt you can go wrong with Aura as well,
C
I doubt you can go wrong with Aura as well,
C
project coming along
ok it took a really long time to get to this point with all the other stuff I have going on, but here goes....
The faceplates and rear spines of my mini's are back from my machinist and cam out awsome. I sanded out the milling marks with 160 grit and used a self etch automotive primer followed by an automotive black trim pain. They look AWSOME!!! The plywood cross sections will be back from the water jet company on wedensday and I have all the other hardware. I'm using the same cardas posts that magico uses and overall they look almost identical.. There are a few tiny changes in the shape, but you would really have to have them next to each other to see it.
So far here are my costs:
aluminum from ebay - about $150.00
milling faceplates $800.00 2 HAAS machines running 8 hours at $50/hr.
milling rear plates $60.00
milling woofer retainer clips - $ 60.00
cardas posts - $80.00
ss tweeters - $350.00 at the trading post section of this site.
atd woofers - $1200.00 from e-speakers
hardware - $75.00 from Mcmaster Carr
plywood - $130.00 - home depot - no i didn't use baltic birch it was 4 times the price and special order. Also not a huge difference in the end result
Everythin was designed on Alibre and I exported the filed in iges format into mastercam to mill the parts
I'll post pics later this week.
for stands I'm going to build some matching subs. I tried several drivers and the best were some of the cheapest. by far my favorites were the dayton reference 15" HF driver. Since they are limited in x-max I'm going to use 2 per sub with 2 subs. I'm going to power the subs with hypex 2kw amps. Now I just need a crossover.
ok it took a really long time to get to this point with all the other stuff I have going on, but here goes....
The faceplates and rear spines of my mini's are back from my machinist and cam out awsome. I sanded out the milling marks with 160 grit and used a self etch automotive primer followed by an automotive black trim pain. They look AWSOME!!! The plywood cross sections will be back from the water jet company on wedensday and I have all the other hardware. I'm using the same cardas posts that magico uses and overall they look almost identical.. There are a few tiny changes in the shape, but you would really have to have them next to each other to see it.
So far here are my costs:
aluminum from ebay - about $150.00
milling faceplates $800.00 2 HAAS machines running 8 hours at $50/hr.
milling rear plates $60.00
milling woofer retainer clips - $ 60.00
cardas posts - $80.00
ss tweeters - $350.00 at the trading post section of this site.
atd woofers - $1200.00 from e-speakers
hardware - $75.00 from Mcmaster Carr
plywood - $130.00 - home depot - no i didn't use baltic birch it was 4 times the price and special order. Also not a huge difference in the end result
Everythin was designed on Alibre and I exported the filed in iges format into mastercam to mill the parts
I'll post pics later this week.
for stands I'm going to build some matching subs. I tried several drivers and the best were some of the cheapest. by far my favorites were the dayton reference 15" HF driver. Since they are limited in x-max I'm going to use 2 per sub with 2 subs. I'm going to power the subs with hypex 2kw amps. Now I just need a crossover.
Re: project coming along
That seems more expensive than it should be, not the running time - but rather the cost for job itself ..rather like it was spending a lot of time slowly milling down large sections.
You might have been able to save a bit overall by using emachineshop.com (..they also do oxidizing finishes).
I know, too late now.
mp006ltk said:
That seems more expensive than it should be, not the running time - but rather the cost for job itself ..rather like it was spending a lot of time slowly milling down large sections.
You might have been able to save a bit overall by using emachineshop.com (..they also do oxidizing finishes).
I know, too late now.
follow up
I looked at a pair of v-3's at the local dealer here in chicago and the seem to be painted, not oxidized as you put it. On aluminum the process is anodizing like pots and pans. when you compare against the real thing they look identical and the finish only cost me 30 bucks to spray.
As far as the milling. The machine I used is pretty much the same thing as magico uses. HAAS VF-1 with tool changer. Along with mastercam software, I don't think it could be done much quicker. I think Magico states 6 hours each but I would hope that when your running that many of them you could cut down on the machine time by refining the program and using custom mounting jigs. You could also make a sand casting to avoid having to go through the roughing stage. Other machine shops were FAR more expensive. I've looked at many of the online machine shops and prototyping services and they are rediculous!!!!!!! I have had numerous parts run by my guy and he is often half or a quarter the price of everyone else.
I looked at a pair of v-3's at the local dealer here in chicago and the seem to be painted, not oxidized as you put it. On aluminum the process is anodizing like pots and pans. when you compare against the real thing they look identical and the finish only cost me 30 bucks to spray.
As far as the milling. The machine I used is pretty much the same thing as magico uses. HAAS VF-1 with tool changer. Along with mastercam software, I don't think it could be done much quicker. I think Magico states 6 hours each but I would hope that when your running that many of them you could cut down on the machine time by refining the program and using custom mounting jigs. You could also make a sand casting to avoid having to go through the roughing stage. Other machine shops were FAR more expensive. I've looked at many of the online machine shops and prototyping services and they are rediculous!!!!!!! I have had numerous parts run by my guy and he is often half or a quarter the price of everyone else.
Re: follow up
You can change the surface texture before the oxidation process to achieve various finishes. You can also vary the thickness of the oxidation.
If Magico's is not that, then it's likely its a powder coat enamel. So yeah, basically paint.
On a single machine it probably couldn't be done much quicker. BUT a machine shop has multiple machines - which usually can speed the process along particularly if a fair bit of material needs to be removed.
As far as the price though, you may be correct that your method resulted in overall savings. Don't know.
Anyway, I wish you luck with the project!
mp006ltk said:
You can change the surface texture before the oxidation process to achieve various finishes. You can also vary the thickness of the oxidation.
If Magico's is not that, then it's likely its a powder coat enamel. So yeah, basically paint.
On a single machine it probably couldn't be done much quicker. BUT a machine shop has multiple machines - which usually can speed the process along particularly if a fair bit of material needs to be removed.
As far as the price though, you may be correct that your method resulted in overall savings. Don't know.
Anyway, I wish you luck with the project!
reply
It wouldn't look right if I painted them neon green now would it.
As far as your remarks, here goes:
No I don't intend to sell them
None of my friends are into audio, so they won't impress anyone.
Why pay 25K for something I can build and have fun doing for around 3K when all is said and done.
Lastly if you don't intend to contribute to this topic in a meaningful way go somewhere else.
It wouldn't look right if I painted them neon green now would it.
As far as your remarks, here goes:
No I don't intend to sell them
None of my friends are into audio, so they won't impress anyone.
Why pay 25K for something I can build and have fun doing for around 3K when all is said and done.
Lastly if you don't intend to contribute to this topic in a meaningful way go somewhere else.
here they are
They still need crossovers, final sanding and stain, but I think they are looking pretty good. The font baffle and spine are aluminum, and all the internal bracing is identical to the real thing. I don't plan on using a bucking magnet like Magico does, becasye I actually saw performance drop quite a bit when I measured the driver with it attached. I can't wait to see what they sound like.
They still need crossovers, final sanding and stain, but I think they are looking pretty good. The font baffle and spine are aluminum, and all the internal bracing is identical to the real thing. I don't plan on using a bucking magnet like Magico does, becasye I actually saw performance drop quite a bit when I measured the driver with it attached. I can't wait to see what they sound like.
Attachments
I think it would have to be attached with some kind of permanent fixative to really be a bucking magnet correct? Opposite polarity and all? If it was attached with the orientation so that you lose your fingers and don't need glue, than it isn't "bucking"....
But I could easily be mistaken,
Chris
But I could easily be mistaken,
Chris
magnet
it was attached with epoxy. It was attached in the direction where forced apposed each other until contact with the back of the driver. When I saw the performace and the reduction in low end performance I stuck a chissel between them and popped it back off. It didnt' damage the driver so no biggie.
it was attached with epoxy. It was attached in the direction where forced apposed each other until contact with the back of the driver. When I saw the performace and the reduction in low end performance I stuck a chissel between them and popped it back off. It didnt' damage the driver so no biggie.
I'd suggest staying away from Home Depot plywood. Plywood is not the same any more. Cores are coming from China now days and exhibit all kinds of problems including excessive voids, delamination and warping. For a nice project like this I'd spring for an multiply (manufactured in Finland).
Hopefully you will not have any of the problems because it's a nice looking speaker.
Hopefully you will not have any of the problems because it's a nice looking speaker.
now that I have done it...
yeah I kind if recomend using baltic birch too, After having done it with regular cabinet ply from HD, I would day that two things can save a ton of time.
1. Pay for the better wood.
2. Dont' use a waterjet to cut it like I did. Instead rough cut with a rotozip and final cut with a template and a flush cut bit on a router table. I am actually going to remake the cabinets when I get time out of baltic birch and use a pattern I made from aluminum on the CNC machine. The template has drill guides built in to make the guide holes with a high degree of precision.
I only wish I could find 1" baltic birch plywood. I have been laminating 1/2" sheets.
i actually had to add one additional sheed to compensate for the slightly undersized thickness of the plywood. The last layer isn't full thickness. It was planed to size.
yeah I kind if recomend using baltic birch too, After having done it with regular cabinet ply from HD, I would day that two things can save a ton of time.
1. Pay for the better wood.
2. Dont' use a waterjet to cut it like I did. Instead rough cut with a rotozip and final cut with a template and a flush cut bit on a router table. I am actually going to remake the cabinets when I get time out of baltic birch and use a pattern I made from aluminum on the CNC machine. The template has drill guides built in to make the guide holes with a high degree of precision.
I only wish I could find 1" baltic birch plywood. I have been laminating 1/2" sheets.
i actually had to add one additional sheed to compensate for the slightly undersized thickness of the plywood. The last layer isn't full thickness. It was planed to size.
For those who haven't seen it, here is a curved sided cab I made using solid Jarrah for the sides, top and bottom.
I think I want to remake the stand at some stage.
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~gradds55/jarrah1.jpg
I think I want to remake the stand at some stage.
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~gradds55/jarrah1.jpg
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