Magico Mini

[mp006ltk]

They still need crossovers, final sanding and stain, but I think they are looking pretty good. The font baffle and spine are aluminum, and all the internal bracing is identical to the real thing. I don't plan on using a bucking magnet like Magico does, becasye I actually saw performance drop quite a bit when I measured the driver with it attached. I can't wait to see what they sound like.

[Peter M.]

Originally posted by mp006ltk
They still need crossovers, final sanding and stain, but I think they are looking pretty good. The font baffle and spine are aluminum, and all the internal bracing is identical to the real thing. I don't plan on using a bucking magnet like Magico does, becasye I actually saw performance drop quite a bit when I measured the driver with it attached. I can't wait to see what they sound like.

Hi,
How did you attach the bucking magnet? If you orient it the wrong way it will no doubt reduce its performance.

Peter

[chrismercurio]

I think it would have to be attached with some kind of permanent fixative to really be a bucking magnet correct? Opposite polarity and all? If it was attached with the orientation so that you lose your fingers and don't need glue, than it isn't "bucking"....

But I could easily be mistaken,

Chris

[mp006ltk]

it was attached with epoxy. It was attached in the direction where forced apposed each other until contact with the back of the driver. When I saw the performace and the reduction in low end performance I stuck a chissel between them and popped it back off. It didnt' damage the driver so no biggie.

[Salas]

What about crossover work?

[R-Carpenter]

I'd suggest staying away from Home Depot plywood. Plywood is not the same any more. Cores are coming from China now days and exhibit all kinds of problems including excessive voids, delamination and warping. For a nice project like this I'd spring for an multiply (manufactured in Finland).
Hopefully you will not have any of the problems because it's a nice looking speaker.

[mp006ltk]

yeah I kind if recomend using baltic birch too, After having done it with regular cabinet ply from HD, I would day that two things can save a ton of time.
1. Pay for the better wood.
2. Dont' use a waterjet to cut it like I did. Instead rough cut with a rotozip and final cut with a template and a flush cut bit on a router table. I am actually going to remake the cabinets when I get time out of baltic birch and use a pattern I made from aluminum on the CNC machine. The template has drill guides built in to make the guide holes with a high degree of precision.

I only wish I could find 1" baltic birch plywood. I have been laminating 1/2" sheets.

i actually had to add one additional sheed to compensate for the slightly undersized thickness of the plywood. The last layer isn't full thickness. It was planed to size.

[Andy G]

For those who haven't seen it, here is a curved sided cab I made using solid Jarrah for the sides, top and bottom.

I think I want to remake the stand at some stage.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/~gradds55/jarrah1.jpg

[R-Carpenter]

And yet another trans lam for a friend.

[Andy G]

Originally posted by R-Carpenter
And yet another trans lam for a friend.

yeah, that is a really, really nice build