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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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http://www.hostboard.com/cgi-bin/ult.../f/3729/t/3273
Greets! Averaged specs used: Fs' 28.84 Qts' 0.307 Qms' 4.614 Qes' 0.329 Vas' (L) 473.024 Re' 6.442 Le' 1.295 Sd' 856.336 BL' 15.383 Sens' 97.24 Znom' 8 Being fond of the 800 series cab's baffle proportions, an 81" long folded pipe looks good with internal dims of 40.5" H x 28.5" W x 18.75" D including 3/4" divider, so just a hair over the 12 ft^3 limit with external dims of 42" W x 30" W x 20.25" D. Driver down from top front 8.5" and 6" dia. (or other shape = 28.274"^2) x 2" vent on the rear up 17.56" from the bottom for a ~27 Hz Fb. GM
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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Ah. Now we're talking 'proper' speakers.
Nice one Greg.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Thanks!
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
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Thanks GM!
The partition would be dividing the box in half width-wise I assume. Is the height of the partition such that the opening between the two halves is the same as the cross sections? With the partition going side to side will two braces front to back be enough? I'm planning on crossing the 511 at 800Hz, I have an electronic crossover that I can play with to start but at some point I'll do some passives. I'll post some progress photos as things move along. This close to Xmas, it will have to start in early January. My wife is OK with the cabinets but she wants me to help with shopping. A good trade off for me. Thanks again for your help and patience, I really appreciate the effort on your part. Kyle. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Greets!
You're welcome! I really need to take the time to learn how to draw with a CAD program (sigh)......... Correct. Correct again, more or less, since an aspect ratio other than 1.0:1.414 won't have the same gap between the internal top and divider baffle edge if the corners don't have appropriately sized angle boards with their voids filled with Portland cement or a similarly massive material. Combined with a heavy driver though, this makes for a very top heavy speaker, so typically I didn't bother to do this, only tacking a big wad of R-19 fiberglass insulation in the top corners to damp out any out-of-BW mids/HF reflections. Note that the top plate is a high pressure point, so either doubling up its thickness or making it out of a massive material is required for good mechanical efficiency. Assuming 11-13 lam 19 mm Baltic Birch or Appleply, it's all I'd add, though I'd place it at a golden or acoustic ratio to average out any panel resonances. Note that supporting/bracing/mass loading the driver is key to best performance, but we'll talk more when you get to that stage. Anyway, this is just one design, I'm planning to do at least one more, a Weems style Voigt pipe similar to Jay Fisher's stillborn Iconic 704 alignment, so a January start date leaves me plenty of time in theory. GM
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
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Thanks GM.
I have a couple of drawing programs here that I haven't touched for a while. I'll load one up and see if I can still use it. The basic shape should be easy enough to model. Kyle. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Would this cabinet be a suitable design for the Iconic/GPA 704/604 drivers?
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Greets!
Yeah, what we need is one that allows us to freehand sketch it and the program squares it all up except for angles, which we'd have to define somehow, then scale it from inputted dims. Anyway, when I mentioned adding bracing I didn't mean for you to actually do any until I could define it a bit, though as long as the top back center brace pre-loaded/supported the driver it looks fine, if maybe a bit much if the appropriate plywood is used. Not that you can have too much bracing, just a point of diminishing returns that mostly just reduces net Vb. GM
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