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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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I have a pair of Dunlavy SC-IV and I have had to replace one blown tweeter when I purchased them initially a few years ago. The tweeter is starting to distort in one of the speakers at a relatively low SPL, and it needs to be replaced. I'm going to take the tweeter out and see if it is the original Dunlavy driver (Vifa D27TG-35-06) or the one I already replaced.
Upgrade time? I'm thinking I want to replace both tweeters with something different. I know that tweeters in these speakers tend to blow fairly easy due to the 1st order crossover and played at a higher than ususal SPL (which I'm sure is what happened to the original driver I had to replace), and I woud like something that sounds the same but is a little more robust. I plan on doing some audio server based DRC, and I know that I will probably end up at some point sending some nasty signals into my speakers...and toasting the tweeters. Now onto the questions.... Have any Dunlavy owners on this board substituted a different tweeter on their SC-IV (or any other Dunlavy that uses that Vifa tweeter)? Does anyone have a schematic of the crossover for the SC-IV? Has anyone ever completely bypassed the passive crossovers and converted their Dunlavy's to a fully active crossover loudspeaker? (I know that may be heresy to some people, but I know I can eek out a little better performance with a little DSP magic.) By the way, this is my first post on the board. I have been trolling the site for awhile, and I am very impressed by the many DIY projects I've seen on this site. You people have done some incredible work...I'm so happy to see that there are still this many audio nuts around.
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: The Wilds Of Canada
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The problem seems to be the crossover design. I've run into this exact problem before on this exact model.
We went through every single possible source of the issue. The system in our case, was with an active room correction system being involved and some highly unusual speaker cables, as well. After over 1 year of going over every single possible issue, I walked away, as I was not directly involved in the sale nor service of the system. I personally concluded that the crossover design was at fault. There is a resonance issue in crossover for the tweeter, or energy feeding back from other drivers via combined grounding. IMHO. It needs to be re-designed. The same tweeters were blown three times, even after the 'newer' tweeters were installed as a potential fix. How this speaker design ever made it out the door with this flaw is a total mystery to me. It may have come down to a constructional issue, with the given technician who made that exact unit. Or, its simply a fact that John made those designs with too much bottom end (low frequencies) for the tweeters to handle. The crossovers will likely have to be pulled and compared, if the only the one tweeter is failing. We are hoping this is the final answer on this particular issue, involving this series of Dunlavy speakers. You are not alone.
__________________
"Never forget that only dead fish swim with the stream." -- Malcolm Muggeridge. "Truth cannot be brought down, rather the individual must make the effort to ascend to it." -- Jiddu Krishnamurti |
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#3 |
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Banned
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Portal 2012
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The pair I had required a box of replacement diaphrams at all times. I used them like fuses.. expensive ones. they are a poor design if you want spl out of them. I sold mine with zero regrets. If you are going to triamp build your own speaker. The pair of home brew speakers I listen to right now are wayyyyyy better then the sc4, and yep I think the dunlavys were pretty good for store bought high end stuff other than a terribly designed crossover
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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Does anyone know of a source for the replacement diphrams and voice coil for this speaker? If I had a couple extras, I would feel a little more confident with my room correction adventures.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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Nevermid the last question. I found a place that sells them for $10 a pop (no pun intended). I'll ask them how many they have in stock and buy a bunch. I'm hoping they have them in stock.
I took apart the orignal tweeter I had to replace, and saw that it is easy to replace the diaphragm / vc (3 screws, pop it out, pop in the new one). I wish I would have known this when I bought my first replacement driver.....I would have bought a ton of these replacements diaphragms instead. |
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#6 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Portal 2012
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Quote:
You could fuse them with an in line fuse to the tweeter, maybe start out at .5 amp and work your way up - that would be cheaper and easier |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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First off....thanks for mentioning the replacement diaphrams!!! I forgot that those were even offered.
I'm powering mine with 2 AETechron amplifiers (used for hospital MR equipment).....I'm guessing around 300-350 watts per channel. I've never measured them, but I know I like the way they sound. As you mentioned how easy it was to replace the diaphram....I was shocked to see it was that easy. I was just a little nervous about messing with the drivers, and I didn't want to order a diaphram to find out it was overly complicated and sensitive to allignment. I was very pleased to find out that Vifa made it easy enough that even I could do it! I didn't see them on Madisound's site (first place I checked..where I bought my replacement driver). I'm going to call them on Monday. After googling, I found a place in Cali that has (hopefully not "had") them. Anyone ever purchased from this company? http://www.speakercity.com Now that I'm going the diaphragm replacement route, I have a couple more questions. Dunlavy matched drivers when the speakers were built.....are there huge differences between the magnet structures with these tweeters? Are the replacement diaphragms fairly consistent between each other? Since these seem to use ferrofluid (or some type of non-conductive grease?).....are there any recommedations as to what kind to use and how much of it I should use when I replace the diaphram? Any recommendations on rebuilding these drivers would be appreciated. |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
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Quote:
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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You may want to consider something like a Morel MDT33 as a more robust replacement.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
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If anyone's felt surrounds for the tweeter are getting long in the tooth, I have replaced quite a few. Just lemme know. Cheers
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