Best X-over parts

[Tomv]

I'm on the search for the best crossover parts (capacitors, inductors and resistors) no matter the cost.
I started off thinking that Mundorf was the best choice but seen that that's not the case. Lately I've heard of Audio Note and Jensen for capacitors and inductors and Caddock and Mills for resistors.
Could you please shed some light on this issue?

[chrismercurio]

take a look at Duelund.

$,

C

[Tomv]

Originally posted by chrismercurio
take a look at Duelund.

$,

C

But does it really sound better?

[chrismercurio]

I haven't bought any Duelund parts. My pockets aren't that deep. I have owned and used "premium" parts from several vendors and they always sound different and in many cases better than their cheaper counterpart.

Like everything else, you can ask for everyone's opinion, or you can buy and find out for yourself, which is what I recommend. No one can tell you what the best midrange driver sounds like or is. You have to try until you find something you can live with and what your pocketbook allows.

http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html

Tony has tested most of the premium stuff...and their is a nice translation from a Chinese mag about caps.

http://www.vhaudio.com/21capacitorshootout.pdf

C

[Tomv]

Also, what is the best in-speaker wire?

[chrismercurio]

Again, it is what YOU like.

I like Belden, Mogami, Analysis Plus, Shunyata, Harmonic Technology and Canare.

What is the "Best" stereo you have ever heard?

C

[pinkmouse]

I'm with Chris, there is no best. You might have the most exotic inductor in the world, but if its DCR is wrong for your circuit, then a 2$ part might sound much better.

[R-Carpenter]

I wander if any golden ear out there will be able to hear the difference between a most expensive capacitor and, say Solen polypropylene. Blindfolded of cause.
Speaker wire makes very little difference if any. It should be proper gage. Your connections to the woofer and terminals are much more important.
I’ve seen a few times already, then people get expensive drivers, and the rest of the electronics and get crappy results.

[janusz]

If costs are no problem then I suggest you go active. Especially if you like fidelity rather than coloration. This is the best way to get the best of your speakers. For the price of the most expensive passive crossover parts you will be able to built a good active two way crossover and probably enough change to build half of some mid-power two channel PA.

If your system is three way you may go for a first order passive crossover (difficult to get it wrong) from midrange to tweeter. My experience here is similar to R-Carpenter. Sufficiently thick wires, good but sensibly priced caps such as Solen or similar, good connectors (and if necessary resistors) are absolutely sufficient to built a good passive crossover.

I cannot hear a difference between Solen 630V caps I'm usually using and snake oil caps no matter how expensive. Not so perfect passive crossovers (especially higher order), however, generate distortions in "cooperation" with PAs and drivers. Keep in mind that even the best passive crossovers are not so perfect.

The difference between active and passive system, however, is heard by almost anyone at higher listening levels.

cheers,

[Conrad Hoffman]

I can't imagine ever going back to passive crossovers. A properly done active system has so many advantages including efficient power use, detail, clarity, lack of coloration, lack of expensive snake oil parts, and straightforward design. Even though my 3-way system isn't all that fancy or expensive (Morel tweets, Dynaudio midbass), or even all that good right now (I had to replace my good but aging woofers with something only so-so), every time I hear even a high end passive system, it has obvious flaws I'd have a hard time living with. Why would anybody spend hundreds of dollars on capacitors, and a bunch more on the world's worst component (inductors), when an active could be built for the same price?