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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
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Hey guys, this is my second speaker project. First was a simple set of bookshelfs.
Design uses Seas Prestige H1189 tweeters, H1350 mid and 2x H1305 10" woofers. Port diameter/length hasnt been set yet, so I am open to suggestions! |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Melb
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your cabinet design looks very nice, your speaker design looks very ambitious as well.
the scanspeak has a new top tweeter (I forget the model name) is very good, the peerless tweeter is very good too, model:***921(don't know the exact model no.). the latter is much cheaper, about US$75-90 each midbass/range is crucial, depending on your musical taste, if you like vocal, paper bass cone is very good. I tend to opt for mid range with high efficiency, eg. 90dB min., with your design you will lose 1-3dB due to BSC. the actual eff. you will get is around 87-89dB, to me is too low still. Maybe you have a high powered amp. to drive it to give it the musical scale you need. you are starting from scratch, it is risky, eg get x-over right, etc. all the best..... go to this site: http://www.stereotimes.com/look for: The Penaudio Serenade Loudspeaker under archives, to get inspirations. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
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Thanks, I already have the mid and tweeter, but havent bought the bass drivers yet. I would REALLY like to build with a set of scan speaks, but they are a little spendy for this project. Maybe next set!
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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May I suggest putting one bass driver on the opposite side, and running a short bar, or block of MDF on the inside to mechanically connect them. This would effectively cancel out the vibrations from the woofs. (It might cause you to have to widen the front baffle though, and you might not want to do that either.)
I would also put them as close to the floor as possible, which would help them get a slightly flatter response in the room, and get a tad more bass. It looks real good though. Good luck!
__________________
People in audio whom I admire.... Henry Kloss, Edgar Villchur, John Dahlquist, Bowers and Wilkins, Theil and Small, Don Keele, our own Nelson Pass. In short VISIONARIES. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
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Ok, made a couple changes...
Opposing bass drivers on the bottom as shown in the picture. I haven't drawn any internal structure yet, but I'll probably put some in. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
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And the other side...I can email the edrawings file if anyone wants to take a more detailed peek
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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Oh...I would put the port on the bottom also. Or you could do what B&W did, raise the whole thing, and down fire the port in to the floor with about 3" clearance. (802's) Sometimes there can be some lower midrange muck coming out of the port, and because of that, I would have it close to the floor, to reinforce the bass more, and away from the upper range speakers. Also use as wide, (which means longer) vent that you can get away with, and flare the ends inside and out to reduce chuffing sounds.
Yeah I'd love to see the file.
__________________
People in audio whom I admire.... Henry Kloss, Edgar Villchur, John Dahlquist, Bowers and Wilkins, Theil and Small, Don Keele, our own Nelson Pass. In short VISIONARIES. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Western Sydney
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I think using the H1350 just for mids is a bit of a waste, instead of the 2 woofers, why not just add another H1305?
as 2.5 way system I reckon it would be great... |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
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It won't let me send you an email, what is your address?
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
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Pete, would using a Seas H1262 in place of the H1350 work "better" in your opinion? Saving the H1350s for a later project?
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