Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Multi-Way

Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 17th November 2007, 06:41 AM   #1
ryoung is offline ryoung  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Default Speaker Design Critique

Hey guys, this is my second speaker project. First was a simple set of bookshelfs.

Design uses Seas Prestige H1189 tweeters, H1350 mid and 2x H1305 10" woofers. Port diameter/length hasnt been set yet, so I am open to suggestions!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg stillneedsaname.jpg (18.9 KB, 846 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 17th November 2007, 07:21 AM   #2
ttan98 is online now ttan98  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Melb
your cabinet design looks very nice, your speaker design looks very ambitious as well.

the scanspeak has a new top tweeter (I forget the model name) is very good, the peerless tweeter is very good too, model:***921(don't know the exact model no.). the latter is much cheaper, about US$75-90 each

midbass/range is crucial, depending on your musical taste, if you like vocal, paper bass cone is very good. I tend to opt for mid range with high efficiency, eg. 90dB min., with your design you will lose 1-3dB due to BSC. the actual eff. you will get is around 87-89dB, to me is too low still. Maybe you have a high powered amp. to drive it to give it the musical scale you need.

you are starting from scratch, it is risky, eg get x-over right, etc.

all the best.....

go to this site:

http://www.stereotimes.com/look for:

The Penaudio Serenade Loudspeaker

under archives, to get inspirations.
  Reply With Quote
Old 17th November 2007, 08:57 AM   #3
ryoung is offline ryoung  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Thanks, I already have the mid and tweeter, but havent bought the bass drivers yet. I would REALLY like to build with a set of scan speaks, but they are a little spendy for this project. Maybe next set!
  Reply With Quote
Old 17th November 2007, 09:08 AM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
May I suggest putting one bass driver on the opposite side, and running a short bar, or block of MDF on the inside to mechanically connect them. This would effectively cancel out the vibrations from the woofs. (It might cause you to have to widen the front baffle though, and you might not want to do that either.)

I would also put them as close to the floor as possible, which would help them get a slightly flatter response in the room, and get a tad more bass. It looks real good though. Good luck!

__________________
People in audio whom I admire.... Henry Kloss, Edgar Villchur, John Dahlquist, Bowers and Wilkins, Theil and Small, Don Keele, our own Nelson Pass. In short VISIONARIES.
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th November 2007, 04:50 AM   #5
ryoung is offline ryoung  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Ok, made a couple changes...

Opposing bass drivers on the bottom as shown in the picture. I haven't drawn any internal structure yet, but I'll probably put some in.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg speakerv2_1.jpg (29.3 KB, 572 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th November 2007, 04:50 AM   #6
ryoung is offline ryoung  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
And the other side...I can email the edrawings file if anyone wants to take a more detailed peek
Attached Images
File Type: jpg speakerv2_2.jpg (31.4 KB, 552 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th November 2007, 05:18 AM   #7
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Oh...I would put the port on the bottom also. Or you could do what B&W did, raise the whole thing, and down fire the port in to the floor with about 3" clearance. (802's) Sometimes there can be some lower midrange muck coming out of the port, and because of that, I would have it close to the floor, to reinforce the bass more, and away from the upper range speakers. Also use as wide, (which means longer) vent that you can get away with, and flare the ends inside and out to reduce chuffing sounds.

Yeah I'd love to see the file.
__________________
People in audio whom I admire.... Henry Kloss, Edgar Villchur, John Dahlquist, Bowers and Wilkins, Theil and Small, Don Keele, our own Nelson Pass. In short VISIONARIES.
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th November 2007, 05:49 AM   #8
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Western Sydney
I think using the H1350 just for mids is a bit of a waste, instead of the 2 woofers, why not just add another H1305?
as 2.5 way system I reckon it would be great...
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th November 2007, 07:16 AM   #9
ryoung is offline ryoung  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
It won't let me send you an email, what is your address?
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th November 2007, 06:37 PM   #10
ryoung is offline ryoung  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Pete, would using a Seas H1262 in place of the H1350 work "better" in your opinion? Saving the H1350s for a later project?
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Please critique my PCB design darkfenriz Class D 26 8th August 2008 03:49 PM
$2 speaker, $10 crossover (Can somebody critique my design?) Jim85IROC Multi-Way 9 10th March 2004 05:03 PM
Critique my USB DAC design MWP Digital Source 14 14th August 2003 07:00 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 05:32 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2